Drax240z

Word for the wise: Don't buy performance products from MSA! CFDF in 240mm should be available and easy to find for under $300US.

http://www.fsae.com

I really hate it.

Man I hate it when people post for no good reason.

I think Pete needs another project car to occupy his time...

Good info katman. One thing to add about cages that I see a lot of them missing: A proper cage has all (or as many as possible) of the bars ending on a node. I see tons of cages where bars end ~2" away from a major node. This is not at all optimal. You should be able to draw a line down the axis of ever bar going to a node and have them intersect at a point in the center of the node. It is more difficult to fabricate, however, think of it as 'free' stiffness and strength without adding weight.

I knew it!

Well my first suggestion is to be a bit more descriptive when you ask a question. I assumed a few things like we were talking high pressure here. First if your pump only draws 3A max, you are right 10AWG is big. (I personally use 10AWG with my Walbro high pressure pump though) 14AWG should be fine for your application. Still, be sure you are getting a good clean ground. Also I would still recommend using a relay if there allready isn't one installed. (I can't remember on the 74 if there is one or not) It won't hurt to let the pump run for a few seconds while the car isn't running.

Replace the posative wire with a 10AWG, use a 10AWG ground as well and make sure it is a really GOOD, clean ground. That should solve your problems. A relay is a must.

The biggest problem I see with most performance clutch setups is break in. If you expect your clutch to last with high power levels, then a properly surfaced flywheel is a must, and also is a good break in period, CF recommends 500miles, of moderate city driving. No clutch drops, no racing. In your case Bastaad I'd somewhat suspect that a leaky rear main seal has led your clutch down the path of destruction. Oil and clutch friction surfaces don't mix well...

I fit 2.25" piping over my fan pulley no problem on one setup. Mechanical fan. No shroud. Nothing special... there is room without the shroud. (and I expect with it too) Austin's engine bay has been giving me inspiration for quite some time. After seeing that I did not hesitate to wrinkle black powdercoat my intake and valve cover, I was on the fence for a while! I've probably spent about $400 on plumbing for my $225 intercooler. I'm glad it's a good cooler, but honestly I could have spent an extra $200 on the cooler and got a spearco core, made my own tanks, and probably saved $200 on plumbing.

Naw, gravity is just stronger where he stands.

I'd be pretty happy with 78% on anything in my classes! I remember my first term of 3rd year, out of 6 classes my best grade after the midterm was 48%. Man was I ever worried... I think I ended that term with nothing worse than a B-... and let me tell you, it wasn't because I was working harder after the midterm! Prof's like to scare you a bit to make life interesting.

Er goldfish, spring rate is inversely related to the number of active coils present in the spring. Less active coils = higher overall spring rates all else being equal. k=(Gd^4)/(8*D^3*N) Where: k = spring rate G = materials shear modulus d = wire diameter D = spring coil diameter (centerline) N - number of active coils As you can see if you change N from 6 to 3, you are going to end up with 2 times the beginning spring rate.

Likely the $21 is duty applied at the border...

I like the g-machine/rubber bushing combo. The g-machine bushings allow for articulation of the TC rod, and don't deflect under braking, while the rubber on the other side does a decent job in that particular setup. The real problem with the urethane setup is that the TC rod has bending moments applied due to the lack of ability of the urethane bushings to allow the TC rod to move up and down. The g-machine solution adresses that nicely.

Titty squeezer of the Toecutters MC.

I think it would be a neat swap too. An early Z would haul butt with one of these. Granted bang for the buck, a SBC or L6 Turbo is a cheaper way to get 300hp. But I'd still be interested in the Titan V8 swap. I'm not advocating keeping it all Nissan, but I like it when people pop the hood and ask "so what did you do?" Or just walk on not even noticing that something is odd...

OK, 195 45 and 195 55 will be quite small. I like 15" wheels on a Z for overall look, performance, tire selection and handling. I think they are the best all around choice, but I'd prefer 16's on my car. Look at the Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 or Ecsta MX as tire options as well. They are cheap and have very good reviews. (reasonable grip and wear too) 225/60R14's will be very close in overall diameter to your old 15's, but they need a fairly wide wheel. I think you are also going to have trouble finding a wide variety of 14" rubber and for that reason more than any other I would stick with 15's...

I'm interested in knowing how this goes Scott, keep us updated!

The one you link doesn't look too bad to me, but there are a lot of crappy tank designs on ebay IMHO. Lots of people are buying Spearco cores and making really cheap & easy end tanks that are less than optimal. I would look for symmetry regarding the placement of the inlet in relation to the core, like the one you posted. Also no 90* for the air to try to turn. A tall core with inlet and outlet on top will often use only 50% of the core area or less, unless then end tanks are well designed. (Such as with the NPR, it has inlet and outlet up high, but with moulded end tanks that do a nice job of distributing the air across the entire core) The problem is that ebay is often the place to buy & sell cheap stuff, and a properly made end tank costs $$$. I'd say more than half the people buying intercoolers really don't know what they are looking at, they just want big.

Personally I plan on running 8's for max wheel clearance.

Crapola, that's sweet.

Yikes, how the?!? Well I guess I know.

How about: Pretty Incredible Girth