Clifton

Reider Racing carries them.

It won't bolt up without an adapter.

It's pretty good. Ever see the 90's Z32 GI Joe commercial?

I've read on forums that they will not bolt up to the VG's. I do know they are not as strong as Z32 5spds. If it's cheap I would suspect it has sycro issues.

I have an LM1 and like everything except it can't be mounted on the dash or steering colum for qucik viewing. I have one of the 2 configurable outputs set to 0-5 and it is used for MSII for datalogging and I can still look at the display for realtime. If you want it in the car permently in eyesight I would agree jgkurz on the FJO.

I managed to get 3" with an R154. It does take up more room than a Z trans but it will fit. I clear most speed bumps.

You ever run RA'1 or Victoracers/V710's to compare them to? I like the tread design on them but haven't known anyone running them.

Damn, must be nice having 510 rwhp and zero turbo lag. That's crazy. How are those NT-01's?

Why not get a turbo that you don't need to block have the turbine inlet? Size and required airflow really depends on how much boost you are going to run. A gt3782 doesn't use a TSO4 housing. Stick with the GT series map. I would run a GT4088. The turbine wheel is better suuited to your flow requirements. You can get smaller housing from Precision Turbo for the GT40's, .68 and .81. It would spool pretty good with a .68 on a 302. You would be better off on a Mustang board though. Look at peoples dynos with various turbos to see were they come on at.

I don't think I would go with the 55 series unless you want the rally car look. 225-45-17's fit and look great on 17x7's. Falken RT-615's are probably the best "street" tire for performance. Wear won't be as great as some other but traction will be better. Most street tire autocrossers run them. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?cf=false&sw=false&cs=225&pc=18502&rd=17&ar=45

That isn't a Garrett turbo regardless on what the dishonest crook says it is. It is an Ebay special, "T70" with a 60.5mm compressor wheel. It isn't a Garrett or a GT40 though.

You need to keep it lubed. WD40, Liquid Wrench, ect work good. Spray the arear every few minutes. Also non ferrous burs don't clog as easy and remove material alot faster.

8.8's are cheap and alot lighter than R200's. It would be alot of work though. There was atleast one guy that used a Z32 rear subframe under a Z31. They are a little wider but it worked. You could use a Q45 3.54 with it if ti's low enough. Just a thought.

The 88 refers to the exducer diameter on of the compressor wheel. There is a GT4082 also. GT40 is just the family like T3, there are many different trims.

Also check the main caps. They should be snug when you pull them out. If they are loose from getting it hot down there, it's junk.

AZC and MSA sell them. I think they are both made by G-machine. They are either Delrin or nylon, solid.

Crating and shipping fiberglass is a PITA when comparred to boxing up a brake kit.

It's hosted on imageshack.us, It's real easy to use them. Use the direct link after it's hosted, it will be the last one at the bottomof the page.

I could only take mine for about 10 minutes also. They do add quite a bit more noise that I couldn't live with for a street car.

They come as pictured, welll minus the rod end sway bar mount. You can adjust camber some. I lengthend my AZC arms 10mm, about the max to flush out the tire. I have camber plates to adjust for the 10mm. You can pull it in some but it might not be enough to set the camber to the specs you are looking for, unless you are lookinh for more camber. You can adjust caster with the car on the ground, real easy to do.

With the questions you are asking it sounds like it will be much more than you can do. "It'd be very helpful if there was a site that had maybe a guide with pictures". If I am wrong sorry. Just trying to save you from a project that may be more than you are ready for. John Dixon on here can get you a 5 spd trans adapter but that will be the easy part. Fabbing motor/trans mounts, wiring , custom driveshaft, exhaust, and alot of misc that adds up in time and money. No swap is hard if you can weld/fab, and wire.