synthtk

Congrats Stony!

The supra isolators are offset but not as much as the Dodge ones from what I recall. I ended up having to use the Supra ones due to oil pan clearance issues with the Dodge ones.

I wont try to go too far off topic, but where did you get your internal parts and what kind of price? I am wanting to do cams in my car and am looking for a good source. Why did you choose Tomei Procams vs the competition like HKS Step2? Nismoparts.com has the engine gasket rebuild kits for silly cheap if you are looking for OEM gasket kits. Thanks -Chris

Just to confirm everyone's suspicions, the Nismo and N1 pumps are different, the N1 pump flows the same as a stock pump, just with higher pressure, in fact I am pretty sure they are the same besides the spring. A Nismo pump is higher volume and higher pressure like the other after market pumps, however I do not recall the flow rates. I got my N1 pump from Nismoparts for dirty cheap.

The hood hinges are close to the 90° bends but you can trim them at angles to make it not hit, the 90° bends I used have been trimmed to fit at the angles I wanted. You will have to do some nice gutting of the stock core support for the 3" piping to pass through but it is very possible. The plastic ducting that is removed is actually for the fresh air vents in the car, they will still work without the ducting there as the hole in the fender/frame still exists. The first intercooler I tried (the one with the mid outlets) would not have worked without doing some modification to the wheel wells, so I just went with the top end tanks instead and removed the fresh air vent ducting. The radiator I am using is a 4 core actually, so far it runs fine with my N1 water pump and Nismo thermostat and electric fan, however I will probably switch to an aluminum doublepass radiator soon.

Not sure about the brake booster and master cyl, but the stock clutch master cyl will work fine with the RB25DET slave.

That is where I got my fuel rail extrusion from (Dash10), 2ft was plenty, I then picked up some weld on -10 AN bungs from Summit for cheap and had a buddy weld them on after I had my Dad's machine shop friend drill the injector ports, cut the rail to size and make some nifty CNC brackets which I modified to fit. Also, I am running the cheapy eBay IC, 24x12x4" core (31" wide) with 3" top in/outs, I used some 3" silicon 90° bends. It will pass through the stock core support using 3" piping with some heavy modification... I ended up cutting mine out and remaking it since it was bent and twisted from an accident at some point in the cars life. More pics can be found in the gallery linked in my sig.

:burnout:Awesome, can't wait to see more vids.

Awesome, be sure to get some pics and share. What size piping and style of muffler did you go with?

TiAL BOV's have different internal springs available, they go by color codes and a PSI rating (not boost PSI), Mine had a 11 PSI (unpainted) when I got it and now use a 9 PSI (white) but, the BOV still seems to hardly open and most of the time air surges out the turbos on low boost (5psi and under?). More info, http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_bov50_sp.pdf My guess is you have an 11PSI as it is what is most commonly sold with the BOV, I was just wondering if you had changed it or were running the 11 PSI one without problems. I had never had an issue on my old DSM and its been a bit frustrating thus far. Thanks -Chris

Looks great as always. Very Jealous.

How much are stock MAFs going for? I have two available.

Hey stony, where are you going to hook the BOV vacuum line to? Also do you know which spring your BOV uses? Thanks -Chris

Surprisingly, the exhaust is not too loud, although I was used to driving it around with basically open downpipes.....

So after being at near tears every time I drove the car for the past few months due to the exhaust fumes entering the cabin, I decided it was time to build a real exhaust system. Originally my neighbor provided me some 4" piping off a diesel bus originally (free w00t!) but this was just too big for the car so I went ahead and went with a 3.5" system. I bought almost everything from Summit Racing and it cost me around $200 for everything except the stock Skyline downpipe, I ended up getting the tip and hanger from Autozone because those parts were delayed from Summit. Off the turbos I used parts of the piping off the stock downpipe, mainly the flanges and some of the 2.25" tubing to come down under the car. From that point the 2.25" piping goes into a 2.25" to 2.5" adapter which then goes into the 2x2.5" to 3.5" Y collector. From the collector back to the exhaust I use 3.5" piping to a 3.5" straight through exhaust to a bling bling Autozone "clamp on" muffler tip which is 4". There are two bends from some 3.5" piping my neighbor gave me, into and out of the muffler, but other than that its all angle cut straight pipe. Y-Collector is a 2.5" to 3.5" Flowmaster with Summit part #: FLO-Y250350 Muffler is 3.5" straight through 14" long Stainless Steel MagnaFlow with Summit part #: MPE-14161 Piping is 3.5" 4' long aluminized steel with Summit part #: SUM-640035, I got two of these. Reducers are Dynomax 2.25" to 2.5" with Summit part #: WLK-41961, I got two of these. Tip is a random Autozone special 2.75 "clamp on" to 4" tip. Hangers are universal autozone hangers, I got one with a rubber loop at one end and metal L and then one that has a rubber strap to metal on both ends for welding/bolting to the body/piping. Unfortunately what I forgot to get was some 3.5" flanges... so the exhaust at this point is one complete piece, which is a huge PITA to put on, the next time I order from summit I will get two sets of flanges to break the exhaust into 3 pieces. At that same time I will paint it with high-temp black paint. Downpipe side done, using the flanges, piping (angles changed), and flex pipe from the Skyline downpipe. To get some additional clearance between the collector and the transmission I ground down some extra webbing on the transmission. Piping to the end of the differential. The piping has a good 1" spacing around the body pan underneath. Finished product, for the tip I cut off the back off that had the neck down section to the "clamp on" section and welded it onto a slight bend coming off muffler. There is one hanger at front of the muffler that bolts to the fuel cell cradle and then another by the exhaust tip that goes to the stock muffler mounting position behind the rear bumper. The unfortunate part of this? It was getting late in the day and I was getting tired so when aligning the tip to come out I forgot to take into consideration that the car was sitting at an angle, so now the tip comes out at a funky angle... project for a future date. Under body shot, the exhaust definitely the lowest point on the car but I have not had any problems with scraping except once coming out of a steep driveway. More photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rb240z/20070930Exhaust While I have done most of the fab in this swap project except the aluminum bits I am far from a pro welder so yeah the welds aren't the prettiest things in the world, but not bad considering I am using a Harbor Freight MIG welder I think.

infinitymachining@shaw.ca is what I used to contact Rick

Ok so here we go... Here is a shot of the rear of the R33 Speedo, the screws are the terminals we are interested in, the 4 terminals, clockwise from upper left, correspond to SIG (signal from VSS), ECU (signal to ECU), IGN (+12v), GND (-). You may want to double check your board, the SIG and GND should be easily readable but IGN and ECU were pretty well obscured if I recall correctly. In order for the ECU to get the correct speed reading it has to pass through the speedo, the speedo handles the calibration and changes the signal quite a bit. The tach is a bit easier to figure out as all of its connections are easily read from the board. Unfortunately I do not remember the order they go in, but you will have a SIG (from ECU), IGN (+12v) and GND (-). In this picture you can see how I trimmed down the gauge and attached it to the inner ring of the stock Datsun pod. I just used superglue to glue the faces down to the ring and then I glued in the sections of gauge face for the L-R turn signals and hi-beam into the spot which normally would house the Skyline's stock boost gauge on the tach and then the e-brake on the speedo. The items covered in the copper looking metallic tape are pea bulbs which work pretty well to illuminate the needle and parts of the gauge face but I think I am going to switch to a ring of LEDs to get the lighting more consistent. The lower right shows the block that I made out of plastic to hold the 3 different pea lights for the L, R and hi-beam indicators. The plastic is roughly .5" thick and has a small through hole which the bulb fits in, which is then counter sunk to give the correct illumination size of the indicator then I painted that counter sunk area white to add additional reflectivity. Here is a shot of the tach wired, all of the pealights and grounds were tired to the ground terminal on the board, various other wires were run for power for the L, R, hi-beam, illumination of needle and then the other signal wires were pulled out in a molex connector and the stock 4 pin connector. I kept IGN and I believe a GND in the stock connector. This is what the completed tach looks like from the back, like I mentioned the new wires are pulled out from the molex connector and the stock 4 pin was used to provide IGN and GND. To get illumination to the pea bulbs I cut off the ends of the stock datsun bulbs and then wired them to their corresponding wire in the molex connector. + for L, R, illumination. +/- for hi-beam, ran a wire to the ecu for tach, ran a pigtail off the back for IGN to goto the speedo, and then tied some grounds to the dash mounting. I kept the 2 illumination bulbs from the stock tach, they help light up the face but it is pretty inconsistent. The tach installed, with engine running, hazards on along with hi-beam. Here is the speedo installed with its illumination on and the e-brake pulled. I ended up having to use the e-brake indicator from a z32 300zx because I scratched up the one on the Skyline cluster which I thought looked a lot nicer. Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the speedo wired up from the back, I will try to get some this weekend or coming week, but a molex was used for the wires and then a pigtail from the tach provided IGN. Illumination was pulled from cutting off the ends to one of the Datsun bulbs and then wiring it to the pea lights. +/- was proved to the pea light for the e-brake from cutting off the end of the e-brake bulb and wiring it in. I ran new wires from the VSSto the speedo and then from the speedo to the ECU. Unfortunately, the speedo does not have its rear metal cover on it because the casing is smaller than the tach's overall and it hits the back of the PCB on the speedo, I will have to make some sort of custom enclosure I think, right now it is just kinda stuffed into the pod hole but sits there nicely and does not move. I have not yet done the calibration to set the speedo in MPH but will be doing that soon. Here are both gauges installed and being used. You can see how I trimmed out the stock Datusn pod on the speedo to allow use of the odometer reset, if you did not want this you could just cut that piece off and not have to trim the pod. I had to trim the clear plastic and the black outer cup for it to pass through and be usable. If you guys have any questions ask away, I can try to get better pictures (esp of the speedo) if you want. Here are some more pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rb240z/20071013SkylineGauges Hope this helps

The ROSS Tuffbond Metal Jacket for a R33 RB26 is approx $540 USD, freight would take about 5 days according to them and cost is dependent on where it is going. I would guess their other RB dampers are a similar price. They are out of the R33 and R32 dampers for the next 3 weeks or so. The unit looks very nice from their website.

There are a few pics of what I did in here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rb240z/20070506Driveshaft

The cheapest price I have found the race version of the ATI was at Summit for $486, which isn't so bad but I would not mind other options. I sent ROSS Tuffbond an email inquiring about cost and shipping to the states for their R33 dampener. Sending you a PM about the bolt

It is hard to be disappointed with the Rick Wong mounts, they are beautifully made.

To change the rear flange I used a "heavy duty" 71 240z yoke, it was like $8 from Kragen. I had to bore out the holes on the drive shaft side to fit the 240z yoke ends and shave the tabs on the drive shaft a bit to fit the c-clips in all the way. The c-clips are mounted on the inside of the yoke. A drive shaft shop would probably have a better way to do this.

I also got mine from eBay, it was right around 100 with shipping. I will post up more pics and info tonight when I get home

So, I somewhat finished my R33 GT-S gauges into the S30 pods, I have not recalibrated the Speedo for MPH yet, so it looks like I am racking up an impressive number of miles on the car. I ended up putting the E-Brake light in the concave area of the Speedo and then using the L-Hi Beam-R section of the GT-S cluster in the concave area of the Tach where the stock turbo gauge normally would be. The only thing I have not completely finished yet is fitting a rear can onto the speedo since the stock speedo casing is much shorter than the tach, right now the speedo is just kind of wedged into its area but it does not move so this may end up being how it sits for awhile. If anyone is interested I can post up pics of what they look like and diagrams of what pins do what on the R33 speedo/tach.

My R34 RB25DET driveshaft + Infinity mounts was the perfect length after I changed the rear flange to the one that matches an R200, I have about 3/10ths of play in the driveshaft.