Drax240z

I don't have a part number on it... try looking through the flex-a-lite product line, as their oil coolers are made by Long IIRC.

Er, you can mandrel bend Ti tubing. You can even buy prebent mandrel sections. (http://www.burnsstainless.com/TitaniumTube/titaniumtube.html) Like Terry, I've had Ti motorbike exhaust headers in my hand before, and they are certainly lightweight and have mandrel bends. The pie-cut method of bends (as seen in the photos of the V8TT car) are just a JDM aesthetic fad... or tradition if you prefer.

Grab a magnaflow 3" and you are set. No necking down, and guarenteed for life. (even their aluminized mufflers have a lifetime guarentee, and have SS interiors)

I'm using a Long oil coller, with AN-10 lines to it. It is about 8" x 10" frontal area, and thin enough to fit between my IC and rad no problem. Cost for these ones new is just over $100can. (they may be labelled as Dana in the US)

As far as I know BLKMGK is still in good standing and is not here of his own accord. The amount of people that have been 'booted' from here in the past 4 years can be counted on 1 hand...

It depends on area of course, but up here that car would go for (being a rust free california car) about $4k US.

It's about time you showed that thing off! Now we just have to convince Pete, Terry, Dan, TimZ, and a bunch more to do the same! Looking really slick Tim. I love how straight that body is.

Damn that looks good Rick. It's really tough not to have 'clutter' with a EFi turbo engine because there is a lot going on. I really like your strut tower bar a lot. Must be nice to have a lift in your garage!

Austin, I am using the stock heat shield under the intake. (hard to see in the pics) I also made up a 304 stainless steel heatshield around the compressor side of the turbo, extending the length of the exhaust manifold. Hey Grayzee, yeah it's come a long way since then. Considering that 2.5+ years of the time since you last saw me was spent getting my degree, I've been busy! Juan the overflow bottle (not OEM) is sitting on the frame rail, next to the rad. (right at the end of the overflow hose) I have a MSR spun aluminum fuel bottle to use there. $8, super lightweight, won't melt, and holds 1L. Thanks all.

240hoke I must give credit where it is due, I saw your engine bay and said "oh hell yeah!" and it was the inspiration for powdercoating the manifold wrinkle black. Thanks! The strut tower bar I made out of 316SS (I had it available) it is 2 pieces of 1/2" tubing TIG welded together and bent. End plates are TIG welded 1/8" 316SS. I used a 1/8" aluminum spacer on the throttle body and spun it 180* off how most people seem to like theirs. Reason being is that I was going to get rid of the stock linkage and go with a cable anyway, and it just fit better this way. Throttle cable bracket is nothing special... a 4:00am special the night before I was hoping to drive the car. I went out and took some more pics of the car today too. Put a camera in my hands an I don't stop taking pictures... too bad I have to give the camera back to the owner tonight! I might also point out to those of you with MUCH nicer cars than I (Terry, Pete, Dan, Tim, Rick, Tim2, etc. I AM talking about you guys) you should take some photos of your cars and put together a post and let some of us drool over your artwork!

Well thanks guys.. the only thing I have payed to have done for me on this whole car is the powdercoating, and it wasn't done as well as I would have liked. I did my own everything else. (IC pipes, intercooler mods, intake, engine, interior, paint, etc) Plug wires are MSD 8mm universal kit. I cut them to a custom length and decided to go around the front of the engine instead of over the top. The only drag strips on the island are 1/8 and 1/10 mile. $50 ferry costs each way to get to the mainland to hit a 1/4 mile strip. It's coming eventually, but right now I'd rather spend that $100 on stuff like rubber for me tires.

My engine bay is looking better all the time... Of course, this shot is from the 'good' side of the engine bay.

Pyro, I was under the impression that you needed the HKS gasket for the stroker, as the felpro and nissan gaskets don't have a large enough bore size for the 89mm pistons to clear though. (I believe they are 87mm bore, while the HKS unit is 91mm bore) Incorrect impression maybe? Looks like this guy is going to stick with the stock exhaust manifold to save some $$$. Not sure what to think about that!

Nice! I love the idea of putting a spherical bearing right into the TC rod mount. Very well executed!

I put my MSD box in the drivers side windshield cowl... hidden and out of the way. (and easy to hide the wires to it) Seems to be working well for me. Just make sure it is out of the way of the wiper linkage.

A bit more info first guys... the exhaust on this car (a customers car, some of you missed that point) is a 2.5", fairly unrestrictive exhaust, yet still has streetable noise levels. I know the stock exhaust manifold flows pretty well. This guy has been running his 2.8 setup with the stock manifold for the past 2 years and is consitantly 1st in class and often FTD. Competition is getting more stiff and he's starting to lose a bit of ground when it comes to the faster courses, hence the 3.1L swap. That and he was given the keys to a certain turbo car (ahem) and now he wants more power. (damn is that car ever good for business!) The reason for the N42 head is that he had one that had been ported and polished and was ready to go. Purely $$$ savings on that one. Also the higher compression attainable (at a reasonable deck height) with the N42 will likely make up for any other shortcomings. This setup will yield about .3-.4 more compression points than a similar P90 setup. Also the 2mm headgasket should unshroud the valves a bit more, aiding flow ever so slightly... johnc (or anyone else) do you have a picture of the nissan comp header ferreted away that you could post? Thanks for all the info and keep it coming guys!

Modern Motrosports does make S130 stuff too, Ross had them on his own car before it was stolen.

5 minutes? All Scottie needs is a shade over 10 seconds!

Well we're building up a 3.1L here for a customer. Specs are as follows: - 240z rods, diesel crank, N42 head, 2mm headgasket, .5mm flycut. ~9.7-- 10.0:1 compression, balanced. - .460/280 Cam, performance valve springs (oops, typo before) - Triple 40mm webers, 36mm chokes - 3.9:1 diff ratio Car is a weekend warrior, the engine is being built specifically for autoX. The problem is right now he is running a stock exhaust manifold, as he found that he lost too much low end with a header on the 2.8L engine. (8.6:1 compression, 32mm chokes, same cam as above) What I am wondering is if anyone here has played around with manifolds/headers on a 3.1L and noted the differences in performance. I'm really thinking this cast manifold is going to be waaaaay too restrictive with the displacement bump and the bigger chokes, and probably a higher redline as well. Looking for some facts to confirm my beliefs.

With an Oxy-acetolene background, and if speed isn't important at all to you, I'd be looking at TIG welders exclusively I think. The Miller Syncrowave 250 (with water cooling) is what I am considering for myself in a similar situation as you. A miller dealer is close if you ever need repairs. My trusty miller 110V mig at the shop has been a real gem. I have never used ESAB or HPT before so it's tough to comment. My first TIG was a Lincoln square wave 335, and it was super! (albeit a high end TIG at the time, so it had a lot of features) I have a lincoln mig (SP-135+)at home as well that has worked well for me for years. Not a lot of info to go on as I haven't used the specific machines you are looking at. I've been pleased with all the Millers, Lincolns and Hobarts I've used however.

I'm pretty certain if you remove the spring perch and try to put the threaded collar resting on the old perch it will sit way too high and effectively reduce your suspension travel, and potentially damage your collar. Ross includes the weld on perches with the kit which makes it really easy. It would be well worth your while to use them, even if you aren't planning on sectioning your struts.

Hobart makes a really solid product, comparable to Miller or Lincoln for build quality and performance in my experience.

Cool Rick... I'm eagerly waiting to hear how they work for you.

Just a bit of difference! 8)

Yeah I should mention than in the rear of my car especially, once dropped I picked up a lot of negative camber, and used the offset bushing method to dial it out. I also would highly recommend the ball & socket type TC rod bushing (like G-machine) over urethane given the experienced with broken TC rods using pure urethane mounts. The ball & socket style won't bind like the urethane can.