Drax240z

Why is there no IC? Have you seen the engine bay of a 510? How about with an inline 6 in it? NO ROOM! Even the VG30 Turbo swap we're doing here required some fancy metalwrok to get a reasonable IC installed without modifying the cars appearance, and it's a lot shorter than the L6!

Any chance you guys can post a snippit of that article for those of us that don't have sportZ?

In Norm's defense, we are talking about well over 1000 drag strip runs in his cars lifetime, and he's bound to break a few things regardless of how hard or nice he drives after 1000 runs. I'd be very interested in seeing some dyno data too.

This is quite a statement, and I just can't agree entirely. I have drive a 4bbl car that was well setup, and I have had many SU cars, and customers cars to draw this view on. Carbs just plain and simple, don't get any easier than SU's. I had a set on a daily driven Z for 2.5 years, and drivability was excellent. Milage was in the area of 20mpg city and 25mpg highway. Started right away every time with the choke on when needed. (this might be a negative for some, but seriously how hard is it to use a manual choke?) The only thing I would agree that the 4bbl setup had over the SU's was top end airflow, and possibly the gas milage because I hadn't driven the 4bbl car enough to know what kind of milage it got. After adding up all the parts you need for a 4bbl conversion, a set of Z therapy SU's are about the same price. My only recommendation is this. If you know Holley carbs, go ahead and use it. If you know SU's, use them. If you don't know either, the SU's are much easier to tune with only a couple specialty tools that combined cost about $50. Or just go with triples and let the car sing.

Another pan you guys might want to consider is the Diesel Maxima pan. It is a standard L-series oil pan with 2 sump extensions, 1 on each side, welded on. It will not work in a stock L28ET however, as the sump extensions will hit the stock downpipe. I'd say it probably adds 2-3 liters to the sump capacity. Oh yeah, you'll need to modify your oil pickup tube as well.

A newer pic of my engine bay... getting cleaner all the time.

Sure man, I can set you up with some struts. Shoot me an email at the address listed on the 2G Racing website and I'll get in touch with you via email.

F=150, R=225 is probably going to be a bit mushy in the front end... I'd try something in the area of F=175, R=200 or F=200, R=225 for dual duty autocross/street. Make sure you have some decent dampers too. 300/350 is pretty crazy for a car that see's much street time.

Turbos can be just a reliable as any SBC buildup... given that you aren't trying to run 14psi without an intercooler or adequate fueling. I'm beginning to think like John, what is up with all you turbo guys blowing up engines? Just because you can run more boost, doesn't mean you should!

I'd stick to air-air on a fairly stock setup. Do a search for "NPR Intercooler" in the turbo forum and I think you'll find out a lot.

3" won't work off a stock T3 housing without some kind of diffuser design, hence the reason the 2.5" downpipes are popular. I looked into making a 3" diffuser type downpipe and it's a good whack more expensive to make. Personally I'd go with 2 45 bends over 2 90 bends anyday...

Very nice John, I hadn't seen these before! I love the 42lb weight savings on the rear hatch especially.

I think they are pretty respectable for the car actually. A bit more than I expected.

John, I am not sure I can offer a lot of help here, but I seem to have a similar problem plauging my car. Basically everything in my car is new or has been changed with the miss still existing... the only things I really suspect are: 1) TPS 2) FPR I have a fuel pressure gauge, and from what I can tell the miss does not correspond to fuel pressure changes of any type. I am sure that it is not a lean/rich miss either as I've played out that scenario to death with the SDS mixture meter. Check the TPS setup, swap it if you have a known good spare, and then I'd move on to fuel pressure/FPR if that doesn't solve it. Not much concrete to go on I know... I'm interested in hearing your results though! (I should do this for myself too, but don't have a spare TPS at present and refuse to buy a non-returnable electical part on a whim, as I've never been able to have the TPS replicate anything like this while not driving)

Just use a lighter gas... like Hydrogen.

I can't recommend enough that you stay with the SU's.

Yes that is a transaxle behind it.

The end tanks on the first one you posted are FAR superior... Don't even bother with #2.

Do you have a 2.5" exhaust all the way back? It seems others (I haven't tried this myself... yet) have got noticeable gains from going with a 3" mandrel bent system over a 2.5" system on the turbo cars. Scottie-GNZ keeps calling it the "best bang for your buck mod you can do to a turbo L-series" and I'm inclined to believe him. I love that torque curve. I agree it looks like you need some more top end breathing though.

Looks cool, and I notice it's aluminum too. Maybe my concerns are unfounded. Terry, how long have you had this installed and how do you like it?

Jeff, I don't think anyone said it can't be done... I still think that 500rwhp is cheaper out of an RB than a L-series though. I was singled out at the start of this thread, so I felt I needed to reply. I have a pretty healthy concept of what the L-series is capable of, following tim's, james, scottie, scotty, doug, donna, and even jeff's builds over the years on zcar.com (before there was a hybridz) and here... I'm not sure I need a lecture on what the L-series is capable of. I know of 2? maybe 3 L-series engines (other than the electomotive engines) producing over 500rwhp... How many RB's are out there doing it? Not trying to say the RB is better... well, maybe I am. But I am running an L-series turbo in my own car now for a reason!

I've had a set of the AZC adjustable sets in my hands, and they are very nicely made indeed. Nice attention to detail, good fit and finish... My only complaint is they came with a couple quality aurora road ends for non-critical parts (sway bar links) and cheap tawian rod ends for the critical parts. (inboard pivot, TC-rod pivot) A nice package none the less... though obviously a part that would be for race only applications.

"serves the same function" and "experiences the same loads" are two distinctly different things. The one piece part you speak of that Terry did, do you have any pics of that? Sounds super-neato-cool to me. I always thought there was a lot going on in that area of the Z, would be nice to simplify it.

More pics sent to me by Tony...

Hrm. Looks awesome. I wonder what kind of fatigue testing he's done though, replacing a spring steel part with something made from aluminum doesn't strike me as prudent. Then again, it just depends on the loads present, if the aluminum is sufficiently strong the fatigue will not be a factor. Very interesting to see.