Clifton

This place has pretty good prices on larger cc injectors. Don't know about what you are looking for though. http://www.racetronix.com

It says they all used the LSU4 sensor.

I've never been to F1 to compare but I used to go to Speedawy once or twice a week for about 6 months, then I got the 73 and it tied me up. It is alot of fun. I've heard Bondurant has a big track but I think it's outdoor. Would be to good this time of year. I'd show show a Z meet.

Might help some that are looking at buying. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/06/WidebandShootout/index.php

I would try the bars first before swapping springs. I would then only swap the springs around if it has too much push, assuming the camber is set were it needs to be for optimum traction.

If you are easily making 10 psi by 3000 rpms, it sounds like it's spooling just fine. If it spooled any faster you would just have more problems. How fast do you make full boost at 4500? So you have an idea. I have my BOV set soft enough that it will open just a little on an idle rev (felt with my finger on the valve). Even that soft it has no problem holding 30 psi.

It's the rod that goes from the lower control arm back to the frame. MSA sells rubber ones.

I'm sure your bov is fine. I have a Greddy type R. I had to trim some of the spring to get it to even open at low vac/boost when the throttle closed. Now the screw is only turned in about 4 turns. You can really crank it down and keep it from ever opening if you wanted. If it was leaking you wouldn't here a flutter follwered by the fluctuating needle. It would just vent and you would make boost. If it surges at low rpm, don't boost so much there. You really don't need 10 psi at 3k in 5th. Just drop a gear so the engine is using more air and it won't surge at that pressure or back off a little so it's under the threshold. The turbo (TO4B) on my 71' surges and so does the T66 on my 73' if I try boosting too much at lower rpms. It's easy to avoid. You could go largher on the hotside. It would slow it down and make a little more power but it would be easier to just get used to it and keep it were it needs to be to avoid it. Also surge is hard on thrust washers. They are cheap and easy to change but I would keep doing it on purpose.

I wouldn't run a poly TC rod bushing. Quite a few people on here have broke the rod running them.

Tigthen it up a little and try it again. Are your running a turbo larger than stock? It sounds like compressor surge, low rpm, low flow, medium boost. It woudn't happen with a T3 though.

They are double over drive. 6th gear would ony really be good for cruise. A 4 liter engine should be fine with that in such a light car. You would definatly get good mileage on a road trip.

It's not the HP that breaks things. It's the torque. If you can get a better trans for less I would do it. If you are going to keep it under 600 rwtq and not drag race every weekend an r154 would survive.

The R154 won't have a problem with a n/a 1uz or even a lightly boosted one. People do break the thrust washers but you have to beat on them hard with alot of power. I would put the trans you want in it now. If you put the auto in now and later swap it later it will cost more. You might have to redo the trans mount and the exhaust and deffinatly the driveshaft. Here's a bunch of 1uz link http://1uzfe.com/hp_links.htm

Piston size effects the bias too. If I plan to do any hard high speed braking, I dial all the rear pressure or it wiggles alot when you hit it, I know it is a wiggle away from getting ugly. Around town/low speed, I add almost all of it without rear lockup. My rears wheels/tires are wider than the fronts too. I am also running the stock proportioning valve after the adj one. Don't know if that makes a difference.

12.2"/ 308 mm.

Stiff sidewalls aren't your problem. Lack of toe in will cause your tires to follow any imperfections in the road. Paint stripes, cracks, ruts, ect.

How come you aren't running a little toe in on the front? It's a street car right?

Based on this and your wander, I would guess you are toed out some.

Ya, I didn't want to turn them out that far but I had already welded in the camber plates when I had the factory lengthend arms on. I have the camber plates set for, all the way in for autoX and all the way out for street but that is with a longer arm. A stock length arm wouldn't work with it now and his arms only come in one length. Luckily I haven't had any problems yet.

I forgot, the AZC hubs are offset more than stock. Can't remember exactly but it was around 10-12mm. So I'm about 25mm wider per side.

I widened my front 15mm per side by lengthening the control arms and am running 17x8's with 235/45-17's. I have run 225-45's and 245-40's also. Wheels have a 25mm offset. I couldn't be happier with how it drives. What's your toe and caster set at?

I've never seen the under side of a 280 but it will if the 280 rear mount is the same as the 73's which it sounds like they are.

Summit has ST bars pretty cheap. I would go larger. 240 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=stq-52095 280 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=stq-52100

2fiddy drove my car and I drove his at msa's last autoX. He runs a 245 wide rt-215 on the front and I run a 235 wide ra1 on the front. There is a huge difference in grip. I'm sure he will agree. They aren't much more and last almost as long as a Falken and longer than a v700. IMO they are the best dual purpose tire when you want mileage (8/32" tread depth). I've had mine on for about 2 years and they are finally getting down there. If you were closer I would give you a ride.

Soft tires make a huge difference in traction. Those Dunlops are you have great for mileage but not traction. I would think his L28 T is making as much or more than an n/a LS6