zcarnut

I only used my Harbor Freight engine leveler about six times before the threads in the piece that moves (when you turn the handle) stripped out. Lousy Chinese crap! Great tool to have and I won’t pull an engine without it, but buy a better quality one. They do exist.

Sounds like the bearing in the idler adjuster pulley (not the AC compressor) is bad. Very common problem. BTW, the AC compressor does not share a belt with anything else. If you do not want the AC then you can simply remove the AC belt.

You can also lube the inner tie rods (which few people are aware of) by removing the inside boot clamp and sliding the rack spacer stop away from the tie rod end to uncover the lube hole. Screw in a Zerk fitting and pump with grease. You have to remove the Zerk fitting afterwards because the spacer will interfere with it.

The racks are easy to differentiate. Early [1970-73] rack has an aluminum body while the later [1974-78] rack is steel. The early and later racks are interchangeable provide you swap the corresponding rack bushings.

One difference between the earlier Nissan L-series engines and the later VG and KA series engines is the location of the water thermostat with respect to the water flow through the radiator. The L-series engine has the thermostat at the water outlet of the block (or the inlet of the radiator) while in the VG and KA engines the thermostat is located at the water inlet of the engine (or the outlet of the radiator). Can anyone shed some light as to why Nissan moved the thermostat? One advantages I can think of is that by placing the thermostat at the inlet of the engine allows you to use a lower temperature thermostat (a typical VG thermostat is rated some 10 degrees less than a typical L-series one). This would allow the thermostat to open sooner, assuming equal thermostat masses. The thermostat is rated at a lower temperature because of the temperature drop across the radiator. I can think of two reasons _not_ to re-locate the thermostat. First is that you are regulating the temperature of the water entering the engine instead of the temperature of the water leaving the engine which I would think would be a better indication of the heat being generated by the engine. Second would be that the radiator would receive water at a higher temperature and pressure, thus placing more stress on the radiator. Or maybe it doesn’t really matter where the thermostat is located? Opinions anyone?

No. The poster was asking about coil output _voltage_. A more important parameter to use when comparing ignition systems is spark _energy_ which is proportional to the gap sustaining voltage times the gap current times the duration of the spark. In general, the more energy that is delivered the longer the duration is. Longer duration sparks ignite the mixture better and can even increase the peak cylinder pressure slightly so that more power is produced. Aftermarket ignition systems can have the potential to increase the spark energy above the stock system. This can be accomplished by increasing the peak primary current in the coil which increases the energy stored in the coil. To handle this increase in current then requires more robust power transistors and an improved coil to handle the current increase without overheating. Also important is the voltage rise time of the gap voltage. It is well known that a fast voltage rise time will fire even a fouled sparkplug (a plug with a lot of carbon deposits on the electrode). The rise time is significant because if it is too slow then the fouling on the plug electrode will drain away the energy before an arc forms. This is why capacitive discharge ignition (CDI) systems were developed. There is a lot of hype and marketing associated with ignition system claims. For additional info I suggest the following web sites: http://www.rmlautomotive.com/ignition.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/JET_AV8R/Vision/Ignition/CDI.HTML

Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7975170412 Sounds like it is just a capacitor that is connected across your battery terminals!

How much voltage a coil can produce is a bogus parameter that has been used to sell aftermarket ignition systems for years. The voltage that a spark plug gap will break down at is mainly determined by the gap size and the pressure inside the cylinder at the instant of the spark. Secondary factors include gap geometry and electrode temperatures. It is not a function of the ignition system. The firing voltage for a typically gapped OEM plug is only 10kV to 18kV. Once the arc forms the voltage across the gap drops to the sustaining voltage necessary to maintain the arc which is no more than a few hundred volts. I have seen claims by aftermarket vendors with ridiculous figures such as 50 or even 60 kV. This is the maximum voltage the test coil generated in a lab on a bench and has little bearing on anything in the real world. There is a limit to the voltage anyways. Too much secondary voltage will deteriorate secondary wires, cause carbon tracing is the distributor and even damage the electronics used in the switching circuitry.

My 240Z and 260Z have a single key which unlocks the doors _and_ operates the ignition. The four digit key code is imprinted on the door locks. So, all you have to do is remove a door panel and pull one of the door locks. Like Warren said, any good locksmith can look up the code and cut you a key.

Nissan changed the bolt circle diameter of the R180 ring gear from the 110mm to115mm in August of 1976. Since the LSD differential housing bolts to the ring gear the R180 LSD changed as well. In addition the method of securing the axle shafts into the LSD changed from a bolt to an internal C-clip. Based on what you said earlier, I would assume that you have the later type of R180 LSD. This is good because you can use bolt your LSD into any R180 made after 8/76. You are only limited by what ratio you want. For a list of R180 (and R200) ratios see: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html However, if you want to do the CV swap then I would locate the R180 CV axles from either a 2+2 automatic 280ZX or a set from the first generation Maxima (1981 to 1985). These will snap into your R180 LSD. I think even the mid ‘80's 200SX used the R180 CV axles also. You have to use the round, six-bolt CV type companion flange piece on your stub axle as well. (Of course you can only use the 240Z stub axles, but your 260 should already have them.) You can get this from the same 2+2 automatic 280ZX or first generation Maxima. You can even use the R180 differential as well, so you can get everything from a single donor car.

The U-joints are pressed in. You need at least a 10 ton hydraulic press to remove/install them without damage. If you do not have a press, then just take the axles and the new u-joints to your local automotive machine shop. It will be money well spent.

Here’s some pics (click on the thumbnails): Just re-painted with re-chromed bumpers and door handles, new front and rear glass, NOS grill and headlight trim, NOS taillights and new weather striping all around. I installed a set of new 15" 1984 Z31 wheels with 215/60 series tires. The interior and trunk were completely re-upholstered and new carpet was added. I also added a rear spoiler to the truck lid and I decided to compress the gas shock-absorbers that hold the bumpers on by releasing the gas. I then compressed them fully in and secured them in their fully-in position. This brought the bumpers in closer to the body, improving the appearance of the car. The shocks were replaced with performance aftermarket ones and I discovered that the later Maxima front sway bar was thicker in diameter and bolted right up to my 810. I also cut off a single turn from the front springs to lower the front end by about one inch. I wanted rear disc brakes and I found that the entire rear suspension clip from a 280ZX simply bolted on in place of the 810 rear suspension clip. Very convenient and it also allowed me to use the ZX rear sway bar. For the front brakes I modified some '86-'88 Maxima vented front rotors so they would fit the front hubs and used this combination along with some 1986 Toyota 4-piston calipers. A 280ZX master cylinder and proportioning valve were also installed. I also changed the rear axles to 280ZX CV type and installed a CV type R180 diff. Other modifications include adding the cruise control mechanism from a 280ZX ( I put the interior control unit in where the 810 digital clock originally was) and greatly upgrading the audio system. I am presently working on installing a 280ZX rack and pinion steering setup. The plan is to weld the rack and pinion brackets to the 810 front crossmember. Another 810 owner I know accomplished this on his four-door 810. For the engine upgrade I installed a 3.0 liter displacement engine by boring an L28 block 1mm over and using the Maxima diesel crankshaft, 9mm 240Z rods and milled Z22 pistons. To handle the increase in engine size I will be using the 240SX throttle body, N42 intake and a the mass air flow meter and ECU from a Z31. The L28 block required some machine shop work to relocate the oil sump pickup tube. My VIN is 002536 and the production date is 11/78. It is a five speed. Finding parts during the restoration was always a challenge, but I did eventually locate and purchase another two-door 810 "parts car". Roger Schmidt, at the Z Barn, has several four door 810's for parts as well. I estimate that I have spent at least $5,000 over the last six years on my 810. Sorry to be so long winded , but when I start talking about any of my "project" cars I can't shut up! My goal one day is to drive the 810 out to Mt. Shasta (in northern California) for the annual Datsun meet.

I had the same idea for my 1979 810 Hardtop. The 810 L-series block has a front sump oil pan (like the RB’s) so that would remedy the usual problem concern with the crossmember interference. In addition the battery location and the air intake location in the engine compartment is the same between the 810 and the Skyline I decided not to for several reasons. First, there is just no room on the 810 for a front mounted intercooler so you either have to use the stock side mounted R32 Skyline intercooler, or use the non-turbo RB25DE engine. Also, I was not sure that the RB air intake tube (that passes over the valve cover) would not rub the 810 hood. Cost was a major concern as well. I elected to go with a 3.0 liter modified (re-drilled oil passages) L28 block in my 810. I had a just obtained a free 280Z engine with the N42 head and I had a spare diesel crank, 9mm 240Z rods and a set of new LZ22 pistons.

It's the Nismo "race damper" and not the euro damper that requires changing the water pump pulley and alternator pulley to maintain belt alignment. The euro damper was just the stock part Nissan used on the early non-smog (no air pump) Z cars that were sold outside the USA. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=99996-E1060E&Category_Code=s30_nismo_racedamper

The S12+8 caliper has two 43.0mm diameter pistons and two 33.8mm diameter pistons. The S12W (and the S13W) has four 43.0mm diameter pistons.

One concern is that the Z31 rotor is only 22mm thick whereas the Z32 1990 caliper is designed for a 26mm thick rotor. The pistons may protrude enough where the seal is exposed or enough to result in the pistons becoming cocked in their bores. This may not happen with a unworn rotor and new pads, but the possibility of occurrence with a worn pads and a worn rotor (min thickness of the Z31 rotor before discarding is 20mm) should be investigated. Since you will be making a custom spacer anyway for a vented rotor I would recommend going to a thicker rotor than the 22mm Z31 ones. This would be a performance benefit and would allow better potential from the Z32 calipers. There are plenty of thicker 5-bolt rotors available, but if you wish to remain with 4-bolt wheels then the only thicker 4-bolt rotor is the one off the Saab 900.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_eurodamper But it ain't no $85!

A lot of cleaning fluids will expand the rubber piston seals and will seize the pistons in their bores. Clean the calipers _after_ disassembly and install new seals.

At the parts store ask for the 1989-1995 Toyota 4 Wheel Drive Pickup Truck application. These used the S12W calipers.

The Z31 _non_ turbo CV axles visually appear to be identical to the 280ZX Turbo CV axles but they are sightly longer (by about an inch) in length. You can differentiate between these axles by the spring recess in the sheet metal end caps. This recess is longer on the 280ZX axles. I believe that Ross is working on a conversion kit for the non turbo Z31 axles as the supply of these is more plentiful then the 280ZX turbo axles.

I just got several new ones from my Nissan dealer as spares. PM me with your address and I will put one in an envelope for you.

No it does not. The caliper mounting bolt(s) spacing is different.

Congrads! The club meets on the first Thursday of the month at your local Hooters. New guys buy the beer!

http://www.digikey.com Look under RESISTORS, POWER.