Clifton

Not when compared to a newer 4 valve 3L, especially in a 3500 lbs car. Wait B16's make good power and are light too, maybe that would work, they rev. Is it better than an L20B, yes but the RB20 is dated and makes less power than an SR20 with alot more weight.

I bought a lightly crashed Q45 yesterday and a T72 last week so I have been searching more now. I should do this next summer. Lost/Slims vh45 Z32 uses the stock Q EFI. I assume he is using an emulator and reprogramed the ECU. This would cheaper than AEM for me. Don't know if you have the stock EFI. Here's a few links. http://xtronics.com/memory/pktROM.htm http://ztechz.net/id10.html http://www.escort-jp.com/piston/nissan_f.html

Beautiful car . You go through the gears pretty quick in the end, even 4th. Has to be wicked fast. Hook us up with some kill vids. Have you weighed it? And the big question. How much boost?

Right. I edited.

Something with the lifters maybe? I have even never seen a hydro head. I'm sure you could run an after market cam in there as long as you kept the lift within reason. Maybe someone on here has first hand experience with it and cams.

It was destined for turbo use. 114* lobe center. Can't remember the other specs.

Just a stocker. I will put a larger after market cam in it, just need to go pick it up at a friends.

Your HP still seems a little low considering the turbo even on a Mustang dyno. Your torque would be higher if the boost came on earlier though. Looking at the torque curve it looks like full boost is around 5200 rpms. Is that right? What gear were you in? If it was second in an auto that might explain the late torque curve. Not enough load. Your HP might not even be peaking at 6K, looks like it is just starting to get into it. The .81 with a stg 3 wheel will make alot more power up top than a standard T3 wheel. I would of run it to atleast 7k. I would think it would pull hard to aleast that on the street.

Yes.

A GT35 doesn't flow nearly as much as a GT35R. Don't bother with a GT30R, it will barely do 50 lbs. May as well save your money and run a T3/4. The 35R will spool fast enough and meet your goals.

Turbo cams have less lift on, I think it is the intake lobe. It's only .010" but is still enough for me not to run one. I run an n/a cam. Can't remeber the letter though. A and C cams are the same lift for both In/Ex. C having more duration, supposidly. B and F cams have less lift on one lobe, intake I believe. B is drilled.

A VG30DE makes as power as an RB20DET. For all the work you will do it will not make any difference in perfomance and drivabilty will be worse with less torque. Turbo the VG. I would never give up displacement.

So would poking a hole in the wastegate line:mrgreen:. This is just an adjustable leak.

The transmission is the same as the Z's, according to people on the web. So it should hold power. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t96440.html. How are you going to control the auto trans? I know they are computer controlled. I was looking at AEM. It can control shifts and lock up and run coil on plug. The injectors look to be side feed. MKIV turbo are too. They are 550's and are pretty cheap. If you are staying N/A that might not be a problem though. This is the Impul site with the stroker http://www.impul.co.jp/products/IP.htm

Got them confussed. The VK45 is 10.5, thanks. Did they quote you a price?

I agree with the atleast 10 cfm. Mine is rated at 10 cfm at 90 psi. If I'm running an air grinder or DA it will drop down to about 60 psi over time. It still works fine and does everything I need though.

How high of a CR are you going? stock is 10.5 I think. Eventually I will get one and turbo it, maybe next year. Post up when you find someone to make your pistons.

Buyer beware. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6755&item=4559549372&rd=1 It's specifically for 280ZX's

I run 250f / 280r with Konis on the street car. Nice ride. They only dampen on rebound though. I've been in other Z's with similar spring rates that were much stiffer from too much dampening.

I run a 15x10 on the fronts of my 71 with 5" backspace. I use a 1/4" spacer. A 15mm offset is not very much. On the 73 I have a 25mm offset wheel, 17x8. Gotta do what you gotta do to get it to fit I guess.

I haven't run a BB on my L28 but have on my 7m. BB will give you more durabilty. It is not done to increase spool. The frictional loses are very small. There are alot of Supra dynos out there and anyone can compare the torque curve of the two turbos. You can't tell.

That's one bad as s car.

Ya it's possible but not with stock bore SU's. A BIG cam and alot of head work so the head can flow at higher RPM. Forget low rpm torque and shifting at 6k.

Unless he put a staright axle in it and is running 30* that ain't it. The steering wheel shake could be bad balance. I've had bent driveshafts in trucks and a bad balance on my Z. It will shake the shiit out of you and everything else. The easiest way to know would be put the rear in the air and remove the wheel/tires. Put a couple of lug nuts back on so you don't loose your drums and kill someone and run it up to 60 mph. If it vibrates it's your D shaft.