zcarnut

The [rare] R180 CV axles from a 2+2 automatic ZX or a set from the first generation Maxima (1981 to 1985) will fit the R180 diff that uses a snap ring to secure the input shaft of the CV axle (where it goes into the diff). Is your R180 like that? All of the 115mm LSD's used the snap ring. You have to use the round, six-bolt CV type companion flange piece on your stub axle as well. However, if you are using the adjustable outer control arm bushings to adjust the rear camber/toe, then this adjustment moves the outer stub axle housing closer to the diff to correct the negative camber that results from lowering the early Z cars. As a result the R180 CV axles will bind (as they will be too long). To solve this problem you can disassemble the R180 CV axle and replace the center shaft with a shorter one from an R200 CV axle. This is what I had to do. This is a lot more work (and money), but I was determined to use CV axles with my R180 diff. Some related threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98212 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97309

I stand corrected!

I’ve never heard of any reputable Nissan engine re-builder recommend using the external cam oiler along with an internally oiled cam. My guess is that the external oil tube would be almost worthless with an internally drilled cam because of the lack of oil pressure in the tube. The internally drilled cam is a significant “oil leak”.

Nissan went away from the external cam oiler on the L28 heads starting in Feb of 1977 (2/77). All of the aftermarket cams I have seen are internally drilled for oiling (i.e., no external cam tube needed). To use a internally drilled cam (like an aftermarket one) in a head that had an external oil rail you _must_ plug up the holes (passages) in the cam towers that fed the external oil rail. What I do is to tap the holes with a 6mm x 1.0mm tap and them use a short screw to plug the hole. However, Nissan Motorsports recommends using the external cam oiling rail with any cam (better oiling). To accomplish this with a cam that is internally drilled requires plugging the feel holes in the cam with epoxy (e.g., JB Weld).

After obtaining a 280ZX rear lower control arm and with the stub axle for evaluation it appears that the Z31 stub axle (with the Z31 wheel bearings and inner seal) will indeed fit into the 280ZX rear lower control arm housing without modifications! Because the Z31 stub axle is tapered, use the Z31 distance piece (bearing spacer) as the Z31 “B†spacer is the same length (55.95mm) as the ZX “M†spacer. If your 280ZX rear lower control arm housing needs the “N†length spacer (55.85mm) use the corresponding Z31 “A†spacer and if you require the “P†length spacer (56.05mm) use the corresponding Z31 “C†spacer. This opens up a lot of possibilities for 280ZX applications as the Z31 stub axle came in three different varieties: a four-lug hub, a five-lug hub and a five-lug hub that used a vented rotor (which has a thicker wheel mounting flange). Utilizing either the turbo or the non-turbo Z31 companion flange you can use either the ZX CV axles (3 bearing joint) or the stronger Z31 turbo CV axles (with the 5 bearing joint). Strange but I noticed that the diameter of the ZX stub axle is actually smaller (30mm vs. 32mm) than the first generation 1970-78 Z cars. The Z31 stub axle starts out at a 30mm diameter but then it tapers out to a diameter of 35mm where the wheel flange is. Nice upgrade. I still think that using the Z31 stub axle will result in the wheel mounting flange being pushed further away from the axle housing. Partly because the Z31 wheel flange is thicker and if you use the Z31 stub axle that had the vented rear rotor this offset is even more. As a result this will cause the brake rotor not to align with the caliper opening. But you could probably shim the caliper out accordingly (I did not look into this detail). Too bad the Z31 stub axles can’t be used in the first generation Z car stub axle housing without machine shop work.

The above number is from the book “How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine” by Tom Monroe. However, the book “How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine” by Frank Honsowetz has the cam tower bolt spec at only “10 to 13 ft-lbs”, quite a difference! As these bolts thread into aluminum, I feel the smaller torque spec would be the safer one to use.

Only the Maxima sedans (IRS) had rear disc brakes. The station wagon Maxima used a solid axle in the rear with drums.

I always like to change the input shaft seal on the tranny. Especially if there is any sign of fluid leakage. Also, don't forget to inspect the friction surface of the flywheel to see if it needs re-surfacing.

Before everyone gets excited about this, Snopes is looking into it: http://www.snopes.com/media/notnews/brothel.asp And their comments: “...We remain skeptical about the literal truth of the version reported in the English press, however, because the issue seems to have received scant attention in the German press (at least that we can find).... ...We suspect this is another case where, like a game of "telephone," a story has been garbled as it has passed from one news source to the next, and somewhere in the rewriting and translating process what was originally discussed as a mere hypothetical possibility has now been reported as a factual occurrence....”

You did say that you were using the R200 LSD? Right? Reason I ask is that Nissan used a “thrust block” on the later R200's to limit the distance that the CV axle flange can be inserted into the diff. It’s a piece that slides over the differential pinion gear’s axle shaft. The CV axles bottom out on this thrust block. However, the LSD did not use this thrust block because it has four pinion gears and there is no room for it.

Thanks for the reply zxtman. However, because of the different diameters of the Z31 and the S130 stub axles, I can’t understand why the you can use a S130 bearing (inner or outer) on a Z31 stub axle. I guess I will have to investigate this more fully. As I do not have a 280ZX rear crossmember readily available, I will have to wait until I make my next trip to see Roger at the Z Barn. One last question zxtman: When I did a mock up using the Z31 stub axle I noticed that the wheel flange protruded about 3mm more beyond the lower control arm. Partly because the Z31 wheel flange is thicker. As a result this caused the brake rotor not to align with the caliper opening. You would have to shim the caliper out accordingly. Did you have such a brake issue with your conversion?

For the same cost and effort a better solution is the 1986-88 Toyota 4x4 caliper (4 piston) with a 1985-89 Maxima rotor and a 280ZX hub. No need to reduce the diameter of the Maxima rotor. You just have to get the rotor re-drilled to fit the ZX hub. Junkyard parts are OK.

Are you referring to this? http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html However, IMHO changing to a single piston sliding caliper and reducing the diameter of a rotor is not an “upgrade”. I suggest you use the Search feature and research the numerous brake upgrades that have been already discussed here. You are only limited by your wallet size

What instructions did you follow? Here is a procedure I came up several years ago: Converting a 240Z to an internal regulator alternator Because I don't like to give instructions without some explanation of what you are doing (it makes troubleshooting easier), I will start by describing the internally regulated alternator's electrical connections: An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out. However, if the L connection is connected directly to 12V supply, when you attempt to turn the engine off, the alternator will supply power to the switched 12V loads and the engine will continuing to run even you turn the key to the OFF position! To prevent this from occurring an electronic component called a diode will be used. Obtain a 1N5062 (or equivalent) diode from your local electronics supply company. A diode has two leads, an anode lead and a cathode lead. The cathode lead is identified by a band near that lead. Diodes will only allow current to flow in one direction. We will connect the diode so that only the excitation current will flow into the alternator's L connection. An "S" connection which goes as close to the positive terminal of the battery as physically possible. The "S" connection "senses" the battery voltage and this is the voltage that the regulator is tying to control. This connection has a high impedance, so it only draws only micro amps from the battery, so it can be left connected without fear of battery discharging. The "L" and "S" connections are in the plug connector on the rear of the alternator that looks like the capital letter "T". The top of the "T" is the "S", and the other part of the "T" is the "L". An "A" terminal, which is the output of the alternator, which also is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. This connector carries the charging current. Because of the high currents this wire must carry, it is a low gauge wire, which means it has a large cross sectional area. For safety reasons, a fusible link should be in series with this connector. The "A" terminal is the insulated threaded stud on the rear of the alternator. Of course, someone may ask: "Why do you need two separate (the "S" and the "A") connections between the battery and alternator?". It is because of the fact that even large wires have some resistance, and therefore there will be a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery when the battery is being charged. If the regulator sensed the alternator output (which is higher in voltage) and not the battery terminal, the result would be undercharging of the battery. Now there are alternators which work this way, but they need a fairly large diameter charging wire to reduce the voltage drop. The separate "S" connection is a much better method of regulation. BTW, There is a "P" terminal on the 280ZX turbo alternator (but I have also seen it on a few of the non-turbo 280ZX alternators). There is not a corresponding connector on the engine harness to mate with the "P" terminal, even on the turbo 280ZX's. So, the "P" terminal is not used/needed. Finally, there is a ground connection on the alternator, although the case is a pretty good ground connection to the engine block. Procedure Now, the following procedure only applies to the 240Z. The 260Z has electrical connections between the regulator and the interlock module and the electric fuel pump, so it's more difficult to convert to an internally regulated alternator. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code. 3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. 4. Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. 5. Disconnect and unbolt your old alternator. Bolt up the new alternator. Depending on what particular internally regulated alternator you use (I've seen different pulley sizes), you might need a different length belt. 6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator. 7. Re-connect the battery and start the engine. With a good digital voltmeter measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. This is the charging voltage. It should be 14.7V +/- 0.3V, but this voltage is a function of the ambient temperature and the state of charge of the battery. If the voltage reading is not correct, then re-check your wiring. More than 15.0V indicates that the "S" connection may not be connected correctly.

What wheel bearings (part numbers please) did you use? I looked into this before. The Z31 stub axle uses a smaller diameter bearing (30mm vs 32mm shaft OD) for the inner wheel bearing and a larger diameter bearing (35mm vs 32mm shaft OD) for the outer bearing when compared to the 280ZX stub axle. I could not find a set of standard bearings that would work. Please enlighten us!

Also used in the Nissan Patrol. BTW, Nissan makes a wide range of diesel powerplants: http://www.blairs.co.nz/diesel/diesel4.html http://www.ijasa.com/paginas/nissan.htm

Before you give up, ask Ross at Modern Motorsports http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/ if anyone has used his Z31 Turbo companion flange adapters on a 280ZX. He makes this adapter piece that is welded to the U-joint type companion flange and has the correct bolt pattern for the Z31 Turbo CV axle. Ross’s kit is for the earlier S30 Z cars, so the concern is whether or not the length of the Z31 CV axle would cause a problem in the 280ZX (S130).

No. Although the Z31 Turbo axles will fit into any R200 diff, they are longer in length and require using the Z31 Turbo companion flange. And you can’t just swap companion flanges as the Z31 (both turbo and NA) uses a stub axle with a larger spline diameter than the S130 (it's even larger than the 280Z stub axle).

Two excellent books: “Theory and Practice of Cylinder Head Modification” by David Vizard. and: “Practical Gas Flow” (subtitled: “Techniques for Performance Porting” ) by John Dalton.

I did not mean for my post to start an argument, Mack. I was referring to the early LD28 engine used in the 1981-84 Maxima, not the later ones used in several (mainly international) applications and not the “industrial” version shown in the above web site. I do not think you have be an expert diesel mechanic in order to make a simple observation about these engines. Cylinder liners are (or were) available for the early LD28 block but these are for service reconditioning of a worn block. I conclude that sometime during the long production run of the LD28 engine Nissan probably started installing cylinder liners at the factory.

What makes you think the LD28 (diesel) block has cylinder liners? I have disassembled five LD28 engines (to get the crank) and I have never seen any liners.

Your question is somewhat confusing... The 280ZX used three different axles: 1. The U-joint axle 2. The R200 CV axle 3. The R180 CV axle The 280ZX turbo only used the R200 CV axle (because they had the R200 diff). The R180 CV axles were somewhat rare being used on only the later NA 2+2 automatics. Every other ZX got the U-joint axles. So are you asking what is different between the R200 CV axle and the R180 CV axle? If you are, then the answer is the difference between a R200 CV axle and a R180 CV axle is the flange piece which fits into the differential and the length of the center shaft. The R180 CV axle has a 26mm OD flange shaft and the R200 has a larger shaft that is 32mm in diameter. BTW, it is more difficult to visually spot the difference between the 280ZX [CV] turbo axle and a NA Z31 CV axle. The center shaft length is different, as NA Z31 uses a longer center shaft. The Z31 sheet metal end cap spring holder protrusion on the wheel flange is smaller than the corresponding one on the ZX turbo axle, but I‘m not convinced that Nissan only used the smaller protrusion on the Z31's. The turbo Z31 CV axle is very different from the Z31 NA axle.

25 to 33 ft-lbs.