rsicard

NESS89: Think SERIOUSLY about putting a "G" switch in series with the power wire to the fuel pump. No sense in feeding a possible fire with a broken fuel line in a crash.

Sean 71: dr_hunt has some very good suggestions with the 6.2 rods. I am building a SBC 350 stroker and have SRP pistons for 6.0" rods that weigh in at 376 grams. That is lighter than most all similar pistons. With long rods, lightweight pistons and internally balanced assembly, the reciprocating weights come down and well as the rotating weights of these components yielding a quicker spin-up. Couple this with an aluminum flywheel and light weight balancer should yield a quicker spin-up.

dr_hunt: Find it VERY interesting to follow your threads on your new shop and build on your vehicles. These are the most interesting at this time when the economy is down. Can't even read articles about L6 engines as it appears that they have cooling system design faults. Unless these are dealt with the engine building block foundation is weak to begin with. Hope that you have more good threads regarding your shop and vehicles.

Janaka: I second Savage42 question about trimming the inboard ends of the CV half shaft. Where have you seen this written? If you have something written about same please share. There is a locking ring contained within the differential. It never occurred to me to measure the former stub shafts removed from the R200 center section and compare them to the CV half shaft inboard ends. That is to say, is there a difference in measurement between the two? I just snapped my Z31 CV half shafts into the R200 CLSD center section and was done with it. After shortening the rear struts per John Coffeys write up the rear wheels and stub axles have a positive camber when the rear "A" arms are adjusted so there is adequate room for the CV half shaft. Make sense?

tonycharger72: Don't go accusing someone of doing wrong without proof. You jumped the gun and did so. You are the one that needs to settle down.

tonycharger72: I think that you have really gone off the edge of reality. I understand the mindset but do not agree with it. Have already contacted John Washington and it IS NOT HIS DESIGN!

Tonycharger72: Do you know John Washington personally? I wanted to SHARE the benefit of a custom dash with other Datsun owners. This dash solves the issue of realestate for custom gauges. There are some counterproductive statements made about this situation. If the design is intellectual property then so be it.

Dan Juday: I Emailed the seller through Ebay where I bought the custom dash. He replied that the dash was produced in Texas and said they have gone out of business. I will attempt to contact John to see if he is the one that sold the dash to me. I will ask if he purchased the dash from a firm in Texas as a subcontractor and is it intellectual property. The dash did not come with a paper stating that it is covered by an intellectural property statement.

Crimsin: I purchased a fibreglass dash from a fellow in Mesa Arizona. It is for a Datsun being converted to a Ferrari. I really like the dash BECAUSE it has a vertical dash pod right in front of the driver with considerable realestate for custom gauges. Before doing anything with it MAYBE there should be a plug made from this dash such that a carbon fiber dash can be laid up from the plug. Just wondering. Your thoughts?

If a large air bubble in the system is suspected, then follow my previous instruction except the engine does not have to be run. Just turn on the water hose fill the radiator and keep the garden hose sealed to the radiator fill port and PUSH the water all the way through the cooling system. Then reinstall the thermostat, top up the radiator, start the engine and check for flow within the radiator cap port. This is really a NO BRAINER.

Remove the thermostat and reseal without it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the top radiator hose and leave open. Start the engine and water should flow from the upper hose coming from the block. If not there is an obstruction between the outlet of the radiator (Lower Hose) and the block or there is a restriction within the block to head or within the head. Water should flow from the radiator bottom hose through the pump to the block up through the head and out the thermostat housing.

Also check the Lower Control Arm (LCA) inboard bushings. Then have the toe-in, and camber checked. Check the run-out, lateral and radial, of each wheel alone and the wheels with the tire mounted to make certain they are not TOO out of round or track.

What is the voltage value regulated in a normal charging system?

misturmoneybags: If it is boiling coolant there may not be enough pressure being built up in the system. Need to know the specifics of the vehicle. Which engine, how big the radiator, which cooling pump etc etc. Something REALLY wrong with the cooling system!

Gentlemen: The starter draws its large amount of energy from the battery to start the gasoline engine. During the start cycle the alternator is not rotating fast enough to contribute any energy to the situation. Once the gasoline engine has started, the alternator replenishes the energy used in starting back to the battery. With a 110 ampere alternator with a 70 ampere fusing, the energy from the alternator back to the battery did not exceed the 70 ampere figure. Immediately after the start the alternator current to the battery is at peak and tapers off till the battery is charged. It is the amplitude and amount of time of the peak current that MAY blow the 70 ampere fuse. Additionally, the alternator is excited by a small amount of current from the battery to produce a large amount of current back to the battery. The alternator is not spinning very fast after start and therefore not supplying FULL amperage but only a PORTION of its rated amperage until such time as the gasoline engine is revved up and the alternator supplies much more current/amperage back to the battery. Hope that this is a good explanation.

Lithium4750: There is a lot of misinformation out there. In higher current applications there should be adequate circuit protection. If the alternator were to internally short with an unprotected circuit to the batter and undersized cable between the battery and alternator, then said wire cable would heat up red burn off the insulation and likely start a FIRE under the hood. Best to put an appropriate easy to get at FUSE in series in this cable about the same amperage as the alternator is capable of supplying. Typically the most amount of current from the alternator to the battery flows just after the car is started to replenish the energy drained from the battery. Typically a smaller FUSE can be put in line to FEED the remainder of circuits within the vehicle as they DO NOT draw as much current as battery charging current. The automotive manufacturers always come VERY CLOSE on the wire gauge size for the battery charging circuit. It is always better to go with a larger wire gauge size in this charging circuit.

Domenic: I have refined my plan of attack and will go with 2x2" or 2.5x2.5" square tube. Additionally, the tube will be above the floor and through it at the ends joining the original subframe.

Savage42: Apparently you did not take the suggestion of reading David Vizards articles. There are ways to stave off knock other than increasing octane levels. Admittedly at some point of increasing compression there will be a need for higher octane gasoline.

240z!!! Keep looking and something will come along. Good V8 240Zs are worth keeping for the performance of the car. But someone may have to sell one in these financial times.

yhlz: MIG is what you want. You can start with a 110v input home welder with shielding gas and get good welds fairly easily. Going greater than 1/8" or 3/16" will require a MIG with 220v input and will provide much more current for thicker metals.

Savage42: Suggest you go research all the articles that David Vizard has written to get a better insight into internal combustion engines. I run 87 octane in a 1994 Chev Suburban 3/4 ton with a rebuilt BIG BLOCK 454 stroked 1/4" and bored .030" for 489 Cu In and Edelbrock Aluminum Heads with 8cc less chamber for 9.1:1 and it is NOT ANYWHERE NEAR knocking. Pistons, Heads, valves and ports coated with ceramic. And I live in Tucson Arizona where the temp gets VERY HIGH and still NO KNOCK! Go figure.

MoNkEyT88: The only thing obviously serious is the oil leakage appears to be from the cylinder head. Wash this down with solvent, fill the oil to the proper level and watch for more leakage and where it is coming from. Suggest taking along cans of STP for upper cylinder head lubrication IF the leak is at the cylinder head. The leakage may be from oil pressure gallery or return oil gallery. At worst the upper cylinder head is not getting FULL lubrication.

Boy from Oz: I bumped into a post I believe it was here on hybridz about a fellow that had vibrations in the driveline. He went so far as to remount the diff upward and realigned the tailshaft of the trans such that there was 3 degrees inclination on BOTH the front and rear of the drive shaft in relation to the trans and diff. I thinking about it this must provide a cancellation of vibration from both the front and rear U joints by an equal amount. Look for the post as it was VERY INFORMATIVE.

kon: First depends upon the condition of the Z car. I purchased a 1971 240Z and it had some neglect. After fixing most of the neglect it is a pretty good vehicle. It must have been hit in the right front and the passengers floor is bent upward. Still have to set up special tooling to figure out how much out of line it is. Once you get used to the 260/280Z the biggest problem will be your level of skill in fabricating and fixing. The cost will depend upon what condition and quality you are looking for in the final product.

canyoncarver: I was just at a CNC machine shop to talk to the boss. He offered to sell me a knee milling machine. The first thing I asked is where was it made. He said China. Then I asked how much. He said $3500.00. I did not pursue it any further. What I did not express to him is HOW does one get repair parts for his milling machine??? I am certain that he would have stumbled to answer that question. Thanks but NO THANKS for Chinese built Milling Machines. If they were built in Taiwan and had a traceable source of repair parts, then MAYBE I might consider it. Grumpyvette purchase a milling machine from Grizzly. I purchased a vertical band saw from Grizzly and there is a traceable source of repair parts. I know first hand because the motor controller went defective in three months and Grizzly replaced same at no charge. I have a 194X 13x40 South Bend Lathe and purchased it locally. Fixed up the slop in the head, leveled it and purchased a Quick Change Tool Post. So far I am quite happy with the South Bend Lathe and the ability to get parts for this old a lathe. There are several forums for the South Bend Lathe and I suspect the same is true for the Bridgeport Milling Machine. That is why I will stick with Bridgeport.