zcarnut

Both the 280ZX and the 1981-84 Maxima had models with R180's and CV axles. These could be swapped into an earlier Z car provided you change the companion flange on the stub axle. However, the CV companion flange only fits the 240Z (smaller) stub axle spline.

The #1 tower on the distributor cap is marked/identified with raised plastic line/marking. Look for it.

The original poster is wanting to put a ZX booster in his 1975 Z (_not_ a 1972 Z). So, I think a little information is needed... The early (1970-73) Z’s have a different firewall bolt pattern for the brake booster than the later Z’s. Reason being that when the 2+2 version appeared in 1974 a larger diameter booster was needed for the 2+2. This larger booster also resulted in Nissan having to move the move the firewall components slightly for additional clearance and a new foot pedal mounting bracket had to be designed. This larger booster has a different (larger) bolt pattern than the 240Z’s booster. Nissan elected to keep the same firewall bolt pattern even for the 1974-78 two-seater Z’s which used a smaller diameter booster than the 2+2's. The 280ZX’s also used this same bolt pattern but the booster rear push rod tube is offset from the bolt centerline in a different direction than the 1974-78 booster. So, as a result you must rotate the ZX booster 180 degrees so that it lines up with the holes in the 1974-78 firewall. The only way to mount the ZX booster into the early Z (1970-73) cars is by re-drilling the firewall. But this allows you to mount it without rotation.

The condenser on the side of the 1970-72 distributors is indeed needed for proper ignition operation. It's primary purpose is to reduce the arcing across the points when they open. It also tends to resonant with the leakage inductance of the coil to extend spark duration. The later distributors are electronic and the condenser is not needed (except for RFI reduction).

No major mods are needed when installing a ZX booster on the the '74-78 Z cars. The ZX booster must be installed upside down, but that does not affect it's operation. The ZX booster has a one inch thick aluminum spacer that is not needed. This results in the booster studs (that go through the firewall) being too long so they must be cut to length with a hack saw. The ZX master cylinder works with no mods needed at all.

From the Nissan service manuals: 1981-84 Maxima: MT 3.54 AT 3.70

They are very different... The 280Z (and earlier) fuel tank has a "hump" on one side, whereas the 280ZX one is flat on top. The sending unit access cover is at the front of the 280Z one but it's on top of the 280ZX tank. Also, the earlier tanks have a drain plug on the bottom and (for some strange reason) the ZX one does not have a drain plug at all.

Passing note here: The R200 input flange will work on the R230 diff (same spline count). Just unbolt the pinion flange nut and swap. Swap the sheet metal shield (collar) for the input grease seal as well.

The vents are there so that when you select the outside air for the heat or AC (or the VENT function) the air will flow through the cabin. Otherwise the pressure in the cabin will build up and the air flow will diminished. Of course this applicable only when the side windows are rolled up. Every vehicle has some type of venting system, it's just not always obvious. So, in other words, Nissan put them in for a reason.

Have you confirmed that the timing marks on the crankshaft damper and the timing indicator piece on the front cover are accurate? The harmonic damper is a two piece unit and I have seen slippage of the outer ring if the rubber insulator material has deteriorated. To be sure just locate TDC using the piston stop method.

What you need to use is a "primer-sealer" (sometimes called just a sealer). I like the PPG brand. It has a semigloss finish and wet sands very nicely. Epoxy primer also will block moisture, but it's more expensive (two part system typically) and you need to use an air respirator. Remember, make sure any primer you use is compatible with your topcoats!

Nissan does not use a crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing pre-load. A certain size shim is used. [When will this rumor end?] You can change the front seal without concern. It is a good idea to re-torque the pinion flange nut to it's present value. Since there is no crush sleeve, the final torque value is no more than 250 ft-lbs. Typically it's just under 200 ft-lbs. I use a inch by one inch steel bar about four feet long (which is drilled so it bolts to the input flange) to hold the input flange when your are loosening or tightening the front pinion nut. BTW, the front pinion nut is a lock nut and it is recommended that it not be re-used. The side seals are a little tricky as there is no lip in the R200 housing to prevent you from putting the seals in too far. They should be driven in just until they are flush with the edge of the hole. An excellent source of info on changing R200 seals (with the diff still in the car) is the factory service manual.

I wrote up a procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearings for our club web site. Find it at: http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm

98% use a 17mm bolt head. A very few used a 19mm one (which I prefer to use). a 10mm flare wrench is also handy if the junk yard will not let you cut the brake hose.

I agree with Joe. The 280ZX stuff would require a lot of work. I have used the SPAL kit in a 280Z and my 810. Very nice and not too expensive. http://www.spal-usa.com/html/mampss.htm

Nissan changed the front suspension crossmember for the 260Z (because of the heavier 2+2 version). The later one is stronger and has some additional bracing for the steering rack mounts. Use the search function (keyword: "crossmember") to find one of my earlier posts for some more details/info. This issue came up before when we were discussing power steering.

That is absolutly correct. However, Roger Schmidt (owner of the Z Barn) has very little of the Tweeks inventory remaining.

What I did was to use the "power antenna" signal from the radio to drive a circuit which sends voltage to the stock Z power antenna motor for about 10 to 15 sec (your standard "one-shot" circuit) which was long enough to allow the antenna mast to extend (or retract). Most of the newer radios have a "power antenna" signal which is generated when the radio is turned on. However, this signal is there all the time the radio is on, so just sending this to the stock Z antenna would burn up it's clutch. Hence, I used an interface circuit. (It helps to be a EE). However, the newer power antenna motors have a "trip out" mechanism to prevent damage to the clutch so they can handle a continuous signal from the radio. So, if you do not want to fool around with a amateur electronics project, then I would look for a newer type of power antenna motor that will fit your Z car and will handle the logic of the Sony antenna signal.

Plastic media blasting will also remove paint from fiberglass. Ask any 'Vette restorer.

First rinse out throughly with plenty of water to remove any acid residue. Then you can apply the WD-40. Otherwise it will flash rust even with a coating of WD-40.

One wire is for the oil gauge and the other wire goes to a switch inside the oil sending unit which closes once you have any oil pressure. This wire goes to a relay in the passenger kick panel that controls the fuel pump. So, if you lose oil pressure then the fuel pump is turned off. This is part of a saftey feature. If you have a accident and the engine stops running but the ignition key is in the ON position, you want the fuel pump to stop so as not to feed a potential fire. Before 1978 Nissan used a sense voltage from the alternator and/or a signal from the airflow meter to determine if the engine was running. However, it was shown that a fuel injected engine would operate even upside down, so a signal from the oil pressure sending unit was then used instead.

I've got the 40 DCOE's feeding my 3.1 liter. Very streetable and preformed very well at the few track events I have been to. Best thing I did for the Webers was to install a set of 50mm tall velocity air stacks. This noticeably improved the bottem end torque.

The 180B SSS (six cylinder version) may have some usable parts. This was known as the 810 in the USA. Also try the 910. This was the first generation Maxima in the USA. Like the 810, it also uses the six-cylinder L24E engine.

Yeah. The key is to install the cam AND towers together. Then go in steps when torquing the bolts which secure the cam towers to the head, so all the towers are torqued evenly. Start with a low torque setting, and increase the torque setting each time, all the time checking for smooth cam rotation. If necessary, tap the towers with a rubber mallet to smooth things out, then repeat the procedure until the cam tower bolts are torqued to spec, and the cam turns freely. Since the head gasket was not exposed to any combustion chamber gases you can re-use it. I would just add 5 ft-lbs of additional torque to the head bolts to further crush it. I have know several mechanics who have used this "trick".

According to the very knowledgeable Car Beck at: http://zhome.com/History/Truth/TheTrueStory.htm and: http://zhome.com/History/Truth/Prince.htm the L-series engine was the result of the merger of Prince Motors (who made the Skyline) with Nissan. In 1966 Nissan acquired Prince Motors (and its expertise) and the L-16 appeared soon after in the 1968 510. I have read several books on the history of Nissan and I cannot recall Nissan (nor Prince) ever making engines for Mercedes on licence. Can you tell us more of this lawsuit?