zcarnut

No. The brake booster is a vacuum chamber [canister] that operates a rubber diaphragm which in turn applies force to the pushrod which goes into the master cylinder. A vacuum canister does not increase the level of vacuum anyway. There are solutions for engine that have low levels of intake manifold vacuum, like diesels and turbocharged engines. The 300ZXT has an electric vacuum pump for example, and the early Maxima diesel has a vacuum pump driven off the rear of the alternator. In practice, a high lift cam has only a small effect on braking performance. The highest level of intake manifold vacuum is during de-acceleration and not during idle. In my 260Z with has a high lift cam and in which I have a installed a vacuum gauge (in place of the useless clock) I pull vacuum levels of 23 to 25 inches during de-acceleration.

Sounds like you have a ZX. It’s the vacuum canister used to operate the vacuum controlled interior vents. It consists of a plastic bottle with an integral vacuum check valve (connected to the intake manifold with a hose) and two solenoid controlled valves. The valves direct the vacuum to the passenger compartment heating/AC unit and also to the fast idle AC kick-up control valve on the intake manifold. Why do you need it? Well, the intake manifold vacuum level is a function of engine load and throttle position. In other words, it varies. The vacuum bottle and the check valve provides a reservoir of fairly constant vacuum despite the intake manifold fluctuations. And, yes it does not have anything to do with the cruise control. The cruise control operates only off intake vacuum alone. This is a safety feature so that the cruise control does not operate ("kicks out") when the engine is heavily loaded.

A “condenser†is actually a capacitor and this particular one functions as radio frequency (RF) bypass capacitor. It should connect to the positive side of the coil (the side that is connected to the ballast resistor). The negative side of the coil should go to the distributor. Connecting the capacitor to the negative side of the coil will result in a poor spark and can even damage the capacitor (you may have exceeded its rated voltage). Do not take your coil resistance measurements as proof positive that your coil is bad. The resistance in your meter probe leads can result in a higher than actual reading on your meter. The coil resistance is also a function of temperature. Making accurate resistance measurements of less than one ohm requires a specialized meter (a four-wire ohmmeter). The best way to confirm a “bad†coil is replacing it with a known good one. The replacement can even be a used one.

Having accomplished this about twenty times over the years, it sounds like you are OK. New bearings are pre-lubed by the manufacturer and they can be “tightâ€. Also, most beginners tend to “over pack†the stub axle cavity with grease and when you tighten the stub axle retaining nut the excess grease can result in increased rotational resistance. Things will loosen up after a few miles on the road. Don’t worry about it.

Yes. It reduces the audible fan noise.

I agree. Unlike the Z cars, the early Maxima did not peen the 27mm securing nut on the stub axle. A locking nut was used instead. Removing the peened nut is probably half the work involved in pulling a stub axle. So, all you need is a stout breaker bar and a slide hammer axle puller (that you can probably rent).

If you discover that the block needs to be notched for valve clearance just make sure that the notch is not deep enough to uncover (expose) the top piston ring on the piston. This will result in top ring failure. You should be OK, but if you have a high lift cam and a milled head you might be too close for comfort.

You didn’t inadvertently swap the left and right side calipers did you? On both the front and rear calipers the bleeder screws must be at the top. Otherwise you will never get all the air out when bleeding.

Let me add to the confusion about the 260Z 2+2. According to the micro fiche parts list only the manual transmission versions had the R200 (with a 3.36). The automatics had a 3.54 R180.

I’d just like to add that if you have AC then you should make sure that the electric fan is turned on when the AC is on. Otherwise you will damage your compressor. This is easily accomplished by adding a wire with a diode from the AC compressor clutch to the fan relay.

27mm hex flange nut. Tighten to 137 to 159 ft-lbs. Then check preload with inch-pound torque wrench. It should be around 30 inch-pounds.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102145 and: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70688

Some clarification is necessary: There are two different N47 heads for the 810 and Maxima. The early N47 head was used in the 810 and the later (the preferred one) one was used in the Maxima. Both heads are marked N47 and appear identical externally. For the later N47 head Nissan changed the shape of the combustion chamber from a “dome-wedge†shape to a “wedge†shape. The 810 was built from 1977 to 1980. The 810 evolved into the first generation Maxima which was produced from 1981 to 1984. People assume that “810 = Maxima†and vice versa, which is not necessarily true. So, what you have is a “810 head†and not a “Maxima headâ€.

My rotor spacer is designed for the 240Z hub and the 1984 Z31 front vented rotor. The dimensions on the drawing are correct as I have installed these spacers on at least a dozen S30's. If you want to use the 260/280Z hub the rotor spacer can be thinner. I think the difference is 8mm but I am quoting from memory. I need to re-measure my spare hubs to verify. If you want a cheaper solution then I recommend using the 1985-88 Maxima front rotor with the 280ZX hubs. The Maxima rotor must be machined to fit the ZX hub but this only costs [me] about $25 a rotor. You need to increase the ID of the center opening on the Maxima rotor and drill four holes for the rotor-to-hub mounting bolts. No spacer is needed! The ZX hub fits on the S30 spindle provided you remove the sheet metal backing plate from the strut: Sorry about the poor quality photo. It’s all I could find right now.

The spec is 274mm which is actually 10.8 inches. Sorry to be so picky but that's what engineers do

The S13W caliper is designed for a thicker rotor (25mm) than the S12W (which uses a 22mm thick rotor). As a result, the S13W is wider and heavier than the S12W. The piston area is the same between the two, but the S13W has about 10% more brake pad area. The S12W caliper works with the 1984-88 Z31 rotor and second generation Maxima (1985-89) rotor. Finding a four lug OEM rotor to use with the S13W caliper has been a challenge. I have used the Saab 9000 rotor but it has to be machined to fit the hub and it also has turned on a lathe to reduce its outside diameter so it will fit under the S13W caliper.

You can use either the 1982-83 280ZX rear rotor or the larger diameter 1984 300ZX rear rotor. However, to use 300ZX rear rotor you have to also use the caliper support part of the 1984-86 300ZX rear caliper with the ‘82-‘83 280ZX caliper and even then the diameter of the 300ZX rotor must be decreased slightly from 290mm to 284mm. This is still larger them the 1982-83 280ZX rear rotor. The 300ZX caliper support piece is necesary because it positions the caliper further away from the hub centerline due to the larger diameter of the 300ZX rotor: The larger diameter of the 300ZX rotor increases brake torque and the using 300ZX caliper support piece increases the distance between the caliper and the axle. This is important if you are considering the CV axle swap.

I use the '82-'83 200SX rear caliper on my conversions. It bolts up to the Maxima bracket. The stock S30 ebrake cable connects to it and it comes out at a much better angle. Pad area is same as the '82-'83 280ZX calipers.

No problem Bernard. I did not mean to sound harsh or come off sounding like some kind of an MAF expert. With all the misinformation on other forums, I take pride in making sure that the information on HybridZ is as accurate as possible. The Maxima’s you saw were probably upgraded by the owners.

I do not why you are so adamant about this but I researched various Nissan MAF’s when I was upgrading the FI system in my 1979 810. Here are the MAF’s I pulled from a 1985 Maxima (on the left) and one from a 1987 Z31 (right): The difference is obvious. Of course they have different parts numbers, 22680-16E00 for the Maxima MAF and 22680-25P00 for the Z31 MAF. I even found additional pics of the these MAF’s on the internet. You can also check for compatibility at Car-Part.com. The Maxima has the stock air filter housing inside the engine compartment and the MAF bolts to the air filter box, hence the flange. The Maxima MAF used on the later models (1989 and up) also had the flange. The Z31 air filter housing is outside the engine compartment (in front of the radiator) whereas its MAF is behind the radiator and rubber hoses connect the two so there is no flange.

Well physically they are different. In addition to the mounting flange on one end of the 1985-89 Maxima MAF, the Z31 MAF has a larger inside diameter (80mm versus 70mm) so the Z31 one should flow more air.

http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

You can also use a version of the S12+8 calipers for the vented rotor conversion. Let me explain. There are two different Toyota 4x4 calipers with the casting mark "S12+8". One for a solid rotor and one for a vented (wider) rotor. The 1979-85 4x4 calipers are for use with a solid rotor but the 1986-88 4x4 calipers are also marked "S12+8" but they are designed to fit the wider' date=' vented rotor. [img']http://home.earthlink.net/~zcarfan/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/s12solid.jpg[/img] If you examine and compare the two different S12+8 calipers you will see that they are the same casting, (actually they are a pair of castings, one for each side of the caliper) except one is machined more that the other to be used on the solid (thinner) rotor. There are advantages of using the S12+8 caliper (for the vented rotor) over the S12W caliper: It is lighter in weight; The S12+8 caliper body is not as wide as the S12W caliper, so clearance to the wheel is increased; The S12+8 caliper has two 43.0mm diameter pistons and two 33.8mm diameter pistons whereas the S12W has four 43.0mm diameter pistons. This increase in piston area requires a larger (1") diameter master cylinder when using the S12W calipers. The belief that only the calipers with a “W” will fit a vented rotor is a myth. If you want to use the S12W calipers then some additional application information is the 1989-1995 Toyota 4 Wheel Drive Pickup Truck.

I don’t know what your friend is talking about, but it will not work. The 1981-84 Maxima power rack is located behind the front crossmember (just like on the 280ZX) rather than in front like on the S30 cars. The early Maxima rack is almost identical to 280ZX power rack. The only difference being the positioning of the fluid tubes because the Maxima has a front engine oil sump whereas the 280ZX has a rear engine oil sump. If putting power steering on an early Z car was an easy “bolt-on†procedure then everyone would know about it. BTW, the Maxima had a 2.4 liter L6, not the 2.8 liter.