mobythevan

You will find that fuel rail extrusion is typically available in two diameters. check this link out, i can't imagine you would need more than .5" diameter, unless you are going to run bigger than 1/2 inch fuel line. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/extrusion.html I believe the only concern with the barb fitting threads portruding would be reducing the overall diameter and thus reducing the flow potential of the rail. I am just throwing in my 2 cents, since no one else replied. I bought fuel rail extrusion to make my own setup, but I am going to use o-ring injectors which presents more problems with reaming and machining the oring openings.

Very good advice. My wife just started her business 3 months ago. She started an LLC and an s corp because of liability reasons. The s corp leases all facilities and supplies from the LLC to give two layers of protection because her business is inherently dangerous. Using the guidelines above she is already above her capacity and is working 7 days a week, but what more can you hope for when you start a business. good luck

I checked ATP and they do have 2.25 to 2.75 straight transitions, not sure about angle. They are $17.95

I bought all my stuff from http://www.atpturbo.com There stuff has the fiber reinforcement and the price was good last time I bought from them. A lot of the cheaper stuff has no reinforcement so watch out when your hunting around.

For reference I used the diode with GM alternator on my setup and took power from the starter as well. After I sold the car Nelson did say that he had to ground the MS box because the fan relay wasn't working correctly. I had it tied up, but not bolted up.

make sure you can open the wastegate lever by hand once you remove the rod from the vacuum canister. Mine was stuck. It should easily swing open and shut.

Allright, talked to my friend and his install on a chevy pickup would not work(resets all the time) if the box was located inside the cabin on the firewall, but if they moved the box behind the seat it worked fine. They tried multiple boxes and mucho condensers, filters, etc. That was the story????

Went to the alignment shop today and after they finished up the guy said that the rear toe alignment was "way off". He threw out numbers from before and after, but I just wanted to get back on the road and see if it fixed the problem. I explained the trouble I was having and he said this should fix it. So I sped home and tried it out on the dirt road, no more walking around in the back, awesome . Have to wait for another slick day to confirm, but looks good and drove noticeably better on the pavement as well.

heh heh, it won't accept the transplant, have to go nissan

I hate to see anyone having problems, but I really hate to see this. We had an instance where the MS box needed to be grounded. Actually bolted the box to the firewall and then it behaved better. It seems like the only connection on the MS board to the case is through the DB25 and DB9 connector housings, since they touch the aluminum case. Thoses housing are connected to ground on the board, so it seems that MS v2.2 boards may not pick up enough grounding through the regular wire connections. Its the only thing I can think of it you haven't already grounded the box. I am just working off memory here, but we also had an instance where the vacuum line we used(black rubber, regualr stuff) conducts electricity and it was causing a sort of short between the board and the case which produced some really weid behavior. That doesn't seem likely since yours runs ok only on the battery, but if I remember right that particular setup ran better with the alternator disconnected. I'll have to talk to my friend to remember all the details but that was the two big ones I remember encountering. Sometimes no matter how much we do we are still doomed to fail on some projects????

you could continue on out the front through the radiator support for better cold air intake, but my air filter was right behind the hole in the support so I think it worked ok.

here was my setup using a piece of 3" pipe with a slight bend on the end

foxes, rabbits...hippies heh heh

I scheduled a 4 wheel alignment for Monday morning with a trusted shop. I'll let you guys now if they find something. I will also ask them about the tire tread difference front to back and also ask them about the tires themselves (old hard rubber, good for all weather, etc) Thanks for the replies.

I measured the tread depth when I got home tonight using a piece of carboard inserted into the treads. The front tires have almost 3/16th inch more tread. Is that enough to screw up the AWD since that would make 3/8ths diameter difference between front and back? I thought they looked more worn out from a distance.

The wastegate canister is just a diaphram that relies on atmo pressure on one side and manifold pressure on the other, so as atmo pressure decreases so would the manifold pressure to move it?

Thats why everyone seemed to be crawling this morning, heh heh I have to drive on 2 miles of dirt road everyday from my house, county road and well maintained. I have noticed it sliding around in the backend a lot on the dirt road. I was ignoring that until the icy roads proved that something just isn't right. My thinking on the dirt road kept going like this: Huh, sure is sliding a lot, I must be in the loose stuff, no wait it looks like I'm in the hard packed lanes, maybe I drank too much this morning. Well, except for that last part it has seemed weird.

I hate to hijack this thread for forced induction talk, and BTW congrats on getting the car finished to Silicon Boy. very simplistic case @ 8psi and you tell me how the turbo makes up the difference without something adjusting the boost: manifold pressure = (sea level) 14.7psi + 8psi boost = 22.7psi MAP manifold pressure = (~7000 feet) 11psi + 8 psi boost = 19psi MAP Normalizing only occurs if the boost changes as altitude changes as was previously stated. Turn the boost up to 11.7psi instead of 8psi and your normalized for pressure anyway.

Ok, I'll have the alignment checked and look at new tires. The PO said it was really good in slick conditions, but it has been years since he actually drove it in the winter time.

Maybe someone can help me out on this. Been driving the talon for a week now and had two days that the roads were icy. This thing is horrible, thought I was going to spin out several times. It has 130k miles on it, excellent tread on tires, but they are a couple years old at least. It does have the LSD option and 5spd/stock clutch. So driving along at 20mph in third gear at like 1500rpm no where near the turbo, really light footing it and in the flat. It will just start tracking in a new direction out of the blue. Always feels like the rear end is sliding to the right regardless of steady gas, accell or decel. It has happened so many times that I know there aren't rutts in the ice on the road or anything alse from the road to cause it. My 96 chevy 1/2 ton in 2WD with 5spd manual does much better on the ice than the Talon? It actually slid out to the right on me a couple times, so I know its not my imagination. I don't know what to think except to change the diff fluids and make sure the rear tires aren't loose? What do you guys think?

She is satan, so that would just make her feel at home ha ha ha ha

The turbo or SC is only able to maintain the manifold pressure if it is turned up right? Both cars lose the same amount of manifold pressure for all practical purposes at high altitude, but turbo or SC can be adjusted to raise boost and bring manifold pressure back to the same, but you have now heated the air more so you still lose hp at high altitude.

I told her she wasn't going to tell me what to do, because she likes to tell everyone what they have to do in our neighborhood. That made her so mad to have one person not falling in line and then the situation just escalated from there. She is just a mean, manipulative person all the way to the bone. Don't poke the bear!

Ok, so it didn't turn out as bad as I thought. They didn't show for the pre-trail and the prosecutor gave me the usual deferred sentence, just adhere to the restraining order aritration agreement that is in place. Didn't have to do an anger management class and no fines. So maybe that will be the end of it. I certainly will not poke the bear any more.

For you guys that are following my neighbor dispute you probably rememeber that the restraining order part went to mediation at the end of October last year and an agreement was signed by both sides and it was wrapped up. However, the neighbors still had the harassment ticket they got issued on me and today is finally the pre-trial for that. It was referred to mediation but she refused to go. So, happy valentines day and I'm off to see if a plea bargain is given to me by the prosecutor. I am 99.9% sure that if I plead guilty to anything I will receive a lawsuit from here for missed work, attorneys fees from the restraining hearings, etc. If I go to trial I risk 6 months minimum jail time if found guilty. That is a pretty big risk for me to take, but sometimes you have to stand up for yourself. All I can do is issue a counter claim if she sues me and keep moving along.