Drax240z

We talked about this somewhere here before, Tim was looking at buying from them. All I can say is I know of the guy that is running the show and he's pretty well reputed in my circles. Aux knows him too actually. It's a great way to go.

I'm 2 for 3 with these seals, and the one was an engine that hadn't had the bottom end examined, so nothing conclusive on that one. The other 2 cars seems quite fine though!

Door alignment is quite an art... expect to spend an hour per door getting them right! Edit: I've found the Nissan seals work quite well and allow the doors to close pretty well too.

A good friend and customer of mine has been running a Subaru Viscous R160 behind his L28 (~170-190rwhp) and behind his 3.1L (~210rwhp) for 4 years of autocross and street duty with no issues whatsoever. Gary Savage ran a R160 from a subie in his VG30ET powered 510 for hill climbs, autoX, etc. with years of success and close to 300rwhp. (and I would expect higher torque than 300ft-lbs) I'm pretty convinced that the weak link in all the R series diffs is the spider gears. The LSD's seem very robust in all cases. With that said, I can get a subie diff cheap, but I'm too chicken to put an R160 in my turbo car in fear that it might be wasted money. I would probably use an R180 however with gear LSD... lifetime guarentee, right?

LOL, me too. That's great!

I'm actively trying not to read it, but there are many misleading subject titles regarding these topics so I find myself opening them without intending to actually read them.

Yeah completely sick of it here too... I'm going to work on my Z!

I think Johnc has established for you that these are the same thing, same damping, different sticker.... I can't see why it matters!

So the buyer 11 months later is pissed because they 'are shot'. To me that is something you only have a right to claim immediately on receiving the item, not 11 months later. As a business owner I would not honour a return of that nature. The scratches on the paint are completely inconsequential, and a reality of installing strut cartridges in ANY housing. Regardless of their being oil or not. One other note, have you tested the struts in different damping positions? If the selector is inbetween positions you'll get some funky results.

I don't see you making 225hp with the stock cam and SU's. A hot 2.8L setup with SU's and lots of other performance work done will probably be in the 170rwhp area. Add another 30-40hp to the top end with a well tuned set of triples. (only if you've allready done cam, exhaust, ignition, etc) Tack on another 20-25hp or so if you are running a 3.1L setup. Rules of thumb. Actual dyno results vary A LOT from dyno to dyno, and engine to engine. Datsunlover: do yourself a big favor and get a cam. Check out Colt Cams in Vancouver, and order a "Shadbolt M445" grind and you won't be dissapointed at all.

Well here is my philosophy. I built the engine for my car as a street/autoX setup. The highest grade gasoline I have readily available (ie: pump gas) is 94 octane. My Z also happens to be my daily driver, so the ability to get 94 octane whenever (or wherever) I need it is important. So I choose to build my car around that limitation. Of course, being a daily driver the cost of the gasoline is a factor too. Regular (87octane) at 86cents/liter or supreme (94octane) at $1/liter. I could run C-16 at ~$3.50/liter or so. I really believe that for a street car, you should build it to run on pump gas. If it is a track car, then fine, use race gas. If you have the ability (like scottie does) to run multiple levels of boost/timing depending on your fuel, that is even better. Now if we are talking 600rwhp drag cars... run frickin' race gas!!!! Scottie is totally right here. No point in building a $6000 engine to get you in the 11's and cheap out on the gas.

If I'm not mistaken the ford 2.3L turbo setups used a .48AR T3. (Merkur, mustang, etc.)

Does not compute to me either... Mike I have a refreshed P90 with less than 7000miles on it. 5 angle valve job, slight port clean up. I'd be willing to send it to you but the shipping might be a bear.

On Canadian turbo cars not all 87-89 turbos came with clutch type LSD's, it was an option. All the ones I've ever come across in a junk yard up here end up being open diffs. I know of a few clutch LSD's that have come from those cars though. No wonder you US guys have so many of those diffs! I've run across 1 in 5 years up here...

And I thought this post was going to be about some kind of implant or prosthetic. Congrats Mike! Got any updated pictures to share?

Well I am by no means in the 400hp area, but I have run both a 7.4:1 and a 8.3:1 setup back to back. (the rest was the same essentially) I really like the 8.3:1 setup for daily driving, autocross, etc. It really is a huge difference in power delivery and feels much faster even though the potential peak power is less. If you are looking for big dyno number, or are racing an a manner that you can keep your engine in a narrow powerband, then the low CR setup will be fine. If you want all around drivability and area under the curve, and are willing to sacrifice that peak HP number, than the 8.5:1 setup would be my choice. Of course at higher CR's the importance of a good intercooler, fuel control, timing control, fuel delivery, etc. plays a larger role.

Nokian Hakkapillita Q's are all you need in the snow... However, if you drive your 70 240z in the snow (and salt) this winter in northern Minnesota, you'd better start looking for a new car for the 455 transplant, because your 240z will have disintegrated by the end of the snowy season.

Looks good to me, but "you get what you pay for" comes to mind... You can always try to ebay it again if you get it and it sucks.

Parking brake adjustments have only ever worked for me when all rear brake components are brand new. In 99% of Z's, you can't adjust the rear brakes very well this way. I have the same issue when my drums are adjusted too tightly, too much rear brake bias. Just loosen them up until you find your sweet spot. Of course, after a few hard stops that sweet spot will change again.

CFD is only half the battle, wave theory and wave propigation is very important as well. I'd be tempted to do something like this in multiple pieces, out of composite...

What did you set the valve clearence to?

Nice idea and good modelling. Now before you go to production you should verse yourself in intake design theory and do some CFD to see how she flows!

I think I became stupider by watching this.

You know, I like to keep origional makes of engines and cars together too, not because it's sacriligious to do anything else, but I love popping the hood and having people have no idea that it isn't the stock engine in the car.