Georgia Flash

I haven't tried the heat on it because I do not have a way of doing so I need to invest in a simple little propane torch and melt that sucker!

It took less than an hour to pull the dash in my 75. Now putting it back in will probably be another story.

Pull out your heater and ducting and look under the dash where the heater hooks up to the outside venting for fresh air. I found rust in that location. Also my spare tire well was rusted completely through. You could see the fuel tank underneath.

I have been trying to figure out how to get the two threaded studs out of the aluminum diff cover. I have the cover off the car and so far I can not budge the studs! This did not surprise me because I could not ever get the fill plug or the drain plug out of the cover either. It is almost as if everything has been welded together. I tried putting two nuts on the stud and then clamped the cover in vise and placed a wrench on the inner nut. I broke one side of the wrench completely off The piece flew around my shop and almost hit me in the face. I need to get these suckers out because I have a new cover and plugs that I will be using. My local Nissan dealer has tried to order me two new ones but they have been placed on back order. HELP!

People people people, can't we all just get along with one another?

I was just wondering. I offered the guy at the yard $100 bucks for the whole car but he wouldn't sell it. If it was converted it was done a lonnnnng time ago. the car had weeds growing through the floorboards and the body had rusted through in places. It just didn't look like anyone had fooled with it that's all, if you know what I mean. It looked stock.

Something that I have been wondering about. I was in a junk yard one day and found a 75-76 Zcar with rear disks already on it. I am pretty sure that it was a factory set up. Now here is the question. If the Z car came with rear disks at one point why cant we just go and find this set up and snatch it off the junk yard car and slap it on our cars? I guess what I am really asking is why doesn't anyone do this instead of going through all the trouble and expense to change the rear to the 240SX caliper set up? I have not heard anyone on this board talk about using the Z car rear disks, just wondering.

If you are just looking for rust and do not plan on doing anything to to tank I would reccomend leaving it alone. I pulled mine because my spare tire well was rusted out so badly that I could see the fuel tank underneath! I haven't tried putting it back in yet but it seems like last summer there was a post on here about a guy who was having a horrible time getting his tank connected back up to the filler neck. Good luck.

Ok I will go ahead and give you one of my secret gage location places that I wanted to do before anyone else did. If the gage you are talking about is one of the smaller ones, don't remember what the size is, try sticking it in the left round air conditioner vent location. That is if you do not plan on having A/C. Take out the plastic first though. This is where my autometer gas gage is going to go. I have trial fit the gage and I have to say that it looks nice. That also gives me room in the three other locations for water, oil and amps By the way your dash is nice!!!! If it were a woman I would try to have sex with it lol just kidding...I think

I have decided to leave my old ones in. When they break, then I will think about replacing them, lol. I think I am slowly beginning to get well from the "while I'm at it disease." God please do not let me have a relapse

Hey Georgia Z this is somewhat overdue but I wanted to say thank you for allowing me to check out your V-8 Z! I have a better understanding now of where the wires should go. However, when the time comes to start wiring up my engine, you may be asked to take a ride my way to lend some guidence I am still currently hard at work on the rear suspension of my Z and still awaiting parts from Courtesy Nissan to finish the job. The rear cover and plugs should be here on Wednesday. I drained the old rear end fluid today and it was like syrup! Thick and nasty! Again me and the wife had a great time visiting you folks the other night. Keep me posted on how your project is rolling along.

My guess would be the factory shop manual if you can find one.

Got mine from Victoria British. It only took a couple of days to get to my front door.

Hi Ryan, Thanks for the advice on the tension rods. I will be using hood pins instead of the latch. Yeah I kinda was surprised at how fast the hood came too. You are right, the sucker was packed pretty good. It was actually two boxes stapled together or so it seemed. What I really like about the hood is that it looks like it could have came on the Z car when it was new. And it should help the engine compartment breath a little better than with my stock hood with no vents. Now if my parts would just get here for my R-200 I could finish up the rear and move onto something else.

LOL I am still trying to find the old bathroom scales. I can't remember using them in the last 6 or 7 years and we have moved since then and had two yard sales so there is no telling. I can tell you that it is very light compared to the stocker. I would like to get the weights of the big heavy bumpers that I will not be using along with those bumper mounts. It would be cool to see how much weight you actually took off the car when it was done.

I will see what I can do. I may have a bathroom scale somewhere lol.

If I can remember correctly Racer X told be to put at least 2-3 coats of the DP90LF on the car then do the body work as in fillers then the high build primer. I have not done much to the car as in the body work lately but as soon as it gets a little warmer here in gool ole GA I plan to start back. However, I must admit that I have put the body work on the back burner for now in an effort to get the car running by the end of August 2003. Racer X will be the expert to talk to about this primer, also you may be able to do a search on this and find those old threads from last summer.

Well the hood arrived the other day and I will have to say that it was packed very good. The hood looks fantastic! It is very light and looks like it should have come on the Z when it was new. I can't wait until I have it on the Z and painted! Ryan did you have to take off the tension rods on the hood hinges or did you leave them on?

Yep the old air chisel works wonders on that stuff. I remember when I did mine over the summer a big chunk flew off and smashed me in the safety glasses. If had not been wearing them I would have had serious eye damage for sure. Mine is all gone now.

Hey Jared go with the DP90LF epoxy primer by PPG. It was recomended to me by Racer X about 6 months ago or so. It is a black satin finish primer that looks pretty good by itself. I have even thought of leaving the car wrapped in this primer for a time while I save up enough money to get a professional job done.

I have some that good ole Tomahawk Z made for me that are a one piece design. I may be selling them if I decide to go the MSA mount rout. If I do I will let go the Chevy truck mounts with them. They are more like Mike C. said. The set back plate, then the spacer and then another plate all welded together.

I saw this thread the other night and then went to sleep. When i awoke the next morning I couldn't remember if I had a dream about this Z with the 200SX dash or had I actually seen it on the site. I came back but couldn't find it so I must have been dreaming right

Daryl do not I repeat do not give me any more ideas at this point! I am almost ready to bolt everything back up to the rear of the car. I have pressure washed and sanded almost everything back there and of course gave it a cool home made pait job. I mean its like telling an alcoholic to take another drink

While I agree that most wear and tear does come on start up, I might also still have to disagree with the life expectancy issue. Ever ride in a piece of crap taxi, lol? Just because something can still be driven doesn't mean it will run well. I would suspect that most taxi companies get the ex cop cars at auctions to save money. Not only do the cars sit and idle for hours at a time (which I have heard is not good on the engine) but when they are driven they are driven hard. As I said before $500 to $600 would be a good price for an ex patrol cruiser in good shape.

I have a new nickname for my project car too. I just call it "Project Money Pit"