zcarnut

Installing a higher output alternator is an excellent upgrade as the early Z cars had a minimal sized one. However a few remarks here: One issue with the larger amperage alternators is that the electrical output terminal on the alternator is usually larger so it won't connect to your stock harness without replacement of the corresponding connector. You should also consider increasing the size of the wire between the alternator and the battery. It should be rated for the increased alternator current. I have seen some vehicles with 120+ amp alternators that used a battery-to-starter sized wire between the battery and alternator. Some “high output” alternators just use a smaller diameter front pulley so that the alternator spins at a higher rpm (alternator output is a function of it’s speed). But this means that the alternator can reach speeds over 20,000 rpm(!). This puts additional centriphical stress on the armature windings and reduces the life of the alternator bearings and brushes. Needless to say, alternator balance becomes very important.

I completely agree that using a MAP sensor is the preferred or the “engineering correct” method, but it is not the only method. I have worked on or inspected several Z cars with the individual throttle bodies and _none_ of them used a MAP sensor. I was only offering QuasiMondo a viable alternative solution. I am fully aware of the pulsating nature of the airflow in intake runners and the improvement a manifold makes to the vacuum signal. But maybe he does not want to hack up his throttle bodies? Which, if not done correctly will look like a kludge job and will reduce any re-sale value of his throttle bodies. From what I have seen, most of the people who install the individual throttle bodies are more concerned with the “eye candy” appearance of the throttle bodies than with their driveability or practicality. For example, I’ve never seen anyone even using air filters with them.

My guess is that the better the airflow the more current the fan motor requires. Some fans I have inspected require as much as 20 amps. So, make sure that your Z car wiring and the connectors can handle the increased amperage. You do not want any fires!. In addition, the voltage drops in the stock fan circuit will increase so that you may get much less than full battery voltage at the fan. This will only reduce the speed of the fan. True, the fan speed "adjustment" resistors will limit the current, but in "high" speed mode the resistors are all shorted out. So make your measurements in that mode. The best method is what the audiophiles have found out, a direct connection to the battery with an increased sized wire. Always use a fuse or a fuse wire in your circuit. A relay will extend the life of your stock Z fan speed switch. You may even need to upgrade your alternator. Check your charging operation with the fan in high speed, high beams on, engine running, etc. with a half discharged battery. You should have at least 5 amps available (10 amps preferred) to charge the battery. I'm all for increased performance from the lousy stock fan (I am using a 280ZX fan motor myself) but let's do it right!

Frankly, I was skeptical too at first, but check out their web site: http://www.sdsefi.com/techtps.htm After installing the TWM throttle bodies and using the SDS controller I was able to get a fellow club member's Z car to run great! (He just had to have the individual throttle bodies on his show car.) But this is not the set-up to use if you are concerned about gas mileage! Remember, MAP sensors _only_ work if you have sufficient plenum volume. This entails more than just making a simple "balance" tube to interconnect the intake runners. You need to construct something that _supplies_ the intake runners.

You can use the aftermarket SDS controller and just use the TPS sensor to set the injector duty cycle without even needing a MAP sensor.

A bigger brake booster will not stop your Z any quicker....... All the booster does is to reduce the pedal effort by increasing the force applied to the master cylinder. Brake boosters are carefully chosen for their application. A bigger booster than what is needed will only allow you to lock the wheels up more easily when braking, and that is not the best (or safest) way to stop a car. Another issue is that the brake booster needs a certain amount of time before maximum boost is applied. (Remember you are dealing with the movement of air to one side of the diaphragm in the booster). The larger the booster the longer this time is. This is why you never see a booster on a true race car. Their brakes need to develop master cylinder pressure as soon as the driver presses the pedal. The only time it is OK to go bigger is when you are increasing the diameter of your master cylinder. As increasing the diameter of the master cylinder will result is a increase of pedal force (for the same amount of fluid displacement).

The stock oil pan has the same problem like most vehicle's stock pans -- the possibility of uncovering the oil pickup tube during high G maneuvers. Because of the slow response of the oil gauge, you may not realize it is occurring. This is the reason that most race cars use a dry sump oiling system. The benefit of the aftermarket Nissan oil pans is that they have the pickup surrounded by one-way gates to prevent oil from moving away from it. In addition, they usually have more oil capacity which has a few additional benefits as well.

When I was young and foolish I had a Fiat with a cable operated clutch.... Damm thing would break at least once a year! Each replacement cable was a re-design to improve it, but to no avail...... Never again!

FYI; The input (pinion) bearing is not standard. You can only get it from Nissan. The other bearings can be crossed over using the ID numbers printed on the bearings. Most of the Nissan OEM bearings are from NSK. (Sorry, I don't have the part numbers handy....)

A word of caution here... Suspension bolts are carefully chosen for their application. Do not substitute any suspension (or even drivetrain and brake component) bolt unless you know for sure that the substitute fastener is equivalent (or better) than the bolt you are replacing. Fortunately for us there is a making on the head of the bolts that Nissan uses: #4 Tensile strength 57,000 lbs/square inch #7 Tensile strength 100,000 lbs/square inch #9 Tensile strength 128,000 lbs/square inch #11 Tensile strength 150,000 lbs/square inch If you do not know the engineering specs of the substitute bolt then do not use it in a critical application. Another concern is the fact that the tightening torque [you do know you should use a torque wrench on _every_ bolt] is a function of the tensile strength of the bolt. I have seen too many bolts fail because a weaker one was torqued to the “correct” value for that application. Now it is OK to replace the numerous automotive non-critical fasteners with stainless steel or chromed ones, but suspension bolts? No way. Ask yourself this: What are the consequences if this bolt fails? Often we modify our Z cars (this is the HybridZ forum) and we can place additional stress on the suspension. Using correct bolts is just another technique that separates a real mechanic from a shadetree one. If you’re a cheapskate (like myself) then get some used bolts at the junkyard. As along as they are not rusty, then they will be fine.

One of our club members used a system from the 1981-85 Maxima. He claimed the Maxima evaporator was easier to hack into his '72 240Z than the 260/280Z or the 280ZX one. Where to locate the evaporator is the biggest problem when trying to AC a 240Z. Next is getting good airflow through the evaporator. I wonder if it would be easier if you replaced the 240 dash with the 260Z or 280Z dash?

The Maxima diesel oil pan will not work. The Maxima's (and 810's) have a "front" sump (because the engine is more forward in the vehicle) whereas the Z and ZX have a "rear" sump (engine moved to the rear for better weight distribution). This front sump will hit the front suspension crossmember on a Z car.

Where exactly is the interference?

You can always just "create" them... What I mean is that you can take your bumpers to a chrome shop and have them weld up the screw holes in the bumpers that held the rubber strips in place. I did this on my Z and it looks great. I also got rid of the bumper "guards" as well. Since I did not have to buy new rubber bumper strips to replace my well weathered ones, this method saved me money!

Anyone care to comment on this site/product? http://www.pro-flow.com/Import/import%20front.htm

Try: http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.chevelles.net/links/WorkShop/Motor/ http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/rodslength.cfm

If you are still using the AFM then you need to connect the oil breather tube (the hose coming from the opening on top of valve cover) to a point between the AFM and the throttle body (like the rubber AFM boot). If you vent the breather to the atmosphere then you are introducing "false air" into the engine (via the PVC valve). "False air" is simply air that is not measured by the AFM and therefore not compensated for by the fuel injection ECU. Early 280Z's had a long oil breather tube which would reach all the way to a fitting on the AFM boot. I would locate one of these, for starters. The truth is that most people who use the 240SX throttle body are also making other modifications to the induction/FI system. One of these is to remove the AFM and use a MAP sensor. The MAP sensor does not measure air flow, hence "false air" is compensated for by the reduction in intake manifold vacuum. Another "problem" with the 240SX throttle body is that there is no provision for the idle rpm adjustment (!). You can use the mechanical stop screw for the throttle plate, but this results in a re-adjustment of the TPS switch and it also changes the characteristics of the ported distributor advance fitting (to that of a fitting that only sees intake manifold vacuum). How to connect the air regulator valve ("fast idle") is yet another issue with using the 240SX throttle body! Again, an aftermarket FI controller can perform this function or you can just not use the air regulator (I have seen plenty of people elect to do this). I hate to piss on your parade, but if you are keeping your induction/fuel system stock, then you are better off to use the Weber/TWM Big Throat (even though it is more expensive).

If you have the stock SU carbs (I can't tell from your email) you can cut your stock air filter housing with a jig saw and expose more area to the air fliter. K&N used to make a replacement filter for the SU carbs. This is a common mod. I would use a spare housing from the junk yard.

The diesel crank has a locating dowel on the flywheel flange.

Nissan L6 crankshaft main journal diameter is 2.1631 to 2.1636 inches and the crankpin (rod) journal diameter is 1.9670 to 1.9683 inches. The SD-33 web site mentioned says the SD-33 crank has only 5 main bearings. The Nissan L6 crank has 7 main bearings.

Brake caliper brakets, steel channel pieces, motor mounts, bushings, gussets, wheel spacers, etc, etc. Lots of "hybrid" parts. Great pricing as well. A&A Manufacturing 19033 174th Ave. Spring Lake, MI 49456 http://www.aa-mfg.com/

It sounds like I am the only one on the list who uses Nissan oil filters(!).

Some more differences: 1. Factory AC 2. R200 diff 3. The 280Z doors have reinforcement braces 4. Heavier steering rack

I've used the EC-80FU universal one from Lokar: http://www.lokar.com/brake_con_cables.html It's an excellent item. Expensive(~$85) but well made. You can cut it to the desired length. (The best thing is that's it's made right here in Knoxville at their factory!) Before I invested my money in Lokar, I spent a lot of time in the junkyards trying to find a useable OEM one, but to no avail.

I will confirm that the '96+ Toyota calipers won't bolt up to the early Z struts. Toyota increased the spacing on the mounting bolts (like everyone else).