rsicard

My intent to use 2x3" rectangular tube is to be able to ALSO weld a Roll Cage to these tubes to ADD torsional STRENGTH, safety and protection. It was only will recently that I learned through pictures how the Bad Dog subframe reinforcements worked. Additionally, my passengers floor and original subframe is bent upwards requiring cutting and removing same and then straightening the bent subframe and welding it back to the floor. Rather than that process, just remove portions of both subframes and fab in 2x3" tubing and weld it in to join the front and rear sturdier structures. Then add a Roll Cage and other ladder frame structural stiffeners. Again, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Roostmonkey: Thanks for your comments. If the original subframe channels are not rusted nor bent, then adding the BadDog channels is a good strengthening move. People should uncover the original channels to make certain they have good integrity. If they are rusted through then adding the BadDog channels may add only some integrity i. e. a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

qwikrex: I saw a post here on Hybridz concerning the application of Bad Dog subframe reinforcements. With all due respect to the folks here and Bad Dog, after reviewing the posts the Bad Dog parts appeared to be a BANDAID to the original subframe. This reinforced the thinking of cutting out the bent portion of the subframe rail and putting it 2x3" rectangular tubing and welding same to front and rear structures. This should be MUCH stronger than patching with Bad Dog pieces from what I have seen of the pictures on that Web site.

rytherwr: Not challenging the usage of standard length Bosch type injectors. The question is with standard length injectors and the Edelbrock fuel rails, where are the fuel rails mechanically attached near the top to stabilize the injectors because the fuel rail is intended to be used and mounted with the Pico injectors? If I can do the same then I may depending on the cost of the standard length injectors. Please advise. Thanks.

The Small Block Chevrolet was introduced in 1955. Even now it is still popular as a Gen I configuration. The Gen III and Gen IV in Racing Corvettes are winning races and they are PUSH ROD engines NOT overhead cam engines! If you turbo charge or super charge them the power increases substantially. For the compactness of the engine it can produce much power. NASCAR is still using the Small Block Chev with Pushrods and still winning. The most prevalent problem with NASCAR engines is the valve springs. The overhead cam appears to be nothing more than hype. Formula 1 is something different because it DOES NOT have valve springs but has overhead cams.

Start looking at the German manufacturers.

Tony D: I am restoring a 1971 240Z. A SBC 383 stroker, 500HP/500FtLbs Torque, is intended to go into it along with a 93-97 T56 with 0.50 6th gear and 3.7 CLSD R200 with CV half shaft and BEEFY MM stub axles. Without wind drag, 6000 rpm in top gear = 231mph. I want to install a vertically extended rear wing for rear down force and an air dam in front extending as close to the ground as possible with a NASCAR type horizontal splitter at the bottom of the air dam. I want to keep the openings on the front of the air dam to the smallest possible with good cooling and Ram Air for engine intake air. I would like to try to hit or surpass 150MPH without the front lifting. Your comments please.

Grumpyvette: I consulted with the Compcams Technical representative BEFORE I purchased the 818-16 solid roller lifters. In fact there was no reply to the Email when I made them aware of the FACT!!! There was NO MENTION of interference or any machining to be done in his Email and recommended the 818-16 over the 888-16 (0.3 inches taller). Then I went ahead and purchased the lifters only to find out that the lifter OPPOSITE from the one being lifted was lifted SLIGHTLY all the time. The link bar is symetrical and can be put on either way but still causes the opposite lifter to be SLIGHTLY lifted when it not supposed to be. As for the lifter preload, it appears that compcams can get away from lifter pump-up, i.e. valve floating/lifting when not desired, by merely putting into bold print the zero to 1/8th turn preload. The same may hold true with GM factory lifters set the same way for pre-load. Get the picture?

Grumpyvette: Would like to get your comments on this situation. I have a 1 piece rear main seal SBC 350 stroked to 383. Ordered received replacement hyd roller lifters, also ordered and received Compcams 875-16 hyd roller lifters and lastly purchased 818-16 solid roller lifters. On the solid roller lifters, consulted with Compcams before purchasing same and 818-16 was recommended. Ordered and received same, tested them and the link bar on the lifter at the base circle of cam lifts slightly when the other for the same cylinder is lifted by the cam. Related this to Compcams via Email and NO REPLY!!! Not good. Then ordered the 875-16 Compcam hyd lifters and received the following instructions: "As stated before the best setting is ZERO to 1/8 of a turn". Hmmm, normally the instruction is to 1/2 turn after adjusting/tightening lack of vertical slack. Your comments PLEASE. Would greatly appreciate your comments

qwikrex: The photo you provided appears to be a rectangular tube with a cut in the floor wherein the floor is welded to the new tube. The bad dog reinforcement channel goes on the outside of the original subframe to beef up same. I am going to use 2x3" rectangular tube which will join the front and rear structures. My 240Z passengers floor is buckled up along withe original subframe. Will require cutting out part of the original subframe and joining in the new 2x3" rect tube. Maybe I will take the same tack as the one in the photo on your post wherein the floor is cut and welded to the 2x3 tube. On second thought this maybe very good as I can weld a roll cage directly to the 2x3 tube.

240zJon: If you find a donor at the right price you have the start of a project.

Don't believe the missing balance marks are the issue. Is the engine a 2 piece rear seal or 1 piece rear seal. I believe it should be a 1 piece rear mail seal. What are the specifics on the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. There should be a pilot bearing pressed into the crankshaft. The T56 was used for the 93-97 LT1 engines. The flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate need to be for this setup. I have the same and will use a Fidanza flywheel, Centerforce clutch disk and pressure plate. For this combination there needs to be special GM part number bolts for the pressure plate. The clutch is a PULL TYPE clutch versus a PUSH type clutch. If you have something different please spell out the differences.

Grumpyvette: Another couple of questions, I now have a cometic head gasket and am using head studs. What sealer if any should be used on the cometic head gaskets? The block of course is iron and the heads are aluminum. Should I use Hylomar or a thread sealer on the upper portion of the stud threads that go into the block and Blue Loctite on the lower portion of the threads that go into the block to lock the studs and to seal up the water jackets? I plugged the LARGE coolant holes to the heads and drilled 3/16" in the plugs for coolant flow. Should I have the block surfaced AGAIN after installing the LARGE coolant plugs. Tryed to level the outer portion of the LARGE coolant holes in the block with the remainder of the block. Please advise. Thanks.

Grumpyvette: Trying to interpret the phrase "your engine shops correct at some rpms". Apparently the QUITE Jackson Gear Drive does not always affect the EFI Knock sensor. I am building a 1 piece rear main seal block and the camshaft sensor is the distributor without the high tension side. Really don't want to run a chain as it will develope slack and then cause scatter in the cam sensor timing. I guess I would rather put up with the occasional knock sensor going crazy and retarding the ignition timing.

Grumpyvette: Another question. In the build of my Gen I SBC, I intend to eventually go to fuel injection. This will have knock sensors. Right now I have a single row roller timing chain because I have to fit a reluctor wheel ahead of it and shorten the snout on the balancer. I would really like to use a Quiet gear drive versus the chain but the manufacturers say this interferes with the Knock Sensors. My question to you is have you seen any acoustic data on the gear drives and knock sensors? At what frequencies are the knock sensors most active? What is the acoustic signature of the Pete Jackson Quiet Gear Drive if you know?

jbc3: Whose and what type lifters did you use to spin it to 7000 RPM? Either the crank had a defect in it or the damper induced the crank to fail. Whose and what type of damper were you using on this engine. I am building a SBC similar to this and want to gain knowledge from your unfortunate experience. What was the displacement of the engine?

Heavy85: What year Camaro did you use the plastic tank from? Please advise. Thanks.

Grumpyvette: I had asked you before about the strength of a 2 bolt versus 4 bolt main SBC blocks especially those with 1 piece rear main seal. I have also spotted girdles for 2 bolt blocks and valley girdles also. Please see http://www.horsepowersales.net and evaluate and comment please about using these valley girdles and crankshaft main cap girdles concerning strenghening the block. Your thoughts please.

deja: Before ordering the pushrods, use an adjustable push rod with the new rockers and reworked heads. If the rockers are self aligning there is no need for guide plates. If not then guide plates need to be added. In either case use 5/16" hardened .080" wall pushrods. I am building a similar SBC and have been through this process. Be confident that the valve springs are up to the task.

janaka: The best advice would be to put synthetic tubing in the cement garage floor and pump warm/hot water through that floor. Before the house is done and part of the build is to put 220V single phase to the garage in a central overhead outlet. Then a pig tail or welder can be directly plugged into the overhead outlet. Then when the builder is finished, stub in 110v outlets along the walls in the garage. Then insulate and put in moisture barrier the garage an put up sheet rock. Then put up cabinets at waist level upward such that vehicles can be put into the garage without interference.

slown280z: Where are you at in Lower Arizona? I noted your mention of CAD. Which CAD program do you use or recommend? Please advise. Thanks.

josh817: Best advise is to follow David Vizard as closely as possible. Build engines to a checklist and measure EVERYTHING twice and write it down on a form along with all the components used. Then dyno tune each engine and document each configuration of the engine. If you change something on the dyno, document same. After building some of the same engines the power numbers will come up and peak.

rytherwr: I plan to use the ProXT manifold also. Did you use the Pico injectors from Edelbrock or longer other injectors? If not Pico injectors, then what was used for the fuel rail and fuel regulator? Please advise. Thanks.

The third photo down there appears to be a fracture of the crank counterweight. It sure looks like a Lunati crank, quite likely a forged piece.

gvincent: I fabbed one of these and it appears that items 7,8,9 can be rectangular. I made it for my 240Z but have yet to install the V8 still being built. I intend to purchase one of the rear Bad Dog frame rails as a pattern to make my own from 2x3" tubing. Then attach the T56 crossmember to the 2x3 subframe rails that replace the originals.