Clifton

I know this post is a little old but. The weld to the bottom sumps will have starvation in corners. In a stock type baffled tank setup the return line feeds the baffle/trap were the pump is. In a turn very little fuel by the motor and the and the remainder is fed back to the pump in it's baffle. With that weld on sump the returned fuel is just dumped back in the tank, not to the pump inlet. It would only take a second to use what little fuel is trapped in the sump that hasn't sloshed to the side of the tank and then it would pull air. This is assuming the car is hard in a corner and isn't running full of fuel. The intank pumps with baffle is the best design, that's why every car maker uses it. Z31 and MKIII's have great doner tank to get the baffles and pump hangers out of and Walbro pumps are about $90. The link pparaska put up would be good too. With an intank setup I can autocross with 3 gallons and not have any problems with fuel pickup.

I run an early n/a cam on my L28T. I have also never resufraced rocker arms or used new ones and have swapped many cams.

Me too.

Did this just happen or was it after the brake swap? Regardless of the pad you shouldn't have any problem locking up a tire with those brakes, especially if you are running street tires. I have had a bad vacuum booster and I had a hard time stopping, even pushing as hard as I could still wouldn't lock a tire.

You can run alot more than 22 psi on a stock block if you have the octane for it. You are right about the detonation.

On the back side of the toe adjustment, the point of the triangle, there is a female threaded hole to attach a rod end with a bolt. I thought he includes them with the arms but could be wrong.

There are some maps here. http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/maps/all.html

On the 5spds it's 5th gear that's the weakest. Other than that I would think they are the same, strength wise.

You'll have to re-adjust the backlash. Get a dial indicator and base. Harbor Freight has them cheap. With 2 diffs you should be able to make the shims work. I did.

Some will but not all, the lean burn econo engines.

You don't have to. I don't know how much power you are putting down but negative camber doesn't help straight line traction. The more you lower the rear the more neg camber you'll put in it. IF you have c/o's you could avoid going to low.

I have them. At first I just put them in stock, no rewire. They weren't as bright as they should have been. Checked voltage, it was really low so I wired in a a couple of relays and got fused power from the battery. My P lights are on when the lights are on though, just light stock.

It can be pressurized and has been done, it just can't measure the density of the air moving through it.

MKIV Supras do. MKIII's use the R154.

There a few places in Australia that make belhousings for the 1UZ's and R154's. A stock R154 clutch will easliy hold 400 rwhp/tq. The R150/R151 are trucks boxes. Very few people break them.

Nice. Lets see some more pics of the car. Are you going to trim the rear fender under the flare?

You can fit a 9" wheel without flares. I run 8" springs 250f/280r. No problems.

Taking the rear bar off will reduce oversteer. Also you can set up a FWD car to be loose.

Looks really nice. How many hours do you have in them?

It's an unauthorized charge. Don't even call the tool company. Call the CC company. I had an issue with Clutchspecialties not refunding me, after the second call and no results I gave up. Called Visa and they took care of it. make sure you know who you talked to and when. They will ask.

Can't see em.

Looks good. I've sat in a 350Z a few times. Those seats are comfortable and have pretty good support. Did you happen to weigh it before the install?

I'm running them in the front and my fronts in the rear. You will need to section the struts to use them and then run coil overs. If you have Koni red DA's in the front, stick some in the rear and get another set of springs. I guess you could just run some aftermarket rears but who knows what rate you have in front. I would think the car would push pretty good right now with stock rears. If have a pair of rear DA Koni's if you are looking for some.

You shouldn't do it for the reasons already listed, but people do blow through them and hot wire sensors.