Clifton

The only valve I've ever had stick had the head bent about 30*. Can a straight valve just stick and over come the spring pressure?

Me too. I would love to see what happened. Others could learn from it and make theirs safer. Could save someone else.

I don't know what you're talking about. They sell them. http://arizonazcar.com/inject.html

That pic of the spacer was from AZC.

I though about it but it was an L28 engine thread and the fuel tank/cell mods would be necessary regardless of the engine, it's more the intended purpose of the car. Yasin, Thanks. The intercooler was cheap:mrgreen:. I did it before the knock offs were priced what they are today. I ran one on my 73 for awhile too. They work pretty good.

Looking at this picture I think it, plus it's what they were made for. Don't know about other spacers though.

Block. Unknown mileage J/Y turbo short block Head. P90, port matched and cleaned up, Schneider springs, Delta cam Intake. Custom manifold, MKIII intercooler Ex Man. Stock w/ T4 flange welded on Turbo. GT35R cold side/ P trim,.58 hot. 38mm WG 15 psi base spring EFI. 550's, SDS HP.... With old turbo (slightly smaller), different JY block and stock cam. 358 rwhp at 15 psi, 417 w/ 22 psi on a dynojet.

Air shouldn't blow through the wastegate actuator. Sounds like a ruptured diaphragm. You can see what it should open at with it removed from the flapper. The more tension on the WG diaphragm spring (preload), the more pressure it will take to open it.

I've already turned one set of rotors ( 5lug kit) and they are warped again. This is on the street car too. When you indicated on the hat was it the rotor mounting surface side? I was considering just buying a new pair of rotors but I know they will warp too. I need to check my hats without the rotors on.

An L28, 7m, or just about any engine with decent turbo friendly compression can handle 25 psi if timing are kept in check and octane is high. I've run 22 on L28 cast, will run more in a month and 30 psi on cast 7M for more tank fulls than I can even think. I have around 570 rw ft/bs at 28 psi. I have no problem with traction. Yes you have to run a drag radial but that's the price to have a high powered Z. If you can be happy with 400 rwhp with a stock or not much larger then it will have good power under the curve on a 2.5. I guarantee you will not like driving around a 800 hp 1J on the street, atleast if you want to make boost without 3 downshifts to get 6000 rpms.. Power is in the head and torque is in the displacement or boost. Torque is good but it's even better at broad range.

99% of the people on this board will never get close to what an engine can make. They don't look at off boost power or drive ability. If they did they wouldn't do an SR20 or RB20 swap. Most run them with stock turbos and and maybe 15 psi. Posts like yours do give hope but it is false hope. No 2.5l engine is making 800-900 Hp on anything that will make boost under 6000 rpms and not without running 40 psi and most people won't run $10 + gal gas everywhere they go to do it. Fun on the street I'm sure. I never said an L28 could make 800 hp. I have seen 1JZ's make low 500 rwhp with a big asss turbo and 30 psi. No different than a what 30 psi would do for a 7M or L28, except they would make more torque doing it. A 4-6L engine with 15-20 psi on pump gas will have better street manners and shame a 30 psi race gas using, laggy 2.5l any day. Don't fall in love with just one engine and be blinded by what it can make at peak hp, there is more to it than max HP.

No I wouldn't do it again. I would even sell the drivetrain ready to swap. I only did it because I had a $400 wrecked MKIII and a 240Z without an engine. IMO a 7M isn't much better than a L28, only 200cc more. Longer stroke and doesn't flow much more if any. 1JZ is smaller so I wouldn't even consider it. 1J might make 50hp more at 20 psi if it was lucky. If you are looking at a motor swap it isn't because you have maxed the L28 out. If you had more torque I bet you wouldn't be looking. Go bigger and you'll be happier. 1U, VH, VQ turbo, LSx

I like the VQ/Z32 adapter, can use a V6 truck trans and keep the shifter forward. Drew, Does the Z32 bellhousing need to be machined to take up the adapter width and does the adapter use dowel alignment?

I haven't run a Holset but have an L28 and 7M and have run all kinds of turbos on both. If it spools good on a L28 it will spool better on a 7M. More cc's = better spool. On another note. Having swapped a 7M I wouldn't do it again and 1JZ's don't make any more HP per psi and make less torque.

Sorry, I didn't see the wideband post. It was even earlier here. As long as you don't run out of duty cycle and the afr is good and it isn't knocking bump it up. I wouldn't go above 15-16 psi, not to say you can't but I wouldn't on the stock turbo. FWIW, when I had 550's my DC was well past 100% towards redline but my afr was still in the 12's so I ran it until I could got larger inj. I also ran 440's at maxed at 96% DC at redline for a few years on the stock ecu.

Is this Dan? Are you running FA fronts too?

You still never answered the wideband question so I assum you don't have one. If you have Megasquirt how did you tune the afr? If you did manage without a wideband and it was tuned good check your datalogs and look at the injector duty cycle.

To go low on the front you need to section it to keep from bottoming the spring hat on the top of the strut tube.

I didn't know you were going with HKS cams or maybe you told me and I forgot:ugg:. I need to dyno my 71' before the next event, I'll let you before I go if you want to bring your car down too.

I ran an O trim/.69 on the L28 and I am back to running an O trim/.68 on the 7M ( was a P/.68).

Looks great. We need some video.

KA's are dirt cheap thanks to sr20 swapping nuts:mrgreen: My Frontier has 205k miles on it and runs perfect. If you are going to stay n/a more cc's = more torque= more fun in traffic and easier to drive. There's a reason Nissan used them in everything that was heavier than a Sentra.

The first thing I would have done was up the boost to 12 psi. More if you have a wideband and it doesn't knock. That would easily get you 250-300 hp. I would rather spend $10 on a manual boost controller for an easy 250 hp than hundreds on nistune, Z31 ecu, electronic boost controller, ect just to try and make power with a little less boost. As long as it runs on pump gas, HP is all that maters to me.

It may have been missed a few pages ago but Lotus used flat planes in the LT5 for road racing as there 3.5 turbo V8 wasn't up to the task. I don't know if the LT5, LT1, and 350 share the same basic design. I know they did the heads but I don't know about the block design.