mobythevan

I struggle all the time with selling or keeping my car because I want to start other projects etc. But in the end I am convinced that if I sell my turbo car I won't get the chance to own another datsun again. This is the fastest and most fun car I have ever owned and I am just going to keep that thought as long as I can. Even when my turbo camaro is finished next summer, it will be faster but I don't think it will be as much fun as the datsun for several reasons.

Glad to hear its up and running. Also good to see the map is close using another type of wideband meter (I am using the tech edge meter). Now I can forward all of the MSnS questions to you . Just Kidding, but I am glad to see another tubo person running. I need to get my NPR intercooler installed and port my intake manifold, more free hp. Just out of curiosity, what trim of To4e are you running? I am still waiting for the stock turbo to lay down so I can upgrade.

I went to the steel yard and bought a chunk of 3/8th thick mild steel and made my own flange using a drill press, cut off saw, grinder etc. If you have the tools just make yourself a new one, the stock cast flange is smaller than the turbo output anyway.

If a resistor goes from the signal to voltage it is a pull up, if it goes from signal to ground it is a pull down. Resistors are not polarized, you can put it in either way. If you use the stock auxilary air regulator then you do not need a fast idle control. The megamanual talks about the bosch air regulators so check that part of the manual out and I think it will make more sense to you. The stock AAR works by putting 12volts to it when the car if started, then the internal heater warms up and coolant passing through also warms it up and it eventually closes, so it does all of the idle air control for you. Very simple and requires no computer control to work. If you are going to control ignition with megasquirt then you have to load the megasquirtnspark code, probably the special version that Forrest used with MSD. Once MSnS code is loaded then the FIDLE pin is used to trigger the ignition box. I have not converted to MSD yet so I haven't got to play with this. I did have some issues at first with the inverted output using the HEI module to fire the coil. What worked seemed to be backwards from the MSS user group suggestions.

If I run 14psi(and that is what I am running right now on stock fuel pump) it is only like a person at sea level running 11psi. So I figure that is safe on the stock fuel pump. IF someone says they run xx psi on any engine setup you need to know more about their environment, especially their altitude. To start off with it would be good to know their absolute pressure which is atmosphere + turbo boost. sea level atmo 14.7 + boost 14psi = absolute pressure 28.7 psi in intake manifold me (6400) atmo~ 11.7 + boost 14psi = aboslute pressure 25.7 psi in intake manifold You may know this stuff already and don't take this post the wrong way. I did not understand this concept through most of my turbo swap and tuning(maybe I'm just slow that way ), so I put the post in hoping to help someone else that may be like I was. Really only important to high altitude people, but it becomes more important when all of us start comparing boost numbers that people are able to run with certain stock components or any components for that matter.

Somehow I fit mine below the j-pipe between engine block and fender and had room for a cone filter. I bought some couplers and cut a piece of mandrel bent pipe to go between the AFM and turbo inlet. I don't have a picture of it. I did not have the vacuum modulator so that freed up some room.

I got my multi port vortec intake manifold and now I am trying to decide what distributor I need to run. I am only familiar with stock mid 70's HEI. This manifold has a raised runner in the back and it looks like I will need a small cap dizzy. Since I will be running EFI I would also like a dizzy with locked advance. Is a stock tpi dizzy small cap and locked advance? Also, are the any differences on the drive gear between roller cam applications and flat tappet cam? This will be a flat tappet cam engine.

This is what I dislike the most about US society, the fact that we are always worried about offending someone. Oh well, I'll continue to offend whenever I get the chance. I have always thought the cadillac northstar was the only real engine in the US, but now the LS1 looks promising.

http://www.atpturbo.com seems to be a reasonably priced on couplers and t-clamps[/url]

I don't see why the vortec heads are not a good choice for a budget turbo engine. There is one way to find out, so I bought a multi port injection manifold (see other post) and I am going to put together a turbo setup with the vortec heads and a hydraulic flat tappet cam around 450 lift. I am interested to see what performance can be had from this "cheaper" setup. Two things at least come up, one being the iron head so maybe lose a little compression before pre-detonation. The other is 64cc combustion chamber so you need to run something like 22cc to 26cc dish piston for turbo friendly static compression. The only thing that was holding me up was finding a multi port injection manifold, so I bought one of these iron marine types off ebay and now its time to start the engine build.

Here is one, it is an iron intake for marine engines, but has cast multi port injection bosses in the runners. http://www.cfm-tech.com/catalog/_400-vm_____new____cast_iron_high_rise__96__vortec_intake_manifold_for_square_fl_963657.htm

Got your PM, we should be set, see you on Monday

I came across the following on another forum and thus raised the question:

That is what I love, getting on it and it just pulls and pulls all the way through

I have seen numbers for stock L31 vortec head cam lift anywhere from .430 to .480 I want to run .464 lift, does anyone have a more definitive spec for he stock vortec heads?

What are the differences of using a tpi type intake with a larger plenum as opposed to an edlebrock pro flo type EFI manifold that is basically a single plane intake with injector ports? The pro flo type seems to have a smaller plenum volume. I guess the question really boils down to the difference a small plenum makes on the engines characteristics.

I have an extra set of wheels/tires, but I am near Colorado Springs. If anyone from town was headed up there they could throw in the tires and bring them to you. They are just stacked up in my garage collecting dust. Came off my other 240z car that i gave up on.

I would be confused reading my sticky also. The pictures looks good. Can't wait to hear how it runs. If you end up with a good solution to the VR sensor pickup, I can change that in the writeup. Since I never messed with the VR stuff, I just put in the basic schematic from the MegaSpark guys. I got my second ACT clutch installed last night so I am almost ready to change over the the NPR IC now. I would like to hit a dyno, but I don't know if there are any here in Colorado Springs. Good Luck on the rest of the tuning.

I just went ahead and ordered another ACT 6 puck like I had. This time I will break it in better and not set and burn the clutch at 4 grand. I would have bought the clutch specialties setup but they never returned my email. Their willingness to answer questions is just as important as their product to me, so I'll just stick with ACT and try round 2. Car should be back up this weekend and I can start the swap over to npr IC.

If I have a T3 turbo setting in front of me that I think is a 50 trim how do I verify this. Is it just measuring the inside inlet diameter on the compressor housing? I always have the most basic questions

You can put a manual boost controller on and remove the sfety pop off valve on the intake manifold and start turning up boost. The air flow meter will allow the computer to compensate for more boost unitl you reach the limits of the fuel system. Turn up too much boost and buy a new engine, what is too much?? Only one way to find out. 10psi should be safe on stock system with no intercooler. More than that you should use an intercooler and use a wideband O2 sensor to see if you are leaning out.

I used forward air to ship several full size arcade games. The pricing was great, but the shipping is terminal to terminal. So it has to be shipped from Denver, near the old stapleton airport. BTW, they do not ship on airplanes, it is a trucking company. I guess air ride suspension

I think you've got 3 cheaper choices: cheapest and easiest is Z31 ecu swap $?? next cheapest and not as easy is MegasquirtnSpark $200-$400 next cheapest with real tech support is SDS system $500-$800 rough estimates on cost since we don't know what you may end up spending on bigger injector, other parts to support the upgrade.

I contacted ACT about the clutch, now I am waiting to see if they respond. After looking back in the archives I think I will go with a Spec stage 3 clutch kit unless there was something wrong with the ACT clutch and they will make it good.

my stock 225mm clutch held up to more abuse than the act clutch did. Kind of weird??? I think maybe I'll try a centerforce clutch.