rsicard

voltron_boi : I see that there are gauges mounted on the A pillar. Are these in a gauge pod or other mounting method? Would like to do the same. Please advise. Thanks.

Being a 3 time owner of General Aviation aircraft, timing is fixed (not adjustable) by the magnetos. Flew cross-country flights in fuel injected Cessna 210's and fuel mixture was set to the lean side of peak EGT. This is important to get the most mileage out of a gallon of fuel. On the lean side of peak, fuel is reduced and power and EGT are slightly reduced. On the rich side of peak, not all the fuel admitted to the cylinders is not completely burnt and therefore applies fuel liquid cooling to the cylinders.

What is a "reaction" disc? First I have heard of same. I will be changing over to Wilwood master cylinder mounted on Hydro Boost. Trying to reason whether a 1" or 7/8" master cylinder should be used. Please advise. Thanks.

Piston: Really like that paint job. What the the specification for that color as I would like to use the same on my 240Z? Please advise. Thanks.

Kito: Which resonator and magnaflow muffler are installed? I am installing nearly the same engine and exhaust and would like it to have a good sound and not LOUD. I plan to have two resonators before the crossover and then to a Y pipe and on to a Flowmaster super 44 muffler which has few traps within.

The key to 400+ HP is the proper machining, proper parts, good flowing cylinder heads and appropriate camshaft.

High Horsepower and Torque from a 383 does not come "on the cheap".

When you buy a used engine, there is a gamble that it is either good or bad and the purchaser does not know the state of the engine. Starting with a known good block and new parts makes certain that all aspects of the engine are KNOWN.

Logan1: A 355 cu in SBC, even though highly modified, will likely not make 485-500 HP. This is more the territory of a 383 stroker SBC with the same parts. The domed pistons inhibit the flame front from the spark plug to the opposite side of the cylinder. Flat Top piston are the best as they do not inhibit the flame front. To achieve high compression ratio, zero deck the block, use thin head gaskets and mill the cylinder heads for a smaller head chamber. The design of the SBC may be 50 years old but is still the best technology of its time. Displacement for displacement and similar parts, the Gen 1 and Gen II engine will equal the Gen III and Gen IV LSx engines. Therefore there is no disadvantage of the 50 year technology. The '96-'99 SBC Gen I engines are the best of the breed with one-piece rear main seal and roller lifters with taller lifter bosses and likely CNC machined just as the Gen III and Gen IV engines are. For $2600.00, it would be best to get a '96-'99 Vortec SBC, bore and stroke to 383, use 6 inch rods, SRP lightweight pistons and good crankshaft. Line hone and deck the block to 0 or .005 piston in the hole. AFR make the best cylinder heads for the buck. Use AFR-195 heads. Then you know just what is within the engine.

Run the car up to 2000 RPM and check voltage at the heavy post on the alternator. Should be 13-14 volts if the alternator is working properly. If the voltage does not rise above 11-12 volts, then the alternator is not working. Check to see that the alternator is getting battery voltage excitation on the field winding. If yes, then the alternator is defective. If no, then a fuse may be blown. Fix same and try again for heavy post voltage 13-14 volts.

Rossman: Who is your source for electrical terminal strips etc as shown in previous photos? Please advise. Thanks.

The Gen I SBC started in 1955 through 1999 as standard production. Those produced from 1996 to 1999 I call Gen I+ one-piece rear seal and roller camshaft. The LT-1 and LT-4 are Gen II and the blocks and heads are different than Gen I and also have one-piece rear seal and roller camshaft. Technology from Gen II cylinder heads evolved into more advanced Vortec heads on 1996 to 1999 truck heads. The Gen III and IV engines are different casting than Gen I and II for block and cylinder heads. For similar displacement , cylinder heads technology and similar ignition/fuel injection systems, Gen I, Gen II and Gen III engine assemblies will yield nearly the same HP and TQ.

h4nsm0l3m4n: Now that is a VERY GOOD referral for chevy thunder. It appears that those are the folks in San Antonio Texas. They have been around for quite some time. Looks as though they can be trusted for Gen I, II, III and IV harnesses and PCM reprogramming.

Use test valve springs that allow hand opening of two valves with keepers and locks. Temporarily assemble head, head gasket to block. Rotate crankshaft till 10 degrees before and after TDC and push valves with test springs along with test depth gauge to get an accurate reading of piston to valve clearance.

Looks like the engine harness needs wrapping to make it neater. The stub axles on the 240 and 280Z are 25 and 27 spline respectively. They become the weakest point in the propulsion system after putting the R200 and CV half shafts in place.

Purchase a used '96 - '99 Vortec 350 Small Block Chevrolet that was taken out of a wreck. Because it has EFI, the cylinders are usually very good with little wear. Then bore and stroke it to a 383 with a cast steel crank. Forged Rods and SRP 4032 Pistons. Use AFR cylinder heads. Then you have something that has a lot of HP and TQ capability. Build it up yourself so you know exactly what you have. With the right heads, camshaft and induction system, 500+ HP and TQ is within reach. Suggest installing an EFI system.

Suggest going to 18cc dish piston such as KB-142 crown configuration. Deck the block to piston in the hole at .005". Use .030" thick MLS head gasket. This yields good squish. Machine down the Vortec Head valve guides for higher lift camshaft. Use good springs in the heads. Will need 360 HP at flywheel to get 300HP at rear wheels.

Surpip: 14 to 1 compression ratio is a bit much for the street. Best way to reduce static compression is to remove one of the heads, the oil pan and one of the piston/rod assemblies. Measure the bore diameter, piston diameter, piston compression height, rod length, deck height and combustion chamber volume. Go to kb-silvolite and run the static compression ratio with different size dished pistons to see what is needed. Then go to jepistons for the SRP professional pistons to see if there is a dish piston that will come close to what is needed. 3.875 is not particularly a short stroke. Retain all else with exception of the pistons and set up appropriate squish with the pistons and head gasket. If the cylinder heads have bolts, go to studs as they are much better for exact torque value.

Vega: Suggest that you invest in Desktop Dyno and use Comp Cams software. These will allow evaluation of different components and combinations.

Keith: Thanks for the encouragement. It is possible to specialize in Z-car LS conversions. More to the point, wiring is the big issue when rebuilding a Z-car. It would be best to take into consideration the 240, 260 and 280z cars. The 280Z and later wiring diagrams that Datsun/Nissan created are a big confusing mess. They made the diagrams way to complex. It would take several months to rework the diagrams into something the is a lot more straight forward and easier to follow. Then rework them again to incorporate zonal disconnects and fix up the design weak points. Next construct new replacement harnesses for the body and engine compartments that would accommodate various engine transmission combinations. First I would like to finish my 240Z and get it back onto the road.

Keith: Sorry to hear your experience with waitforme. Don't understand their attitude towards customers. Came from Civilian Aviation Electronics Industry and retired after 38+ years. Everything from constructing harnesses, repairing radios to certification specialist. I understand your frustration and am trying to help you the best way I know. I am also in the process of updating and converting a 1971 Datsun 240Z to a 383 stroker Generation 1 Small Block Chevrolet. I have gone the route that you are on with the harness. I have the PCM, harness, electronic throttle body, electronic gas pedal less one last electronic box to complete the set. After spending considerable monies on these items, went with Electromotive Ignition/Fuel Injection System. A lot more straight forward system that is a LOT MORE tunable. In the process of installing Bad Dog frame rails. I outlined in my last post what needs to be posted here in order that I can help sort out what is needed. You can post to LS1 forum to see what can be gained there. Best of Luck.

Keith: Suggest that you get the year and vehicle from which the PCM came from. Then to to alldatadiy and pay and download all the appropriate wiring diagrams of the PCM etc. Then use an ohmmeter and trace each unterminated wire back to an associated pin on the PCM etc. Then gather up all of this data and post here such that it can be determined what is what and what type of signals or terminations/interfaces need to be made. Also need to post wiring diagram for Cable X stuff.

Keith: Before doing anything with the modified engine harness, best to get waitformeperformance to identify each unterminated wire. They need to tell you if it needs a +12 volt source voltage or a negative/ground and whether either needs to be switched by what. They need to be explicit as to explanation for each and every unterminated wire in the harness. They need to come out with a table made up by you and then expand the table with columns explaining what needs to be done with each wire and how it needs to interface with what.

Why do you need 750HP?

Always paint the components in a lighter color such that leaks will show up easier.