TonyB

Is this the Nissan Borg-Warner T5 or the Nissan close ratio? a picture would reveal

How does the weatherstripping look? I could really use T tops and door seals

Nothing new mate?

Anyluck with T Top seals and Door seals yet?

Photos Coming Soon

Sorry for the hiatus. Let's try to catch you, ladies and gentlemen, up. Since we last spoke: 3 lights on dash and car died on the road new Stock Alternator and New Battery Replaced the Head Gasket 'shop saw minor leaks' Innovate LC1 and Autotimer Finally can tune this thing! New Stock Power Steering Rack Suspension overhaul New ball joints MSA Polyurethane bushings kit (w/o Control Arm Bushing) Tokico HPK255 Set ST Suspensions Swaybars 52105 Techno Toy Tuning Outer tie rod Techno Toy Tuning Front LC Arm Kit Techno Toy Tuning Steering Coupler I also have a build log of what has been done to the WZRD, what I plan to do, and other random notes HERE So, I had a local shop that builds drag and tuner cars do the majority of the work on my car. I think the AFR gauge may be wired incorrectly. It only reads a consistent 10.7 under warm up, idle, cruise, acceleration, boost, etc. Any ideas there? The same shop replaced the head gasket, checked all the vacuum lines, and tried tuning the car to get it running better. But the car just isn't snappy anymore, it's running rich and smells under heavy load, and there is a squirting noise around 4k rpm. I know weird... The next area to address is the transmission. I have a guy who can rebuild the transmission in Arizona. I found a Nissan T5 tranny going for one thousand. I asked about the condition and for photos. Would anyone know what a reasonable price for a rebuild and worn T5 would be? Here is the GUIDE I am following for the transmission. It suggests a standard strength clutch. Will this Exedy kit I have installed work with the T5? I have the Nissan close ratio in my ZX now. For a T5 swap, what else would I need? In terms of crossmember, differential, and driveshaft? Also, a tire shop said there was play on the axel shafts. I plan to have the shafts replaced with the transmission. Should I just get stock 280zx shafts or upgrade to 300zx shafts with the 300zx differential? I read somewhere it was possible.

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This is interesting. Lets get more pics of the engine

K i adjusted the fuel levels and we are grand now. Everything is running smooth and strong. I went down to smog. We are high on HC and CO on idle. Also at 2500rpm we are high on CO only.

K well I went ahead and rewired the pump using this method. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/86361-wiring-a-walbro-fuel-pump/ It feels a ton smoother and more responsive. Unfortunately it still bogs just before boost. Any ideas?

Thanks, I think I have figured out my issues with the fuel. The pump currently is wired into the stock wiring. I heard about some Z drivers using a headlight relay to get a solid 12v to the pump. How exactly does one wire this up?

I had the aeromotive fpr installed. We created bypass where the original fpr was and mounted the new fpr next to the fuel filter. I have the fpr set to around 35psi at idle with brand new stock injectors and a new walbro 255 pump. Everything seems good except just as boost comes on at lower rpms below 2500. When accelerating with these conditions, the car feels groggy. Like you give it gas, but it just doesn't want to go until I hit just around 2500. Any ideas? Complete MS parts list. I am still looking for an intercooler (either NPR or etc) and a ka24 throttle body. Megasquirt II v3.57 $435 Relay Board $99 Relay Cable $85 Wiring Bundle $46 Pullup Resistors $2 IAT Sensor $23 CLT Sensor $18 Trigger Wheel $28

Its not a matter how much horsepower. Its how efficient the ecu runs and works. Which is why I would say go MS. Plus there's a lot of expand ability on the MS. You can tune Nistune although it requires modifications.

pmed Im looking for any intercooler bits too for 280zx l28

No, I will be replacing it with a GM closed element. I want fresh sensors for the fresh ecu. I just ordered an Aeromotive a1000 too