awd92gsx

Yep. That ended up fixing the problem. Thanks guys!!

uhh...yeah!! Come to think of it I did remove the console with switches!! Didn't even think about that!! I'll try plugging the switches back in tomorrow...Thanks guys!!!

OK....when I did my swap I bypassed the fusible link setup (my fusible link cases were all corroded anyway) and am getting voltage to each of the red/white wires that had gone to the fusible links from the alternator. There are two plugs under the dash that had been connected to the EFI harness, one is a two wire T type connector, the other is a 6 pin (I think) connector that has a red/white, black/yellow, etc...I can't find anywhere these connect other than the EFI harness... I've checked to make sure all of my grounds are grounded, they are...but, for some reason I have absolutely no turn signals now...none in the front or rear, the lights don't even attempt to come on. It's like my switch is unplugged, except for the fact that it still switches from high to low beam... Is there something I completely overlooked that you guys have run into before? Other than that the swap is running good (with the exception to the fact that in reverse my JTR driveshaft adapter grazes my rear sway bar, but, that should be fixed easily enough by shimming the rear differential).

I could be wrong, but, it looks like there's a water outlet hose and a heater hose (or other cooler hose) behind the left header towards the very back of the engine. Look between the #7 and #9 header tube (4th and 5th header from the front of the engine)

Yeah...don't think I would complain much!! Wish I could get mine all tidied up that nice.

Ha! it's amazing how much better the tranny shifts when the vaccum modulator hose doesn't fall off Oopsies!!

I'd contact some of the local mechanic shops and see if they know any place in town that does driveshaft work.

I would like to point out that the JTR manual is WRONG!! about one thing. In the JTR manual it says that you CANNOT use the standard direct drive starter from a 350 and that you must use the #3 starter... Well, I bought that starter...and it worked...for about 2 days. It went south on me. (damned cheap *** rebuilds). Since I didn't buy it locally I was kind of stuck...so, I decided I would try something. I decided to see if the standard direct drive starter that came on the '77 El Camino's engine that I'm using. It fits FINE!! No problems whatsoever. It was kinda rough getting the wires hooked up after the starter was in, but, that was easily solved by hooking up the wires and THEN bolting the starter up. This was in a '77 280Z...and as always, your mileage may vary...but...I wish I would have tried it BEFORE I spent $100 on a starter that I didn't need.

OK...yes...the starter is bad. But, let me mention something about the JTR book. In it, it says that you CANNOT use the standard direct drive GM starter and that you have to use a special gear reduction starter (which I bought). ehhh!! Wrong answer private!!! The standard GM direct drive starter works perfectly fine *in a 280Z*...don't know about the 240-260Z. I basically spent $100+ dollars on a starter that I didn't need (which was bad anyway).

The part number that JTR recommends is no longer available through GM (or so my Wholesale GM guy tells me, so I had no choice but to go aftermarket on the mounts.

Got 'em... Love 'em!! Previously I had Falken's on then, when it came to put on some new shoes I went for the ES100's. They stick GREAT, seem to do well in wet weather, and are very cost effective. I doubt you'll have many complaints about them, especially for the price.

I checked the starter positive cable, it's tight. The only thing I might do, though, before actually swapping the start out is replace the battery terminal end...there looks like there's a little bit of corrosion on it., but, I honestly don't think that's the problem. That'll teach me to buy a reman starter off of Ebay!!! I should have really known better.

NM... Starter has gone completely out. Simply goes...*click.*

See? I can use the search function I was going to post that I have a strange engine vibration when I decided to check out the search feature...I notice the same symptom: the crank pulley wobbles a little I thought the 350 was internally balanced and didn't think it would cause a vibration, but, I suppose if it's out of balance itself it could huh?

I don't know...when I bought the El Camino donormobile I was told the transmission had already been done up...but, wasn't given any more info than that. (the guy I bought it from bought it from somebody non running - a gasket was covering the inlet fuel filter for the carb). It does seem to shift awfully hard.

Still spitting out fuel a little bit from the carb. I did try something, though. I disconnected the power from the starter solenoid wire for the fuel pump system...and it still seemed to spit it out. So...maybe it i s the bowl levels...I dunno. I really know very little about carburetors, other than their theoretical operation. Right now I have a bigger issue, though...my starter has gone out on me (reman unit - maybe it died from me trying to start it so much - I dunno). So, I'll get to replace that this weekend. I've only gotten to drive the car about 4 times around the block - seems like I keep running into these little issues.

Unfortunately I can't tell *exactly* where it's coming from. Maybe I can get my wife to crank it while I watch it. I think the starter I bought is defective, though. About 2/3 times of trying to start it just cranks a couple of revolutions and then starts to whir (gm gear reduction type specified per JTR manual...unfortunately I bought it online so, I'll have to see what their return policy is.)

Yeah. I need to reinstall the front cover and wash it first!! I don't know if it sits any lower than it did before, but, my front face just about scraped before (my car is fairly low) so I might have to adjust my coil-overs to bring it up if it does.

About every other time or so when I go to start my V8Z the starter (which is new) cranks a couple of revolutions and then just starts to whir...it will do this for a couple of times and then it will go to start right up. Now..I noticed 3 studs on the back of the starter (GM gear reduction type as recommended in the JTR manual) there are 3 studs. One stud for 12+, one for IGN START...I'm assuming the other is for ground? I didn't hook it up...but, I'd think it would ground through the starter case. Any suggestions or am I stuck with a bad starter?

Well...been awhile...but...I'm finally done I wasn't too impressed when I drove it before...but, since replacing the head gasket and getting to run on all 8 cylinders...I'm quite a bit more happy with the way it runs now I have a little tidying up to do from the work I did today, but, it is driveable now.

OK.... Well, it turns out I was wrong. The valves were sealing just fine. I pulled the head off, took it to a machine shop and had them check it out. The cylinder head was ok. However...the machine shop said it looks like #5 and #7 cylinders were crossing over compression by the headgasket...so...I took a chance and put it back together when a new headgasket. Just got finished. Doing the cylinder head wasn't too hard at all...what caused me grief, though, was getting the distributor right. I marked it, but, for some reason that mark didn't seem to matter...maybe I moved it and didn't remember it. Oh well... The GOOD NEWS, though, is that #5 cylinder seems to be working now (it drops RPM if I pull the #5 plug) AND I no longer spit fuel back out of the carb. Whether or not everything else is fine is still to be seen. I havent' really run it yet.

Maybe it wouldnt' be such a bad idea to have an FAQ section in the Chevy V8Z Tech Board...???

http://www.jagsthatrun.com

No, it wouldn't cause it to overflow...but, it would cause fuel to spit out of the top of the carburetor when compression fired back through the intake. The head is almost off, so, I'll find out in a few minutes.

Oh man... I think I figured out why my carb is spitting fuel back out... The number 3 cylinder isn't firing...I'm afraid it might have a burnt (or at least non sealing) intake valve.