Clifton

I run 2 680cc additional injectors on my 7M Z. I also run 2 additional 450cc's on my turboed truck. If the factory efi works good, why mess with it? Adding a few more injectors is cheap compared to standalone and tunable. If money wasn't an issue I would run standalone on all my cars though.

I used a baffle, pump hanger, and in-tank pump from a Supra (Z31 donor tank will also work good). Pumps are cheaper and there is no starvation at all. I have pics on my web page. I run a cell in my roadrace car, would of done the above if I could weld back then. You will still need a sump or surge tank if you go with a cell. This is if it's EFI. I wouldn't cut up a nice street car to do the cell.

If you want more grunt stay away from anything with less displacement than you currently have. VH45?

That's alot for a temporary set of wheels. I like the 5 lug kit as you have a larger choice of wheels and widths without spending alot.

That's reason enough to make a run for it. Don't worry about it. I make over 500 rwhp and 500 rwtq in a 240 and don't have any problems. There are people making more in Z's without cages or of stiffening devices and are fine. The cars don't wrinkle up or twist into. Hell, Honda's are making 600-700 whp, some even more and don't self destruct.

I gotta ask.Why go down in displacement? Z32's are on the heavy side, and an extra 400cc would be nice off boost. I know people make just as much power with VG's as they do RB's.

Like Satan knocking on your door:icon54:. Actually like a fast metalic knock. Without a wideband there isn't a sure way to know if you are lean but I know I can run down up to 14:1 and not have det and have done it quite a few times messing with the AIC. I am pretty close to my boost limit without knock (within 2 -3 psi). Unless you were on verge of it before I don't think a leaning out is the problem. If they changed the timing maps and it doesn't pull as much timing under load that would for sure do it but you have been running this for a while. Have you got gas recently. Could be lower octane than what should have been in the pump. Could you make 10 psi before at 3500 rpm. Peak torque is were detonation would be most prevalant. Above that you can run more boost with less chance of it at the same psi.

You could fab up some mounts with these http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm. Nearly everyone in rockcrawling use these, keeps the motor intact even when you roll. They transmit a little more vibration at idle than stock mounts but I don't notuice the difference above that.

And to think I wasn't even going to enter but everyone said just enter, you get better parking and it's only $10. I never thought I would win, sorry to those that had nice paint and cleaner engines. It'll be painted this summer but you can't win 2 years in a row so 240Z modified is safe from me next year. dapiper.... You seemed pretty interested in the swap. If you want more info shoot me an email.

I've had 2 fail. One of them cost me a motor. I wouldn't trust a 30 year damper again.

18" tire prices are quite a bit more. Don't know if price is an issue. It keep me from running 18's

I used to tow my Z with a tandem axle trailer with my NapZ powered 4x4 D21. Anything would be better than that slug. I didn't have trailer brakes either. I would recomend brakes on one axle though.

I would guess your problem is with your toe setting. Even if you have the ride hight set really low I don't know if you can get enough camber in the front to cause wandering. Do the MSA camber plates allow adjustment without removing them? I can't see any slots on them.

I see that now,oops. In that case I run run atleast an 11" and run 315's.

Are you going to run flares or stock fenders.

You can always run additional injectors to get more fuel and have full control of fuel under boost. I am still running a stock ecu, although not a Nissan one but it still has a restrictive AFM.

I misunderstood the reason for the G tech. Retarding the cam timing favors top end while advancing it gives more bottom end. I like a turbo that makes full boost early too, but it's not possible to have both. My Z31 T feels real fast at half throttle as it makes full boost there but that's all it has and when I push more nothing more happens. It is a huge compromise. The torque falling off isn't just a function of the T3 but airflow. On a 1.6 liter it would be fine but on a 2.8 that isn't the most effecient and at higher boost levels it becomes a greater restriction.

There is more of a restriction in the turbine side of your turbo than the exhaust at your power level. You will lower your post turbo back pressure with a 3" but pre turbo it will still be too high for good top end. Small turbos designed for fast spool just don't flow enough and power suffers. An extra 500 rpms before peak boost for an extra 500 rpms of a usable power band and alot more power too, isn't a bad trade off. A G tech won't tell you if you are rich or lean. Spend the extra $150 on a wideband and not the G tech.

If you are going with a slick or DOT race tire I would go stiffer on the springs. I would also run Wilwoods in the rear, isn't much more. You will need a prop valve to get everything you can out of them too. I like having an adjustable front sway bar too, makes fine tuning easier than swaping springs.

Only the new GT R turbos need the restrictor. The single BB, T3 -T4 turbos that have the BB only on the front bearing are fine without a restrictor.

Summary I finally got back to the dyno. I messed with my AIC controls as I just put in a pair of 680's up from the 450's 2 days before and really messed up my fuel curve. I thought I had it good but testing in second gear doesn't give enough time on the wideband as I found out after a few 4th gear runs on the dyno. So it was pig rich on the top end. I didn't have alot of time to tune as it was a "dyno day" and I didn't want to be stingy and make everyone else wait. It wasn't too lean so I wasn't worried. Runs #11 and #13 are 28 psi runs. I tried 30 psi on the freeway on the way over and the clutch slipped bad so 28psi is about all I can with a 6 puck and stock PP. On run #15 I dropped the boost down to 24psi as I run that daily with H20. It was still rich but I wanted to see what I had everyday. If i can get the a/f's in the low 12's I should pick up another easy 50+HP.

8" Toyotas are 9-12 in/lbs. of preload. Nissan should be close to that. That is with out the carrier and ring gear in. You should be able to feel if it's tight by turning a little one way and then the other between the backlash before it contacts the ring gear. There won't be much movemant there will be a slight amount.

Some early 280 heads, can't remember the number, have bronze intake seats. They get pounded in till you can no longer adjust the valves. From what I understand is that lead is used to lubricate the valve guides and has nothing to do with the seats.

Sounds like a thermostat problem.

I use a bike pump with an accurate guage T-d in to test wastegate and other stuff. I would make sure it is not opening to soon. The WG shouls have some tension, enough to keep it firmly closed but you don't need to pull 1/2 the travle out of the diaphram. It should open at 7psi. The puck on the WG flapper could also be broken, missing or there could be a crack. Are you running the stock pressure relief/saftey valve still? It could be your problem too.