Clifton

1 Fast Z on here is running MSII with edis on a 1uz in his 4 runner.

The drain is not a better place to pick up fuel. It looks cool to some but there will still be slosh problems.

Are you running FA tires?

There's not alot of options anymore as it's an old car. What was once available might not be now. There is this one too. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137494

Bryan, Sorry. It wasn't a planned thing and was last minute. I had a day off and went down there at 12:30. I didn't think you would be able to make it, you usually don't get off too early and if I can avoid towing down the 101 after 2:00 I had to take it. I should have called though. If you want to go, I'll go again and bring my other Z. Let me know. I'll make sure Keith is there this time. He charged exactly my run time. The last time I think we paid too much. Head isn't ported. It is port matched and cleaned up but far from ported. I had Bryan check a port on his bench a while back and it wasn't much better than stock. Cam is from Delta. I'm not sure of the specs as it didn't match the card. Lift is pretty low, under .500", duration 280?. Junk yard short block (thanks Bryan). Timing was 18* at 15 psi, 14* at 20 psi. Turbo is a GT35R compressor side, T4 P trim .58 hotside.

Finally got around to getting it back on the dyno. The first one is 15 psi, the second 20 psi. I tried for more but anything over 22 psi and it missed really bad. You can see a little miss in the 20 psi run. The 25 psi run was horrible. I thought I had the plugs tight enough, maybe I don't, have to check. I know it is really rich too. My last track day I found my 60A alt can't keep up so I turned the fan off for the pulls, I'll swap the alt out I just want the afr correct at the correct voltage. What used to be low 12's was in the high 9's on the first run. I can lean it out a little more latter if I want. I really just needed a dyno sheet for Nasa and thought I'd share.

I don't worry about it. I have done 6 hour trips with the windows up, a/c on and my tank is inside. I would be more worried about the exhaust fumes from the back.

It is specific, not just general S30. 95% of the posts on here are S30 related too but there is a category for most.

The aggressive tread is for wet conditions, not dry traction hence the "W". Not the best tire unless it's driven in the rain alot. I will only run R comps. V700, RA1 front, drag radials in the rear. I built it for fun not mileage or economy.

I love those flares.

Jacob80, You are better off in the long run to run a larger injector and tune the drive abilty now. You may want to go with a bigger turbo later and then you only need to tune boost, not the whole map. Running even a 680cc inj on a stock turbo is fine, you will just never get near maxing them out. It won't effect fuel mileage.

Don't trust one without leaving your trans in gear. They bleed down. I only use mine when I have to get out for a minute or two or and want to let the a/c run.

I wouldn't use them either. Det will/can crack ring lands and stack them tight on the ring or snap them off. Even if they aren't visibly cracked I would be concerned knowing the crown is showing signs.

It's not the HP, it's the torque that breaks, twist, destroys parts, spins tires, ect. Being that this is a 400hp 2L, torque won't be a problem. You would probably be ok with an 8"/245. As Evan Purple240zt said. Tire compound has alot to do with traction.

I would leave it in reverse and turn the wheel to the curb if there is a curb.

If it was in first and you had a bad starter switch it would go forward. How steep is your drive?

I like it more better than most aftermarket ones. Your car kinda has a Road Warrior/Mad Max look:icon14:

Scary watching. It looks like the Miata driver was on the brakes too. The hit e was lucky they weren't facing the other way. A hit on the driver door and fire is my biggest fear.

Take the sender out and look inside. You'll need a small mirror to see the bottom. My 73' had sat for years and the tank was so bad the car would run for less than a minute at a time. It had rusty crud built up from moisture and old gas. No magical fluid was going to clean it. I tossed it and got another one. Old cars are a pita and require either deep pockets for a mechanic to fix or the knowledge on how to fix them and money for parts. Bringing an old Z to a shop could cost what one is worth. They are a never ending money pit.

These are drag wheels I guess but they look pretty modern. CCW has a similar wheel to it but more $$. Sorry if it's way off from what you're looking for. http://www.jegs.com/i/Billet+Specialties/135/RS035126545N/10002/-1 Fixed it.

You sure you're sure? Because you asked if the SU's could be mixing fuel with the oil. Pull the valve cover and check the valve clearance. If one's stuck it would be obvious.

Yes to both. The adjuster isn't adjustable. You mean the chain guides? I've cut .080" off heads and stuck them on old blocks with old chains. Never had a problem. How off is it on the cam groove?

What it starts to open at is about the boost you'll have. It doesn't take alot of movement to bled off enough pressure to control the boost. If it starts to open at 7 and is fully open at 15 psi, I would say you will be well under 9 psi, maybe even 7 psi if you don't preload the rod too much. You only need to pull the rod out a small amount to get it on the flapper. Like an 1/8" max.

I wouldn't do the rb20. Budget or not. I would tune the SU's change the belts and save up for something better. You will probably only do a swap once.

I enjoyed the reading. That's alot of work, can't wait to see it finished.