zcarnut

I have one for sale. $225 plus shipping.

Nissan does not use a [replaceable] "crush sleeve" to set the pinion bearing pre-load on the R200 diffs. This seems to be a commonly misunderstood fact about these rear ends. The "crush sleeve" method of setting pinion pre-load is commonly used in Detroit differentials so people just tend to assume that this is the only way to accomplish this. Nissan uses a fixed-length collar with a certain thickness shim to set the pinion bearing pre-load. As this fixed-length collar has a similar appearance to a "crush sleeve", the rumor persists. Indeed, when replacing the input flange and/or the pinion seal all you have to do to re-torque the flange nut correctly. This can be also be verified by reading the Nissan factory manual. Replacement of the flange nut is recommended because it is a lock-nut. I always record the force to requires to rotate the input shaft before I remove the flange nut (with an inch-pound wrench). Afterwards, I check it to see if it has changed. It's not exactly the same as measuring the pre-load, but it's better than nothing.

There are two types of front crossmembers on the early Z cars, the 1970-73 one and the 1974-78 version. The later one was improved over the early one with two subtle changes: The steering rack mounts were reinforced with an additional plate on the bottom and they were also triangulated with a side brace. The two front crossmembers types are fully interchangeable. The steering rack also changed starting in early 1974. The steering ratio changed from 15.8 to 18.0, the rack housing material went from aluminum to cast iron, the pinion bearing went from a ball bearing and bushing combination to two separate ball bearings to reduce friction. The rack bushings were made wider and the inside diameter of the bushings increased sightly. The Zerk type grease fittings were no longer used and finally the steering rack boots were attached with a screw clamp instead of a rubber snap ring. The early and later steering racks are also interchangeable provided you use the corresponding bushings. Both the front crossmember and the steering were changed in 1974 (along with numerous other changes) because of the introduction of the heavier 2+2 260Z.

New vent tubes are still available from the Nissan dealer. You can get either the plastic vent tube or the "unbreakable" metal one used on the later diff's.

According to Nissan all the turbo Z31 R200's used 12mm diameter ring gear bolts, not just the '87 (and later) LSD diff's.

First decide if you want to change to the manual rack-and-pinion or the power assisted rack-and-pinion. The 280ZX used both (as well as your recirculating ball box). The front suspension crossmember, lower control arms and outer tie rods must be changed with the rack. The front suspension crossmember lower control arms are different for each rack! The best way to do it is find a suitable ZX donor car and get everything you need. The swap is a lot easier if the engine is out of the car.

Hello all; I know this is off subject, but a friend just acquired a Datsun 1600 Roadster and he wants to upgrade to rear disc brakes. I did a quick internet search, but I can't seem to find anyone who has done this, either with an aftermarket kit or a homemade one. Can someone inform me if they have done this or know of someone who has accomplished this or could they just point me in the right direction to a web site? Thanks in advance!

Don't forget to get the clutch cut-out switch for the cruise control from the ZX! Otherwise (with the cruise on) the throttle will not close during gear shifts and you will over rev the engine. This is the worst part of the swap. The clutch switch takes an 8mm diameter hole and the existing hole in the Z car is 6mm. You have to drill it out and re-tap. Not easy with the pedal bracket still in the car. Of course, if you happen to have an automatic transmission, then this is not a concern!

Make sure you use the SAME pressure plate/throwout bearing collar combination! Nissan made three different pressure plates for the Z cars with different diaphragm finger heights. To compensate for the different finger height, the throwout bearing collar (the cylindrical part the throwout bearing is pressed into) came in three different heights. Since the throwout bearing collar typically comes with the junk yard tranny you can upset the critical dimension of pressure plate finger height plus the throwout bearing collar length. The result is either not having enough clutch engagement range (or too little). And you do not know this until after the tranny swap is done! To prevent this from occurring just consider the pressure plate and throwout bearing collar as an assembly. If you re-using your present pressure plate just remove the throwout bearing collar from your old transmission and re-use it as well. This is a very common problem when swapping Z transmissions. Lots of people (yours truly included) have done this and a lot of people who luck out and do not have a problem after a swap are not aware of this potential problem.

You can use the calipers from the 1986-88 Toyota four-wheel-drive truck. This caliper is exactly the same as the 1979-85 Toyota caliper, EXCEPT it is made wider for a 22mm thick rotor (the same thickness as the Z31 rotor). The 1988 Toyota V6 caliper is heavier but has more pad and piston area and hence requires a one inch diameter master cylinder (this is my present set up on my 260Z).

I'll assume that you are referring to the front hubs. Although the 280Z hubs and the 280ZX front hubs will fit on the same spindle, the location of the brake rotor mounting surface (called the rotor offset) is different by some 5mm. Also, Nissan changed the dust shield design on the 280Zx's and the hubs are different in that area, although the inner wheel bearing seals are the same. Left and right side Z car hubs will interchange (probably a universal rule for every automobile).

Congrads as well BlueX! Accessible basements are the way to go if you’re into working on cars. One of our club members just found a modestly priced house with a full basement and a detached garage. He estimates that he can park six (and maybe seven) cars in the dry! (the dog) I like to look through Hemmings (in their real estate section) and see what houses/garages some car enthusiasts have built.

When you phone the junk yards in your area tell them that you only want the calipers from a 1979-85 Toyota four-wheel-drive truck. Inspect the calipers before you buy them. Pistons that have movement when you press on the pads are a good sign. Torn seals let water into the caliper and can seize pistons. Scrap off any dirt and check for rust pitting, especially the bosses where the bolts are that hold the caliper halves together. If this boss has been pitted enough so that you can see the shafts of the bolts, then avoid these calipers. Try to get calipers that have the pins that hold the pads in place. These are no longer available from Toyota (or any aftermarket vendor). You can make these by modifying a 1/4 inch bolt, but it’s a lot a work. Check the bleeder screw to make sure it turns and the threads are not stripped. A seized bleeder screw can indicate internal corrosion. Expect to re-build the calipers. Remove the pistons and clean and inspect them for rust pitting. Replace the seals before re-assembly. Don’t over pay for used Toyota calipers. Around here the going price is only $25 per caliper.

The 260Z fuel pump relays are located on the relay bracket mounted behind the passenger side kick panel. There are several other relays (horn, wipers, rear defogger) on this bracket so use the wiring color code to identify the fuel pump relays. The pump relays have the yellow, black, black/white stripe and a green/white stripe wires. You need to short the black/white stripe wire to the green/white stripe wires on each relay. !!WARNING!! Remember, you are disabling a safety feature! One of the relays is to shut off the fuel pump if the engine stops turning with the ignition key in the ON position. If you have a accident and the fuel line is cut, then you do not want fuel feeding a potential fire.

You can use the 280Z rotors on your 240Z provided you swap out the 240Z hub with a 280Z one. The 280Z hub is slightly thicker where the wheel mounts and there is more surface area. In addition Nissan reduced the rotor offset on the 280Z to reduce the rotor run out variation. Just another example that the later 1st generation Z cars are a little stronger than the 240's. Probably as a result of the heavier weight and the introduction of the 2+2 models.

I've thought about this as well, Ian. I know that Nissan built some 280ZX's with CV axles and the R180, and I've seen the early Maxima's with the same set up. The Maxima's would have a 3.70 ratio. Maybe all you may have to do is to change the companion flange on the 240Z stub axle.(?)

I've thought about this as well, Ian. I know that Nissan built some 280ZX's with CV axles and the R180, and I've seen the early Maxima's with the same set up. The Maxima's would have a 3.70 ratio. Maybe all you may have to do is to change the companion flange on the 240Z stub axle.(?)

I have been very happy with Pierce Manifolds for all my Weber parts: http://www.piercemanifolds.com

The red convertible Z car belongs to Walt Bailey of Atlanta. He and his wife Sandy are regulars at Z car shows throughout the USA. Walt used a GTO kit from a supplier in southern California. The chassis is a 280Z.

I helped a fellow club member install one in his '73 Z car several years ago. He used a kit from someone in the northwest. The kit was neat in a way because it allowed you to retain your stock Z transmission (custom bellhousing adapter). The starter of the Buick 215 is on the same side of the engine as the Nissan L6 as well as the alternator and lower radiator hose outlet. We kept the stock Z radiator. Overall, it was a fairly easy swap! I do remember after the swap how much higher the front end of the Z was because of the lower weight of the engine compared to the cast iron block L6. We had to change out the front springs to fix this. From what I have read the engines are fine as long as you keep them under 4500rpm.

The 43 to 51 ft-lbs mentioned for the ring gear bolts is only applicable for the 10mm diameter ring gear bolts. If you have a diff with the 12mm diameter ring gear bolts (found on all the R200 turbo diffs and the LSD diffs)then the tightening torque is 98 to 112 ft-lbs. A considerable difference.

The trick is to use a early 260Z bumper. Same mounts as the 280Z. Lots of people have done this.

You need a 20mm x 1.5mm die.

The ball bearings that support the pinion shaft on the 280Z rack (also used on the 260Z) are NLA from Nissan. It's a special bearing made by Koyo with a "step" in it. No replacement bearing is available either. I am presently re-building a rack for my 260Z and I am going to use another bearing (Gulf type 202SS or equivalent) with a correct sized shim to take the place of the "step". If you are re-building the 240Z rack, you're in luck as it's bearing is available from the aftermarket. The pinion seals for both racks are still available from Nissan. BTW, the 260/280Z rack is a beefier unit than the 240Z one. Nissan changed the design of the pinion shaft support from a single ball bearing and a bushing to a two ball bearing design. In addition, the rack housing went from a combination aluminum and cast iron to a fully cast iron one and the rubber bushings that mount the rack to the front suspension cross member became wider. However, the steering ratio of the 240Z rack is slightly higher, so the wheel-to-wheel lock of the steering wheel is less on the 240Z’s. For some reason, Nissan removed the grease plug fittings when they switched to the later racks.

The push rod that extends from the 1970 and 1971 brake booster and activates the master is a different length (it is shorter) than the later boosters. As a result, the '70 and '71 master cylinders are different than the later ones. Now you can use the later master cylinders on the 1970 and '71 boosters but you must swap out and use the later booster push rod. Just be sure to adjust it correctly.