zcarnut

The 1990 and 1991 Z32 300ZX used a 1 and 1/16" (17/16") diameter master cylinder. This fits the “later style†brake booster bolt pattern that Nissan switched over to starting in 1982. The 1982 and 83 ZX boosters will accept this master cylinder and this booster will bolt into the 1974-81 Z cars. One thing about the Z32 master cylinder is that it has the proportioning valve built into the master cylinder. This may or may not be something you want. The 1992 through 1995 Subaru SVX (without ABS) also used a 1 and 1/16" master and this master does not have a internal proportioning valve so it would be a better swap for the earlier Z cars. I realize that the SUX’s are a rare find in the junkyards, but you might get lucky. Here’s a picture of the Subaru master I got at a boneyard: Nissan reduced the diameter of the later Z32 master cylinders to an even 1". There is no 240SX nor any Nissan Truck that uses a 1 and 1/16" size master cylinder.

Thanks very much for the compliment! I received numerous comments from the Z Days attendees. I also got the “trophy girl” to pose with my 810:

That’s entirely possible. Of course a 3mm (.120in) overbore can be never be risk free. A sonic measurement for core shifting is always recommended before the boring operation. In my instance I had a spare N42 280Z engine gathering dust in the corner of my garage so I decided to use it along with a spare diesel crank to create a “true†3.0 liter engine by going to a 87mm bore. This would be a 4mm overbore of the L24E block. Something I did not want to risk. Where I live the supply of excess L28 blocks is far more plentiful than the L24E.

I’ve rebuilt about a dozen Z car L-series engines and changed out an additional twenty some head gaskets over the last 30 years. I have always re-used the original head bolts unless one had corrosion damage (rust pitting) on it. I have never had a problem with a head bolt that has been re-used. In 1972 Nissan improved the strength of the head bolt and the new bolt was identifiable by a ring (or recess) around the top of the bolt. I would definitely change out any of the early head bolts with these later ones or the turbo head bolts. The turbo head bolts have a “13" stamped on the top of the head bolt and can the torque can be increased to 60 ft-lbs. However, I always install new rod bolts during a rebuild as the consequences of a failed rod bolt are far more severe than a “stretched†head bolt.

It just keeps water away from the ball joint nut to prevent possible corrosion of the ball joint stud threads.

The most accurate way is to remove the rear cover of the diff and inspect the ring gear. The ratio is imprinted on the outside edge of the ring gear. There will two numbers like 37:9 which means that there are 37 teeth on the ring gear and 9 teeth on the pinion gear for a ratio of 4.11. Other ratios are: 39:10____3.90 37:10____3.70 39:11____3.54 37:11____3.36

Only six bolts are necessary to secure the pressure plate. That's all Nissan used with the stock parts. Fidanza probably used nine holes to handle either the 225mm pressure plate or the 240mm pressure plate.

I’ll check the ones in my parts car, Steve. It had a red interior, although they can be painted to match your interior. Since my 810 is garage kept I don't think I will need an extra set. The sun's UV rays can really damage these pieces. Let me know if you need anything else. BTW, have you checked with Norman at OEM Surplus? http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/

Thanks Davy. I like the low rpm torque of the NA stroker engines (I have a 3.1 liter in my 260Z). The problem with putting a turbo on the 810 is that there is no room for a front mounted intercooler which would limit the boost somewhat. However' date=' I did met someone who had swapped an entire stock L28T drivetrain into his 810 (without an intercooler). It’s interesting that so many items swap between the 810 and the 280ZX. Front crossmember, lower control arms, T/C rods, rear crossmember, driveline components, etc. Since the 810 came out in 1977, two years before the ZX, I like to think that Nissan started with the 810 platform when the ZX was being designed. I’m fortunate to live only twenty miles from the Z Barn. Roger Schmidt has several disassembled 810's in his yard (as well as 200+ ZX’s!) so it was very straightforward to compare parts. Here’s the progress so far on my steering rack installation: [img']http://home.earthlink.net/~zcarfan/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/810steering_rack.jpg[/img] I’m using a spare engine with an 810 crossmember with the rack brackets from a 280ZX in the picture of the mock up. I used the ZX rack to position the brackets before welding. Clearance around the exhaust downpipe will be tight, but possible.

The frame alignment diagram in the FSM has 853mm (33.58 inches or 33 and 9/16 inches) as the dimension from the center to center of the rear strut tower center holes.

I have seen where people installed the pilot bushing incorrectly by using just a hammer to drive it into the rear of the crank. This caused the bushing to “bellmouth†reducing its internal diameter enough that the tranny input shaft was binding during assembly. The proper method is to use a correctly sized bearing/bushing insertion tool with the hammer. Yeah. Most of those plastic clutch alignment tools fit too loose into the pilot bushing. This results in the clutch disc sagging down under its own weight when the alignment tool is inserted into the pilot bushing. Always confirm that the clutch disc is centered by measuring the distances to the diaphragm fingers with a caliper. I always eyeball the clutch disc center hole with the bushing after the pressure plate bolts have been snugged down and the alignment tool has been removed. It’s amazing how accurate you can determine the centered location of the disc.

They are a lock nut but usually it’s rust that makes disassembly difficult. Soak them overnight with WD-40 or similar. Use a 6-point box end and watch your knuckles. However, the best way to remove these bolts is from below the car with an impact wrench and a long ½" drive extension.

Also, the 1974 2+2 260Z had the same ratios except it had a R200 diff.

Decking, magnafluxing, and line boring the crank journals on an L-series block that will only see street duty is unnecessary, IMO. I have re-built about a dozen L-series engines (including two strokers) and I have never had to resort to any of these procedures. The only blueprinting “frill†I do is to have the reciprocating parts dynamically balanced. Block deck unevenness can be measured with a machinist straight edge. If the crankshaft bearings show an uneven wear pattern then you can measure the crank journals (and crank) for straightness (see “How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engineâ€). In the text “The Design and Tuning of Competition Engines†the author states in the excellent chapter on the L-series engine: “The Datsun cylinder block is outstanding for its strength. The quality control is well above average at the [Datsun] factory and align boring and deck milling can be bypassed by a person building an engine on a budget.†If you want to Magnaflux something, then concentrate on the more stressed items like rods and the crankshaft. Nissan blocks do not have a reputation for cracking (heads, however, do). I have seen a few problems caused by unnecessary machine shop work. Remember the old saying, why “fix†something that aint’ broke. Parts for these engines are very expensive. Save your money for items like a new harmonic damper and new connecting rod bolts.

FYI Jon; The copper washer is positioned directly under the companion flange on _top_ of the inner wheel bearing (not underneath it) so it does not add to the spacer length. So what does the copper washer accomplish? Well, according to Nissan Technical Service Bulletin #TS72-06 (dated Jan 12, 1972), the copper washer was added to

The mystery axle reminds me of the CV axle from the front of a 4x4 Nissan truck or Pathfinder. Flat dust cover on the diff end, a tripod bearing on the diff side and a Rzeppa joint on the wheel side. You do live in Norway, so it could be a Nissan axle that we Americans are not familiar with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7978316306&category=33553

There is an o-ring that should be replaced in the piston. Disassembly is fairly straightforward. You should get the o-ring seal you need in the re-build kit. Also, there’s actually a tiny air vent hole at the end of the piston that usually clogs up with dirt that needs to be inspected. Clean it out with a welding tip file if necessary.

Additional info from my club web site: http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#bearings

As long as the nick doesn’t make contact with the seal it will be OK. Measure how far the (top of the) seal groove is from the bottom of the caliper bore and compare this to where the nick is on the piston. The piston is designed to bottom out when pressed completely into the caliper bore. Looking at your picture and from what I remember (when I last re-built a Z car caliper), you should be fine.

It's simple....Just swap the pinion flange with an R180 one that matches the driveshaft.

I agree with Jon. On my early 260Z I had binding with my front mounted rear bar. In addition it would wear out the plastic end link bushings on a regular basis. The rear mounted bar is much better in this respect. Just keep in mind that the rear mounted bar is shorter in effective length than the front. This has the effect of making the bar appear to be slightly larger in diameter. In other words, a 7/8" rear mounted bar will allow more weight transfer (increase oversteer) than a 7/8" front mounted bar. The only problem with the rear mounted bar is the lack of clearance with the 280ZX CV axles.

OK, OK.... You guys are correct! I admit it. I don’t recall ever lubing the threads of my Harbor Freight leveler. Funny, I _do_ lube my spring compressors every time I use them, and I have owned them for over 30 years!