Drax240z

I would guess combustion chamber sealing combined with thermal expansion would be the biggest hurdle... it isn't a layout that lends itself well to sealing.

Wow... $1700 for some flat top SU's?

Something along the same lines:

Not sure what helicoils cost in the states, but the kits are expensive up here... wouldn't it be cheaper to buy new (or used) lug nuts?

I don't know, I'm actually looking forward to the larger pictures. It looks better than I thought it would, maybe because of the use of black.

Some heavy duty (max 16000psi) hydraulic hose? Essentially built like a tire, including steel braids internally.

If it persists, maybe I can meet up with you and have a listen. Exhaust leaks are a fairly distinguishable sound once you hear a few.

You should be able to pinpoint the sound via a mechanics stethoscope or piece of vacuum hose to your ear... Much easier than trying to describe a sound over the internet. Injectors shouldn't change audible volume with temperature...

Don't even bother... find another "california" car and use this one for parts...

I'm only advocating more fuel at that point because of the sawtooth, which depending on the dyno software smoothing may be hiding detonation. I've also only said that 11.5:1 is a safe STARTING point. One thing I've found dyno tuning turbo cars, is that the power difference between 11:1 and 13:1 is pretty small, when compared with the other variables. (ie: timing, boost pressure) Less fuel after the torque peak is also consistent with my experience. I'm still a bit surprised at the outright number, however the curve looks as I'd expect. The dyno setup could explain the low peak numbers. (Improperly entered ramp rates, inertial, ambient temps, etc... whatever that particular dyno uses for user inputs)

Appears lower than I'd expect, but the whole point of using the dyno is to make some changes and see how it improves things. Not sure how much smoothing is going on, but the sawtooth at 5700rpm combined with the 12.5:1 AFR would worry me a little, I'd want to see a bit more fuel from 5000-6000rpm, and maybe a touch less at 6400. 11.5:1 is a decent (safe) starting point. How big is your intercooler inlet/outlet and piping?

Heh, had some "interesting" times in the back of a Pajero once! Very versatile vehicle.

Can I suggest that one of the first things you do when you get the car back, is line up a professional photographer, and get some high quality shots. It's way better to take those shots when everything is "new" than later on, and you'll want those high quality shots down the road for magazines, etc. A few hundred bucks spent (which isn't much at this point) will immortalize your Z for eternity.

Norm's 12sec SU Z was the one with the sandpaper'd pistons as I recall, it's been an awful long time since I was on zcar.com... somewhere around March 2000.

... I'm not sure you'll get away with driving that anywhere...

Awesome! Glad to have you "back" Scottie!

Big pipe wrench... has worked for me every time. You probably want to put in new gland nuts afterward regardless!

We have some basic requirements on this site for posting in clear, concise sentences using punctuation. I do believe you know those rules, but in case you don't... Have a re-read of the rules before your next post.

That would be an interesting plenum setup for an EFI system as well...

Argh, post the pics already!

1) Talk to machine shop. Describe the job. 2) Get quote for said job. 3) Pay in advance for said job. 4) Drop off control arms with spindle pins. 5) Wait 3 days. 6) Go pick up parts and try to placate a very bewildered machinist. It worked for me!

The torque plate is used when machining the bores, so that they can be fully clamped via head bolts while machining. (simulating the head in place) It's a jig, not part of the engine.

Wow, same as me. Are you running modified fuel pressure? I didn't think 440's would flow enough for that kind of power... how were your AFR's at the top end?