Drax240z

It's on their website, but IIRC its about $2200-$2500 per set, depending on options.

Very neat to see, not really my cup of tea, but it's an interesting piece of Datsun history all the same.

The only instance I will not sell to someone, is when it is something that I think will get them killed. I had a set of wheels with throw away tires on them for sale, and a young kid who didn't have the money for new rubber wanted them for his car. He was going to put them on as is, and I couldn't persuade him otherwise. No dice... Not in the rainy fall up here anyway. I've had friends refuse to sell high end sport bikes in similar instances. Sometimes you just don't want that on your conscience.

Another freebie I've been enjoying lately: http://www.travian.us/

I think we have a winner, thanks all for your comments and ideas! This looks most in line with what I was looking for however.

BUMP. Did you ever use these urethane engine mounts? Feedback?

I've got a perfect solution for you. Take a few statistics classes.

For free: http://www.quakelive.com Quake, online, free, and still a lot of fun.

I think if you build it, build it well, and offer it at a fair price you'll do well with it. I would tend towards a mount style where even if the bushing were to fail, there is still a mechanical lock that prevents the diff nose from slapping around too much.

I'm having a good laugh, if it's any consolation. Don't worry about it, it's funny. You "meant" to say that. Thanks for the laugh!

Evan, forgive me for not following closer, but what engine are we talking about? KA? SR? Dispalcement?

I did the same, using stainless bolts.

16" look the best I beleive, but with limited tire choices 17" are a good compromise I think. 245/40R17's would be a good tire choice, keeping the tire diameter down.

Thanks, that's an option if all else fails for me. I'm looking for a "factory" finish in the end, and would like something molded.

Some of the best laughs of my life came from RPG's and a group of good friends. We don't get together as a group more than once every few years anymore (too many of us, too spread out) but when we do, we usually do something similarly geeky, and laugh ourselves to tears for hours upon hours. Those that write it off untried really don't know what they're missing, if you get the right group of friends together. I guess for our group it's become much more of a social activity than anything else... then again, we've been at it for about 18 years!

I'm no bodyman, so don't take this as gospel. It's part of my collection of knowledge from reading/trying it a few times, and things that 1st timers often miss. - Bondo is invented to be wasted. Use it over a much larger area than you think you need to fix a flaw. When you sand you'll blend it much nicer. - Buy a long board, it will make the surfaces look much better than with a small sander/DA. - Buy some glazing putty and use it, it's great stuff for those final deep scratches that aren't big enough to bondo. - Before you shoot primer, I'd finish with 320grit on a DA, or 400grit prior to paint. - For wet sanding, start with 1500 grit, move to 2000 grit, and use cutting compound on a power buffer after that. (then polishing compound, then a protectant/wax) Bodywork is time consuming, but much more so for the novice when you don't know the basics, it takes a lot longer to achieve mediocrity without those basics.

Anyone have some suggestions? I want to add the 3rd brake light to my 240z, and I'd like just a narrow strip (1/2" max) about 6" long or so. Either going to put it inside at the top of the hatch glass, or in my rear spoiler. Looking for something robust, off the shelf (new) and reasonably priced...

[MODERATOR HAT] Ok guys, I've taken this 35+ page thread down to 11 pages, and I am not quite done yet. I have tried to keep all relevant information in this thread, but mistakes may have been made. 893 of 1321 posts were deleted, it took just over 2 hours to read the entire thread and delete those posts... For the remainder of this thread, anything that isn't factual, or photographical will be moderated upon. If someone asks a question at this point that has been covered previously, it may also get squashed. [/MODERATOR HAT]

Great service so far, got a UPS email from Kim about 4 hours after sending him the cash via paypal, with all the tracking numbers, etc. Very promising. I went with RB-R's in Royal Gunmetal. Made a list of some tire options earlier too, all trying to keep the diameter down while filling out the flares and giving the rims the tires they deserve. 245/40R17 = 24.7" 255/40R17 = 25.0" 275/40R17 = 25.7" 295/35R17 = 25.1" The 295's seem a bit wide for a 9.5" wheel, so I will probably end up ordering 245/40R17 front, and 255/40R17 rear... still pondering the 295's. Has anyone else tried the 295/35R17?

Did up until my first child was born a month and a half ago...

Do some wetsanding and I bet you'll be pretty happy with the final results of the finish, barring any bodywork issues below the paint layer.

Dual 2"'s are smaller than a 3" single, so I think you'll be fine. Its a lot of work to get 2 matching tailpipes, but I think I'm going to do it too at some point.

Thoughts yes, decisions no.

http://www.vanisledatsun.com/buysell.php Engine close to home...

How's it sound madkaw? Interesting layout, the first I've seen like that on an L.