Clifton

If the heads flowed worth an S it would be alot higher. There's a reason people do LS, JZ, ect swaps and not Jeep 6 swaps:biggrin:

Try Nico. There's a few on there. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193

Is it drivable yet? Pretty clean I found your pics. http://album.hybridz.org/member.php?uid=15517&protype=1 If a pic is above 1.5 meg you need to resize before uploading to it for imageshack.

The only reason to go up in size is to keep the air speed down. Bell covers it in his book. With a stock SR turbo I don't think you'll ever outflow a 2" tube.

It might be easier to swap it out for a internal regulated alt. They're easy to hookup.

Cool. Are you doing ZG flares? If you ever decide to go with a big brake kit on it, ARZ on here makes kits for them. I think the MKIV's are the same. I know he did a kit on an SC. It was his car I got the measurements from. http://arizonaperformance.com/

B box. have only broke one, 5th gear. I autocrossed today (video shortly) and made the mistake of not turning down the boost on the first run. Anyway, going through the map to kill power above 10 psi, I found that I boost cut set to 25 psi on the SDS, oops. Explains the horrible miss I had at 25psi.

I run the old non bridged super lights on my track car and never had a problem and talk to Dave quite a bit and have never heard of it. My street car doesn't get the same use so it would be hard to compare.

Wow. Are the bores all the same ID and pistons the same OD?

On one of my plastic bushings, the same piece broke off. I don't know how long ago but I still run them. It may move a little more in the hole but the specs won't change. I wouldn't worry about the bent one as long as it doesn't bind the rod in the hole with a load on the corner. If it's still centered or close to it you're good. If you can pull hard on it and it's up against the side of the hole. I wouldn't use it.

Damper, not balancer. 1 fast Z had to rebalance a pressure plate that was causing him problems. I don't know how much it was out by though.

Search AZC suspension. I know there is atleast two guys on here running it. Dave something is one of them. John already posted a link to Beta Motorsports, they have alot of strut options too. This should keep you busy for a while. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138601

I'm saying if a 2+2 is want you really want get it. If you are getting it to save a few hundred, 3 years from now you might regret not spending the extra couple $$ to get what you really wanted. Most people end up spend more than they think on a car over a few years, I do every time. I've seen people spend all kinds of money on a car when they could have just got the next model up instead (MKIII v MKIV, C5 v C6, Z31 v Z32 ect) but were to far into it before they new it and then it's too late.

That's how it starts. I started at 18 with the same plan, that was almost 20 years ago..

I would probably not get it if the idea is to dump a bunch of money in it. If it's JUST for transportation then get it.A 2+2 and a sunroof on top of that are going to kill the value even if you do dump a lot into it. You'll regret it later. I shouldn't say a 2+2 is bad but unless that's what you are looking for and really want you might regret it. A sunroof is bad either way.

550's. They were at 75% on one of 25 psi runs.

I didn't read every post. You may have said. If you are running resistors just ignore this. I am running flyback and I had voltage, and duty cycle spikes that drove me crazy. I ran a filter that did nothing. The experts on the MS board kept saying it was my alt. I new it wasn't. My radar detector reads voltage too and goes nuts above 17 V. I have had alts go bad and it picks it up fast. I ran the dumped power from the flyback out of the ecu and into 12+ out side the unit. It's been good since.

Look up compressor surge and look at a compressor map. Any thing on the left will be surge/flutter. If it's on shift it won't hurt, if it's constant that's different. It's all in the sizing. Add another 500-1000 rpms to the boost threshold or a smaller compressor and it will stop.

I've had two PM's about the intake manifold. The horrible plenum is 3" Runners 1.68 od, 1.44 id runner length 6" TB is 60mm. Bryans right about the lines. I ran stock Z lines on my 7m too until I went with twin pumps, it was over 500 rwhp at the time. I had a gauge T'd in on this for the dyno. The reg had no problem keeping pressure down around 38-40 psi at idle (I have low vaccum). I don't know at what gal/hr the reg would have trouble keeping idle pressure correct but it works fine with a 255 l/hr Walbro pump.

It is really close. I think my 7M made 418 or 420 at 22 psi. If this one would have held 22 it would have easily made that. A few years back the other L28 made 417 at 22. The only thing better about the 7M is the slightly higher torque from the added displacement. I wish I could have got this to 28 psi (even with a smaller turbo) to see if it would match the 533 of the 7M.

EvilC, If you want a boosted Z, boost that LS1. Even 7 psi would stomp about any L28 and have a better power band. You coming out? It's not fancy.

Yes, has a custom intake too. But pretty much stock.

I run a little more on my street car on pump gas at 15 psi and it's safe without water. On a street or drag car you don't have the heat build up from a 10-15 second blast. This gets beat on 15 minutes at a time, intercooler gets hot and water temp gets pretty hot so that's why I am running less, even with race gas. Cast pistons aren't too forgiving and I probably wouldn't even hear it happening.

I have zipped up the street a few times with my track car and it isn't something I would want to do often with high spring rates. If it was to get to the track only, that's different. If yours is a street car too, you might not enjoy driving it as much going stiffer. I would try bumping the pressure up and try that first. How is that thing on the street with 1/8" toe out? Gotta be horrible, or do you change it at the track?

Cary could give you more insight on the Hoosiers, I've only run Goodyear and Yoko FA tires but on my car running 2.5* front camber I have to run 35 psi or it will roll the outside edge too much and kill the outer 3/4" or so. I have run up to 40 psi cold. I'm running alot higher spring rates and 350 lb less weight too. I'm going to try 3* this weekend on a short autoX coarse. I can't remember what I was running the FA fronts at on the rear without digging through my book. I'm running FA rears now and very low pressure.