rsicard

dsommer: I checked out your link to your V8 install? It is confusing but were you removing or installing a 383 stroker into the Datsun? I really like the photos of the build or teardown whichever it is.

youngblood: Thanks VERY MUCH for the photos. Always wondered EXACTLY how the Bad Dog rails fit on the Datsun. With your photo it becomes VERY obvious. They are meant to slip over and weld to the existing rails. The RH rail on my 240Z is bent upward. Then the only way is to remove the spot welds and cut out the bent section. Straighten same, straighten the floor and weld the original rail into place. Then apply the Bad Dog rail over original and weld it in.

Flexicoker: Thanks very much for your explanation. As for the design of the A-arm I agree with you. There is something about it that appears to be weak to me. Perhaps not. As for the rear A-arm, when the Datsun is level the aft A-arm should be a zero degrees caster. Caster should make not difference in the rear. If the A-arm is at near zero caster and a H design A-arm is use with a little toe-in if there is any twisting of the strut when transitioning from full down to full up, the heim joints can rotate the small amount is there is any twisting at all. The arcs that both heim joints swing through should remain constant from what I can imagine. If they both remain a constant arc then I don't see any twisting motion of the strut. Perhaps I am not visualizing it proper but I just cannot imagine same.

Still don't understand why the "A" arms are better than the TTT H arms.

BRAAP: Go see the following for a LSx in a BMW E36. http://www.nash8503.com.

grumpyvette: Looking for the same exact thing. Went to a used machine shop equipment seller and looked at two Bridgeport mills. One with and one without a Digital Read Out (DRO). After thinking about it, if the DRO does not have mechanical sensors then I would like to have same on my mill. I have purchased a band saw from Grizzly and it is pretty good. The mill in the link looks very good. After that, I also want metal lathe. Grew up with one of these in my garage owned by my brother. Was very handy to have.

Careless: Already designed a fan circuit for him.

Stan: You had a real life experience with fire. These will OPEN your eyes wide open to the possiblities. I have been an aircraft owner 3 times over. I actually worked at AiResearch at the LAX airport under contract. It was my first job as a designer/engineer. What an experience. The fellow I was replacing left the MOST difficult job for me on one project aircraft. I solved it and came out smelling like a rose. My boss at AiResearch was one GREAT fellow and had a drawing system that was second to none. I learned it well and everything since then about wiring diagrams will never compare to it. Then I went to Learjet and what a let down. Getting back to wiring, TXL and GXL are similar in makeup to Mil 22759 which is what we used in aircraft. TXL has a thinner insulating jacket than GXL. I worked in the Santa Barbara area for a fellow with very strict wiring rules. He rightly maintained that what ever power wire we were going to put in the aircraft MUST pop its circuit breaker when grounded at the very end same. This is BY FAR the best wiring rule that I learned. FAA Advisory Circular (AC) FAR 43.13 has a wire length versus gauge, current, and heat rise in the wire that is very good. I still maintain all these FAA ACs on my computer. The Datsun wires in my 240Z have much fewer strands than american made wire.

Stan: I am surprised at what 240Hoke said about EZ wire. "use different amounts of copper strands". This is NOT GOOD. Not to worry Stan, the hand drawn schematic/wiring diagram done for the cooling fan has a separate 1 amp fuse for the relay coils. This fuse should be as close to the relays as possible. I worked at Learjet and we had a model 35 aircraft that for some reason burned a wire, which should NEVER happen in an aircraft, and all it needed was a fuse or circuit breaker in the relay/solenoid wiring. But this would be a hidden fault if it blew, which again should NEVER have in an aircraft. The head of engineering poo-poo'd same. But I never did and also found multiple bit of bad engineering in other circuits which I was not allowed to fix. Being in aircraft engineering, I really know about wire size and current carrying capabilities and causes of electrical fires. I follow aircraft accidents very carefully. I come up with my own best synopsis as to why things happen.

240hoke: Have you compared wire colors/functions between Ez wiring and Painless Wiring documents? Just curious if they both use the same wire color per wire function. Thanks for saying that a schematic is invaluable. Produced a schematic for 240Z2NV for a 2 speed cooling fan using control wires from a PCM designed for DUAL cooling fans. I have 38+ years of Aviation Electronics experience from technician/installer level to designer/engineer/FAA and foreign certification. I have seen and worked on all kinds of wiring diagrams, interfacing all kinds of Avionics, from all kinds of Aviation Mod centers. I specialized in Flight Management Systems which manage MANY sensors including GPS into ONE navigation solution. This is one of the most complicated and useful systems going into Corporate Jet Aircraft.

Horatio: The one thing about the Ebay advertizement that makes me scratch my head is 3 row??? The Datsun conversion book in Chapter 12 shows the end of the radiator core which is one or two oval 1.5" tubes. I purchase a Jags That Run (JTR) radiator and it appears to be a single row. This offers the least resistance to airflow through the radiator and the best transfer of heat to the airflow through it. To be more efficient it appears that a single row tube of something longer than 1.5" and yet the same height yields more heat transfer surface with the least amount of drag to the airflow through the radiator.

Tony D: Sure makes a hell of a lot of sense what you have experienced. The springs are just another failure point. Thanks ever so much for the explanation. Did not know about solid hubs but they make a LOT OF SENSE. Now I want a solid hub clutch disk!

rytherwr: It appears that you are using an Electromotive ignition. Does the same system also handle the Edelbrock fuel injection or is there a separate controller for it? I want to use the Pro-Flo XT RAM manifold, Pico injectors, Fuel Rails but use a GM Gen III PCM to control the Fuel Injection. Just wondering where you purchased the Edelbrock components.

Tony D: Just for my education what is a sprung hub versus a solid disk? I refer to the sentences: "You Datsun Guys and your sprung hubs. I swear. Drive a solid disc like the VW guys do and you don't have to worry about your springs compressing...and if you have any competence with your left foot control and clutch release, it drives just as nice as a sprung hub, with less to go wrong!"

Tony D: You are right on the mark. It is about the tweaks and polishing. Knowing that there are certain things that help make MORE power.

Robello is not about to give away their secrets when it comes to engine building. If you have been following the threads about quench/squish some of the secrets have already leaked out. Robello is not the only ones to know the secrets of good fast combustion without attendant knock.

Good deal on the hood clearance. Now I can go ahead with the RamJet manifold.

240Z2NV: Don't give up there is help here. There is also a fellow on classiczcars.com in the 240 Electrical section that may be able to help also. He supplies vendors with modification harnesses for the Datsuns. I personally have 38+ years experience in Aviation Electronics all the way from wiring aircraft to designing interfaces between the black boxes and doing certification of same. Please describe the electrical configuration (240z?) you are looking to do. There are cheaper ways to go than (most expensive) Painless Wiring. On Ebay right now there is a 240Z Series 2 Dash Harness. I am looking for a Series 1 Dash Harness that I can reverse engineer.

Roostmonkey: I want to do the same thing. I am leaning toward a plastic unit with foam inside in that when hit lightly the plastic will absorb and rebound. I want to mount it in a fabbed steel frame where the spare tire is now with aluminum skinned out frame. I want a 15-20 gal tank with GM sender and sump. Have not yet found an internal fuel pump to fit. External fuel pump may be better. Starting out with Carb but will be converting to GM Gen III EFI. Also want to use the Datsun for occasional track day.

Electric or mechanical fuel pump, it is always advisable to have a pressure regulator and return fuel line.

Grumpy: I am building a 1-piece rear seal SBC 350 stroked to a 383. The main bearing caps have already been line honed and ARP studs installed. I have been nagged by thoughts about using a 4 bolt main block with a 1-piece seal instead. I have purchased AFR 195 CNC heads and all the bottom end is forged. Will use a GM Hot Cam after closely investigating Compcams Web site. This should get good torque. Question, is the 4 bolt main block SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the 2 bolt block? Was planning a more aggressive camshaft in an attempt to get 500Hp and 500Ft/Lbs of torque. With the hot cam not likely to achieve these numbers. Is the two bolt block up to the task with these items installed? Hopefully only intermittently going to push 400+ HP and Torque. The block has been shaved for 0.005" top of piston in block and planning 0.028 GM head gasket for good quench/squish. Am planning to ceramic coat the combustion space in the heads, exhaust ports and backside of tops of valves to reduce detonation and carbon from sticking. Would appreciate your comments to the questions and this scheme. Thanks.

kk240: The centerforce 153 tooth STEEL flywheel weighs 28+ pounds. I purchased a Fidanza aluminum flywheel of 11 pounds on Ebay for $300+. Purchased the GM adapter from GMpartsdirect.com. Cannot recall the cost for same. Purchased the Centerforce dual friction clutch disk and pressure plate off of Ebay for substantially less than same on Summit Racing. It did have some rust but media blasted this off. Purchased the slave cylinder from Summit Racing manufactured by McLeod. Purchased the specific bolts which attach the pressure plate to the flywheel from GMpartsdirect.com.

Bigdeezs: Which fuel injection system is this on the LSx system in these photos?

rdelat: Got so enthused with your photos, should not have asked about making air damns. Hope to hear something from you soon. Hope you will make these items out of fiberglass. I REALLY LIKE the aero front, just needs to be extended downward and I will add a splitter to the bottom ala NASCAR COT.

SATAN: Did Mark Williams make a set of BEEFY stub axles and inboard CV half shaft mating flanges for you with 5x4.5 wheel stud spacing? What EXACTLY is the issue about of the CV shaft holding in the carrier?