Clifton

VK's have 8 bolts, same as VH's. Don't know the crank diameter on VK's though. Do you have a measurement by chance?

I'm not to into drag racing were scatter shields seem to be popular. I may be wrong but I don't think power has much to do with a PP or clutch coming apart, atleast not at this level. As much as you can make with a 7m, there are many other motors making alot more and I haven't heard of any on the other boards I frequent having anything come apart. I do know of one L and one VG30 but they weren't high hp motors.

My motor had 189k when I put it in. I rebuilt it at probably 210k miles just becasue I had it out to paint the car and I knew it wasn't going to last forever, not because of rod knock. I think most worn rod bearings are from people running a little low on the dip stick that is too high in the pan to begin with. Mine is always just above the full mark. I would reuse the stock bolts before using arp head bolts. If you are going to spend the money get studs. The drive line angle is what it is. There is no way to really correct it. It is not the much of an issue that alot of people think it is. If you do it use a sSicer 1310 rear u joint, The Nissan one is tiny compared to the Toy front.

RA1's have alot of tread depth if you are doing alot of street driving too. Ecsta V700's or Victoracers are good dual purpose tires with a little less tread. There is an add in Grassroots motorsports for Hankook R compound tires. Some close out sale, they are pretty cheap. never run them though.

It's a pretty easy swap. A few of us on here have done it. If you decide to do it and have any questions, shoot me a PM.

A drive shaft shop will retube it if you bring them in both peices. Given your displacement though, you have a decent amount of torque. I don't know what size your front u-joint is but while you are at it I would replace the rear flange with one to use a Spicer 1310. It's a bit larger than the tiny Z u-joint and if you drag race or bang gears you'll be glad you did it. Most broken u-joints bend the ears and then you'll be doing it again. The flange isn't much, around $40 and you can get them for either Nissan diff pilot diameters.

You only really need power to one of the wires to get it to charge. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=D&Page=1 http://www.supra.co.nz/87tsrm/index.htm I think you'll need a tach adapter from msd to get your tach to read. I used the supra tach in the Z housing.

VH41, VH45, and VK45 are all aluminum blocks, all cast. The Vk45's are just lighter than the older VH's.

Thanks. They have alot of pics on there site too.

I figured someone on here may have bought a half cut and would have a pic of an RB26 with awd trans and front diff. Or just the awd trans and diff.

The frustration comes from the lack of others understanding something so simple. Yes s130's are solid mounted in the front only. 'm not sure abpout 130's but Z31's are bolted to a subframe. It doesn't change the fact that the mounting point is narrow, why, because it doesn't see torque applied to it in the direction of the driveshaft rotation, if it did it would need more than one bolt cenetered for the rear mount.

I give up.

The diff will not barrel roll. Look at an S130 mount it is one bolt, not a 3' wide mustache bar. The diff will rotate opposite of the torque that is being transmitted which is the halfshafts. There is a ring and pinion that transmitts the torque THROUGH the diff. If you were to stop the transmission of torque through the diff and have it be applied to the diff itself, maybe from a catastrofic ring and pinion failure or welding the pinion flange to the diff itself, then the diff would be recieving the transmitted torque. In that case, yes it would want to roll and twist the directing of the driveshaft. If it were as many on here believe, high torque solid axle vehicles would have zero traction on the right rear tire. It's just not the case.

The verticle load is the torque. It does not see torque side to side. Just as engine does not see it front to back. The moustache bar could be 4" wide and it wouldn't make a diffeence so long as it didn't need to flex due to the excessive front movement. The moustache bar only sees downward force/torque, not twisting side to side.

The diffs rotational force begins were the torque is being transmitted, the half shafts. That is were the twisting is centered. If there were no mounts the diff would rotate around were the half shafts are. The front of the diff is farther from that center and has more leverage than the moustache bar that is very close to the center. There just isn't much leverage on something (M bar) that close to the center. Not saying there isn't, just not much. The front of the diff is much further from center and it has alot more leverage. The S30's M bar is flexible only because there is so much front movement. I't can't be small and rigid or it would fatigue and break from constatly flexing. Don't know why S30's mounts are so far apart though, maybe because the subframe is right there and it's a convenient mounting point. Z31's use a very narrow rear diff mount as the torque isn't transmitted lateraly. I do know the front of the diff has alot of force. Mine without a limiter and bad leather strap did hit my parking brake with the rear u-joint load. Thought my car was comming apart. Then went in a solild mount like I've had in my 71' for the last 10 or so years. Don't really notice noise in a track car, sure do in a street car. That came out an hour later and my limiter and stock mount has been in since.

The twisting of the diff pivots where the axles are. The rear mustache bar is mainly just there to hold the diff up. Under load it will see some downward force but not much as the majority of the load is on the front mount as it is further away from the axle centerline. It's spring steel so it can twist with the diff movement. If the front cannot lift it wouldn't matter if the rear mount is solid of flexable. I don't plan to change my diff limiter anytime soon as it works fine, but the sway bar bushing idea is pretty good and simple. Is it as quite as stock?

It is in Denmark : )

I'm in the same boat with the engine swap. You can run XP too though. Here the cars in that class are a little more streetable and not as fast as emod. Realisticly you'll never be competetive in Emod with 1500lb slick shod, purpose built cars, even XP, especially if you want to keep it street friendly. IMO you'll be happier just running for fun and not thinking about how fast you are in that class as you are out classed with the engine swap.

The 4.1 is a VH, the 4.5 above is the the newer VK. The older VH45 is heavier.

Check your voltage, both high and low at the headlight with the light plugged in. I had mid 11v on low and 10's on high. That was with 13.5-13.8v at the battery. I wired a relay for both high and low and barely loose .5v at the light. Made a HUGE difference in brightness and they actually look white now instead of the yellow they were. Mine are H4's 55/65w

If I knew how to take and attach a jpg of them I would. I can send you the msq if you want.

Solid diff mounts are noisy. One trip around the block and I took mine out and fabbed up a movement limiter too. A little different than this one. I don't mind some road noise but if it's avoidable all the better.

KDW are wet/rain tires, lot of voids. KD's are pretty good for a street tire, about equal to Falken Azenis as far as grip, just cost more. The treadwear is a pretty good indicator of how well they will stick. Lower numbers being softer. Both are 200. Ra1/Nitto DR's are 100. Kumho V700 is a 50. There is a huge traction difference between a 100 and 200 treadwear rating.

Wow, never new that. Thanks.

Nice revenge story. Question though. I know what a "brown guy" is, but what's a tamil ?