Drax240z

OK lost my first post. Lots of other guys here with more knowledge, but here is one that I had my hands in: L31 LD28 crank 240z rods KA pistons N42 head - minor cleanup of ports, nothing more. Shadbolt M445 cam Weber DCOE 40 - 36mm chokes IIRC 210rwhp - very linear, balanced, fast feeling car. Fairly mild buildup, done on a budget, nothing too exotic at all.

Could have been water in the gasket channel, which froze, expanded and put stress on the side of the glass? Just a guess.

As much as I respect Grumpy's opinion, I must mention that the MSD ignition boxes I had seen for the past 2-3 years really seemed to be problematic. I have a 6A I use on my own car and have never had issues with it, but I believe the number was 4 MSD boxes with failures diagnosed during dyno sessions at my shop. I don't know about the quality of any of their other products, but I am personally quite wary of their ignition boxes. You mileage may vary...

One!

Actually for me the worst part was the "no fluids after 7am" and the associated dehydrated condition. Awful. The anesthetic hangover was pretty awful too though. I managed to make it though without any pain killers.

Hey that's my car! Here are some more.

Glad you are out too, sounds like quite a procedure! I'm recovering from surgery too at the moment, lots of time reading hybridz and not a lot of time working on stuff unfortunately... wish I could do both! Hope you have a speedy recovery, and if you are looking for something to do there are lots of great older threads here worth reading.

Those open webs sure demonstrate the issue very well. (I think that is what I was trying to write in my last post) I actually added a SS heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the turbo inducer as well. There are tapped bosses in place on the exhaust manifold that can easily be used for that. It was pretty basic, just 1 bend IIRC.

Looks great man! Just a question, do you normally run an intake heat shield? After looking at that last photo (good only open web manifold) it reminded me just how close those ports are... you don't really notice with a webbed manifold.

Any updates on your head MONZTER?

Sidewall stiffness directly affects the footprint size, so I can't see that playing a huge role. Distribution of pressure in the tire is going to be a non-factor. The biggest issue as far as accuracy goes that I see, is that by using 2 straight edges you are assuming the contact patch is flat sided. There will be error induced there, as well as if you don't have those straight edges parallel when you make your measurement you will be inducing error. Very cool video none the less!

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A nice big flash will take you far!! Two are even better.

Engine: L28ET Stock F54 Bottom End, N42 with stock turbo cam, 8.3:1CR Turbo: Stock T3 Intake: 60mm TB with N42 Intake EFI: 440cc/min injectors, SDS EM-3E, Walbro GL392, Stock fuel tank with sump added Intercooler: "Medium" NPR Downpipe and Exhaust: 2.5" DP to 3" Exhaust. All mandrel bent. This engine setup made 232rwhp, 281ft-lbs at 6psi. (limited by turbo issues) Positive boost pressure ~2500rpm, fell on its face at about 5800rpm. New engine underway, with bigger turbo.

Looks great... so did you pull the front cover and check the stroke yet, or did I miss that? You really need to know, and it's not a big deal from where you are at...

I'd say $250-$500 for a complete engine is fair. Maybe a little extra for a tranny, but not much.

As soon as I pulled the crank out I realized that there was nothing there that was raising any eyebrows, it wasn't until I couldn't find the bottom end problem that I looked at the head. One of my valve clearances was about 0.080", wasn't tightened enough and let go at an autocross... It was a GOOD lesson... Too much listening to other people's diagnosis, and not enough time formulating my own.

Funny I didn't notice mine was valves until the crank was on the floor. "While I was at it" set in at that point though.

Paul, I will do that! Been down that way a few times, it always seems to be an ungodly hour when I hit Portland though. (been there 4 times, never seen it!) I'm using a Nikon D200, which has served me well. It's all in the glass though, not the body.

*kick* You can clearly see in your photo that the bleeder is down, you have your calipers mixed R for L. Trust me, this setup works fine on low cars.

Agreed, I thought I threw something in the bottom end once and it was a sloppy rocker.

Pure cool... on a limo anyway. Nice idea none the less!

I thought I should probably throw this shot in this thread as well, for those of you interested in a relative size comparison:

There are thousands of 2 post hoists in use around the world with a similar mounting system... and no bracing to walls, ceilings, witches, or even very, very small rocks.