With my first Z I ran it in the 10's with the stock fuel line and a Mallory 110 pump. Put on larger fuel line , no faster. Just some real world results, no book learning.
Treausre the time with your Dad. Sounds like a great man. I lost my Mom on one of those 2am calls last year. Our parents were made of some tough stuff. My Dad went through the depression, WW2 , and rasing a couple of rotten rug rats. I can only hope to be as good as my folks.
How many of you killers have blown the bottom end out of a 2 bolt block? I am sure 99% of you guys really need a 4 bolt block. Oh yea, that 4 bolt block makes you so much faster.
In my Z before my current one I did a back half with 2X3 rails, a 4 link and the stock front suspension. Worked out pretty good, mid 9's on the back half Z. The new one with a full tube chassis wacked anothe second off the old back half set up. Put in a nine inch and don't worry about breaking the irs stuff.
A light car with a lot of H.P. and a butt load of gear multiplication is trouble. I run a 1.89 first with a 4.86 rear gear and it gets out of the way very well. Low to High, pretty simple.
DYNO'S , We don't need no stinking DYNO'S. Take off from treasure of the siera madra. Why worry about a dyno chart? The quarter mile is your dyno. If you went faster and quicker you must have done something right.
OK, if you are going to tub it narrow the rear housing. Go 4 link with the rear suspension. My rear housing is 24 1/2" axel flange to flange is 30". I run a 15X14 rim with 3 1/2" bs and a 32X14.5w hoosier slick with no fitment problems. Forget about the th400 and put a glide in it.
4 link is the way to go. I used the Chassisworks eliminator 2 set up. It has provisions for the antiroll bar and wheelie bars. Might as well use the wishbone also.
Called Ed Quay and ordered off their pro rear spoiler. Sent off a letter to MAS racing to get their catalog as I am in search of a glass one piece front end for the Z also.