Clifton

IRS. The diffs are lighter, stronger and can be found for $100 with an LSD. Gears are also cheap. .

And they look just like AZC's.

You need to know total timing. 2*advance doesn't mean anything if you are running stand alone. I'd run more boost, 16-18psi. Try 22* total. I would'nt run less than 20* at full boost. You can run higher boost and be reliable as long as you aren't on the edge of deto or running too muach timing. I run alot of boost and have reliablity.

http://www.microtechefi.com/ http://haltech.com/ You can use your stock sensors and coils with either. Go into downloads and it shows the wiring.http://www.microtechefi.com/html/WIRING.htm Haltech also makes this http://haltech.com/interceptor.htm. for the SR20. What ever you get you will need a wideband to tune it properly. I would get whatever turbo and injectors you will be using before tuning. A T25 won't move nearly as much air as a T3 or larger turbo at the same boost. So sense in tunning twice. I know Microtech will put a base map in it for your application to get you running. You can probably find someone with a similar setup and use there map and fine tune from there, with whatever system you end up with.

Ha, ha. He's a "good o'l boy" from Texas. Seems he doesn't like people from Syria, Iran, N. Korea, or - france either. So does anyone know if these work in the long diffs? I don't see why they won't if it's for a 12mm ring gear.

I believe he sells suspension technics(sp?) Not 100% on that. I know some aftermarket ones come with new brackets that mount the same as his, from the rear. This way you can use either type of bar.

Don't know if it will work ithe long nose R200 but it cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-LSD-HELICAL-DIFFERENTIAL-89-98-NISSAN-240SX-S13-S14_W0QQitemZ8036052129QQcategoryZ33601QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I've seen them. The part looks solid but they are machined out on the back side. The are pretty light. Bolts up like the stock one.

I haven't run an 8" spring that soft but I would think it would coil bind on dips. What happens when you soften the struts all the way? Should soften the ride.

I played with it. I haven't personly seen one on a car though. I know the GT series turbine a/r's are typically larger compared to the T4 a/r's for the same application. If they will work for someones particular application though, they are a good deal. There are a few 7M MKIII guys running gt4082's and gt4088's. Don't remember the a/r's but they are on Supraforums.

Unless your rb26 is stock. I would atleast try the 3.9 before swapping to the 4.1. If you are making alot of power you'll spend as much time shifting as you will be on the throttle in 1st and second. I'm running a 3.9 and am undecided on going to a 3.7 or 3.54.

You don't need to pull your crank to have a flywheel balanced. It would be no different than putting a flywheel from another L on your car. They are balanced seperate from the engine. Just like your wheel and tire is balanced seperate from the hub. HKS sold flywheels that were balanced. They never required a crank sent in.

Is there a chance you'll be making an adapter for the VH45?

The compressor wheel and turbine are balanced individually. Only Turbonetics that I know of balances as an assembly. When they do they take the weight off the nut. I have replaced turbine wheels on T netics turbos and used a new nut without problems. It's the one on my car now. I have never had a turbo leak or come apart that I have rebuilt or swapped part on and have never balanced any of them. Of the 2 local turbo shops I get parts from, neither have a balancing machine and will tell it's not necessary.

The 78 trans would have a lower 1st and 2nd that would benift you more for autoX.

Nothing. With over a year at 533 rwhp and 570 rwtq I have only broke 1 U-joint.

When I put my Wilwoods and new MC I couldn't get it right until I bled the MC. You can do it on the car just run the fuild back into the resevoirs. If it's still soft it could be the reaction disk.

After what you did with your car (nice job) you shouldn't have any problem doing the rebuild yourself. The parts are around $80. It's easier to do than you'ld think.

Get a ride in that Nova and then it will be easier to toss the L. An LS1 is not any heavier than an L and will make power power than 95% of the turboed L28's out there (on pump) while being completely stock. Ad a turbo or SC if you need more. If you want a 12 sec car keep the L. If you want to run with fast cars and 1 liter bikes ditch the L.

I know you can squeeze a 275 in the rear, I did. You'll have to run an 8" spring to do it though.

I would look for a cheap electric vac pump if you plan to do this often. You can find them on ebay. The cheap venturi ones work but take some time to pull it down. I don't know about 280's but 240's have marginal a/c when over 100* outside. I would also stick with R12. R134 was gone up in price, atleast here. My system only used 2 cans. It cost me less than $20 to use R12 over R134. Look on ebay for it. The more you buy the cheaper it is. Replace the dryer and all schrader valves too.

I autocross with 26 psi. You have to know when to start lifting when the boost comes on to keep it from maxing. He'll have to be real carefull with a turbo V8 though. I don't think that turbo will last long though mounted sideways. The front bearings need oil too and the rear seal will leak.