Silver Mine Motors

what is jcr and could you post thier web site link here? i'd like to get some info on those brackets.

careless so the 67-81 chevy camaro would fit right into a 280z? and that would focuss the light beam to, right?

this is the cost effective way i thought of. tell me what you guys think, or if anything is wrong with it. first i would buy this from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-Xenon-Conversion-Kit-H1-H3-H4-H7-H11-9004-9006-9007_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36476QQihZ018QQitemZ280177033549QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW than i would buy this and use the housing for the hid kit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-240Z-280Z-70-83-DIAMOND-CUT-HID-HEAD-LIGHT-72-77_W0QQitemZ200178460910QQihZ010QQcategoryZ33710QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting what do you guys think?

ya it depends on what you have in the front. i have the vented toyota kit in my car, and it was almost impossible to get the rears to lock up before the prop valve was installed.

also forgot to tell you that the 60 pound bumper was not on since i was on the way to the paint shop.

i crashed my z. it was a head on collision with a ford ranger. he was going about 40 miles per hour, and i was going about 50. we hit, both cars were toteld, i couldent even get out of my car becouse the doors wouldent open. the seat belts on those cars work well. once i got out (throught the hatch) i felt fine the car protected me perfectly. as long as you get hit and not go under, you should be ok.

i could probabley grind the welds off in a minute. i just went out for a pointless drive just to feel it again. it was definatley worth it.

i was also thinking of repainting my car since it was starting to look terible, but this weekend i took it to get wetsanded, polished, and waxed. now the car looks like i just painted it. a few days ago it had sun damage and now it looks like the picture above. best $150 i ever spent, got a comment on it just today at the gas station.

when something brakes on my car it's just an excuse for me to change it with something better. if my seats are ripping then i would put in some nice racing seat. i can't wait for my engine to blow so i can put in an LS. but if you don't enjoy driving it then thats a different story. i say get a catalitic converter and maybe adjust your temp sensor and air flow sensor. that should make it smell less. you've got a nice car so you should drive it and enjoy it. anyway here's a pic of my current z.

today i fixed my differencial once and for all. all i did was weld those two bolts that hold the diff to the mustache bar to the mustache bar. it was easy and it made the car feel soo much better that before! here's a pic. no matter how tight i made those two bolts the diff would always make that clunk everytime i let out the clutch. i think the problem was that the holes in the mustache bar were to big for the two bolts. they were probabley smaller when the car was brand new but after thirty years of driving they were probabley expanded a bit, and tha's were the noise was coming from. so if you have this problem you should consider this. also if i ever have to remove those bolts the welding can probabley be grinded of.

i got one of the lower air dams from msa and when it arrived at my door i chose not to install it. so it's sitting in my garage now just taking up space. i think it would fall of if i went over a speed bump or one of those parking blocks.

ya you only have to section the stuts if you lowered the car so much that it keeps bottoming out when you drive. so it depends how much you want to lower it. also thanks for the info buZy.

so how is the ride quality when you take out the top strut isolators and put in camber plates? since there is a lot less cushion. is it more louder, or more bumpy?

i use to have a 260z. i would say that your getting a good price but. my advise to you would be to look for a 280 or a 240. i have had two 260zs and they really don't sell. so if you plan or ever selling them then i would just forgett about it. how much do you think i got for my red 260z you see in the link below? i only got $9000 for it, and it was completeley restorded down to the last bolt. if it was a 240z it would have easily gone for $1500. the same thing happened with my first 260z. so if you plan on not ever selling it then you should get it. either than that it is a great car! just plan on getting 240z carbs becouse the 260z flat top carbs are notoriouse for not working well. you can read about that subject here ztherapy.com then click on "z car" to your left. hope that helps

i had the nexen n3000 215/45/17 tire on my car. it it hadles pretty good. i later switched to the falken 512 225/45/17 and it hadles exactley the same. i would say the nexens are better. when it comes to their n3000 series. the n2000 is probabley not to different. hope that helps

i sell tires and i just checked my book for some tires for you. here is what i found. the best tire i found was toyo proxes t1r 195/55/14 and that is a "ultra hight performance tire". you could also put toyo proxes tpt 195/70/14 or 195/60/14 nexen makes n2000 195/60/14, 205/60/14, 215/60/14, and 195/65/14 just some more to think about. i had 15 inch enkies and they rubed with 215 in the back. what you could do is shave the inside of the fenders. it's very easy to do, all you need is a grinder, and saftey glases. it wil take you about ten minets a side. after i did that i was able to put 225 and lower my car and it still has never rubed once. i say get the the toyo proxes tpt or the nitto n2000 215 if you want i can give a quote to.

why not put a 225? there are allote more tires you can choose from. plus it will handle better.

ok here is exactley what you have to d. i know becouse the same exact thing just happened to me so listen! you said you have the maxima calipers right. i know that in order to make then fit you have to put the right caliper on the left side and the left on the rightside. when you do this it causes the nipple to be lower than the caliper is designed to be at. so there is air getting stuck somewhere in your caliper, and it won't come out when you tri to bleed it becouse the nipple is no longer the highest piont on the caliper (since you have to switch them to get them to fit). now. this is how you fix the probllem: came you calipers off but leave the brake lines on. then hold the caliper with your hand in a different angle so that the nipple is sticking straight up in the air. this will make the air bubbles in the caliper go up into the nipple and come out when you bleed it in this position. belive me this will work. i had the same exact symtoms a few days ago and my brake barley worked. but after this method of bleeding it works great.make sure you are holding the caliper the right way. if you dont see air coming try changing the angle. tell us if it works.

so what's the update how does it handle? does the wheel vibrate on the freeway? anything else?

ya it is an easy swap, and no i don't think i've ever seen a four speed 280z. so it probabley was put in. you should change it if you ask me. you get betting mpg and the car is nicer to drive. pm if you need a five speed i've got one.

does anyone know the measurments of the spacer?

in the vented 300zx rotor kit since we have to use a spacer does it make the hub stick out more than it does when it's stock? becouse it says that it makes the wheel sit farther from the caliper. so does this mean that my wheels would stick out of the fender more then they do when my brakes are stock?

great post thanks and good job!!!!!!!!

so how does it handle? is there room for a wider tire in the front? how hard is it to park? congrats!!!!!!!!!

does the front wheel rub when you turn the wheel all the way?