WizardBlack

I did some research with the FSM and also talking to some bodymen that I know. They looked over the car with me as well. On a standard body, all they can do is mount the car in a frame rack and then proceed to adjust leveling of the chassis so that the known good datum measurements are correct. Essentially there is a datum line (similar to ground level) that all these location points are measured off of. When these undamaged areas fit the measurements, then the measuring stick of the frame rack becomes the datum line and you can proceed to check and correct the damaged area so datum measurements are correct in that area as well. In a datsun, it appears that the pinchweld is pretty close to it, but it does not say for sure. The outboard edges of the floorboard (factory chassis is one piece of metal from left floorpan, up and down the trans tunnel and across the other floorpan) where it is spot welded to the rocker is evidently straight at least. I would level the car so that the edge of the floorpan where it terminates with a ~3/4" lip turned upward to spot weld to those rockers is level. If your spot weld lines along the front and back of the floorpans are intact then that pretty much dictates where the pan goes there. That merely leaves the side-to-side level of the floopan when you weld it to the trans tunnel which you can use magnetic levels to determine (as long as you level those floorpan edges from one side of the car to the other). The distinctive locating points on a Datsun are front strut tops (inclined 13 degrees 45 minutes), engine mount holes (45 degrees) in the front subframe, front differential mount and rear strut top holes (16 degrees 17 minutes). As a side note, it does not really indicate measurements for the frame rails under the floorpan. The frame rails in the engine bay are evidently supposed to be perfectly parallel with each other (638mm inside measurement) In my eyes, that pretty much indicates that unless you distort your trans mount (or door openings because the rest of the body is weakened) while welding the stuff in it does not matter. Just get them level and parallel with each other and put them as close as you can with what was there before.

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I am looking for a repair panel below tail lights from a car someone is parting or scrapping. I can do some repair but no holes, etc. I have the MSA panel already and don't really like it. Thanks!

Yeah a honda or bike battery would help. I would use a sealed battery. In case of a flat cell you just find a honda battery which is easy enough. You won't save much weight due to battery cables but it will shift a bit fore to aft.

I usually see that bars are located so the top of the bar is at or slightly above the top of the seat holes lest someone who is properly sized for that seat would nonetheless have a bad harness angle. Bar is usually 4~6 inches behind seat back.

That is also not true as you could deform an aluminum seat in an impact and therefore still leave you with harness issues. The lip around the shoulder harness holes should not be trusted for seat belt support. I would not let the harness touch the flimsy Al seats at all.Perhaps we are trying to say the same thing, but shoulder straps should be level or sloping up as they move to bar. They should not be bent or deforming around seat holes. They could otherwise cause spinal issues. If the holes don't center around your shoulders then you probably need a different seat.

What exactly on the car is level that you should use to 'level' the car?

I gotta do this too, so I will be sure to keep an eye and add whatever I can. My '77 is stripped so I can get some pics and measurements from my RB swap too.

LOL. Yeah I wish.

I don't know what type of system you have compared to my oddball '77 280Z, so bear that in mind. I had McKinney send me about every mount he made and none were close. I would just like to talk about the setup of a trans mount system in general. If you are talking about compliance of the trans mount, just be sure that your engine mounts have at least an equal reduction in non-compliance. Otherwise, most of the torsion of the powertrain will be absorbed by the trans mount. That can tear up your trans tunnel or trans or mount. The trans tunnel has a substantial brace for the stock trans so be sure to at least have an equal amount of built up support on the frame for the increased power levels of an RB. I would go to thick urethane on the engine mounts and that will help make sure you don't overload your trans mount.

Opinions on engine preference are engines. You can't take someone else' opinion unless you just want us to tell you what to get. An older engine that is more common and cheaper is more commonly built up cheaper and therefore is not as good of gains or not as reliable. That must be taken into consideration when looking at what's out there. Most RB transplants make good power because not many spend big bucks on RB powertrains (and parts for it) and then try to do a poor tune or buildup on it. Ultimately you should be searching countless threads on here and elsewhere that will help you form your own educated opinion. Otherwise you are looking for someone to talk you into their viewpoint. I highly recommend you not buy a powertrain or otherwise spend thousands of dollars based on an opinion thread. Based on this: im wondering is going on the effort of doing a l28et, which I know you can get roughly 350hp with some head work and hx35 turbo and etc, or would it be better to go rb25 to get close to that power stock.i also love the way the l28et sound, but rb25 look so nice in the bay of the z. It sounds to me like it's more of an emotional thing and you like the L for sound and the RB for looks. No one is going to decide that one for you. But please try to use complete sentences so we understand what you are trying to say.

This. Don't worry about anything other than start enrichment and idle until that works correctly. Minimum injector time doesn't matter that much. If it's 0.3 millisec too low, it will be compensated by 0.3 millisec more in your fueling cells. As long as it's getting approximately the correct amount of fuel, you can tweak it closer later. The only time an incorrect minimum injector time becomes a problem is if it's too high and you cannot take enough fuel out to idle. Start low. Make sure your timing sync is correct. Otherwise, you will be super rich and try continually leaning it out and then it will go lean with practically nothing in the middle. Get some more plugs, too, before you continue. You ran too long on those plugs if you got almost to warmed up temp. Take that variable out of the equation and you can switch back to them later.

The S30 is typically set up with 10% stiffer in the rear and more around 200~300 lb/in. S13 coilovers are more like 33% stiffer in the front. Not to mention they are way stiffer all around. IMHO it is not a good solution unless you account for a revalving of the struts. AZC has a proper solution for that sort of setup.

Yeah, it's in the sticky.

Well for the prices you are talking, you can get some very nice welded in flares (more like custom body sculpting) like some German or Italian cars use to cover those fat tires and keep a good track.Then again, if i had ten grand or more to crap out on rear IRS like that I would go ahead and get a factory five type 65 coupe since that's kinda what you are moving towards anyway.

OK, I have the car completely stripped. Everything is off. Wiring harness, steering column, panels, suspension, carpet, etc. I am planning on doing Bad Dog and Zedd parts to get the frame rails and floorpans replaced first. After this comes replacing the quarters and back panel with California takeoff quarters and an MSA back panel or something else instead. The MSA panel is not 3D curved, but rather just 2D curved; it doesn't curve from one side to the other. I may look into a metal working tool to fix that. I don't know yet. I am still a bit unsure on the floorpans and frame rails procedure, but I have an idea. Here is what I am going to do: - Jack the car up level on a wood beam on the moustache bar mount points and another sitting under the front subframe mounting points on the front frame rails. - I will leave the seat mount points in to retain trans tunnel to rocker panel dimensions. - I know people say to put the trans mount in as well, but mine has been cut out partly to necessitate an RB swap. The reinforcement that the trans mount bolts to fouls on the trans somewhat and the speedo sensor is entirely fouled by the reinforcement. I will instead weld a bar across the area instead. - Take some measurements to line up the frame rail laterally and perhaps make some marks at the front and back of the car to run a string for rail centerline, etc. Take some measurements for span between rails. - Having done that, I will cut one side out. Frame rail and floorpan both. - Weld in the floorpan. - Weld in the frame rail. - Repeat with the other side. I know the front has been hit and one front frame rail seems to be bent right at the front subframe mounting point. I have not decided if I want to replace those, or just leave it as is. Either way I will install reinforcing tubes and plates for the swaybar mounts. For reference, as of Feb. 2014 the Zedd Findings floor pans (which come from Canada) were $260 plus $69 shipping and the Bad Dog 280Z Frame Rails were $230 for the pair including shipping. As you see in the picture, there is a lot of bondo in the back end. It seems that the back panel was smashed up quite a bit and had the rear end 'shaved' by welding everything together and filling with bondo. There was at least 1/4" or more in a lot of places. The right side wheel well had sections gone from rust. They ground the rust off and then filled it in with bondo. In that area, there were two spots that had max depth of 3/4" of bondo. Fortunately I got a set of quarters (not just quarter panels) from a California car that someone was scrapping out by cutting the car in sections with a sawzall. I just need a rear panel if anyone had one as the ideal solution.

I think most S30's nowadays are either rotted pretty badly or already restored and worth a mint. Especially the older and thinner 240's.

So sorry to hear that. I guess a lot of us could say that a little piece of Ross is in many of our beloved Z's and we continue to trust our lives to him every day. I have brake parts and differential setup from him on mine. I can just imagine a map of the world with all the little dots for all the cars and lives being entrusted to him every day.

I wanted to post a quick update to my project. I have all the components to do a Q45 swap ready to go. Likewise, I have a nice low mileage (or looks that way, you know how it goes) RB25DET with Wolf V500 almost prepped. After cutting the cage out (can't drive it without helmets, otherwise) I realized that I have some rust that the PO covered with bondo before painting. The RB sits on an engine stand whilst I prep the body panels for surgery. Phase one will be both quarter panels and back end. Phase two will be some floorpan repair (or replacement) and frame rails. Pics should be up soon of everything!

Note that the OP has lawyers in the family, so... I have no doubt that the OP directed the shop to make the non-standard modifications to the car that are not "certified crash testing compliant" by the manufacturer. All in all, a family lawyer will know how to get a buy off at least. Likewise they won't list the name of the shop as part of the 'proceedings', so no point in asking. OP, a certain level of understanding of cars is necessary when you go messing with a fourty year old car and having it heavily modified and then YOU and not the shop in question drives it on public streets in an aggressive manner. Take a bit of responsibility for your own track toy and make sure you know what is done to your car and have the knowledge to confirm that it is safely executed. <Edited out more blunt factual statements>

Be careful with the S30, BTW. If you strip the power train out and front suspension, the balance point is right at or BEHIND the rear jack point. At least on my '77 with aluminum dash and such it is.

I know the imported skylines had five cats on them to meet emissions (at least the one GT-R R33 Vspec I worked on did) and it did not have rear sensors on the otherwise stock setup. OP just getcha a standalone with that catalytic money instead and a wideband.

It didn't eat your injectors? Stock or aftermarket?

I use those all the time at work. They are made for manufacturing, such as on pneumatically controlled robotics, etc. They work as well but are pricey. I don't see any major advantage with them, but I guess if you like the style, go for it.You can probably get that stuff cheaper at McMaster Carr and Grainger, etc. the hose can be found at big box stores. Heck even the fitting can as well at times. Just stay away from the plastic fittings.

Sorry to confuse. What I meant is EFI fuel lines are braided with nylon and very tough. If you tell a parts store monkey that you want fuel line they might give you the cheaper non-braided stuff for carbed cars, etc. that would not do. I use EFI fuel line from Goodyear all the time. They are harder to remove and reuse without losing the end, but they are easy to source and hold up well. Silicone is good for it as well but rather floppy. I like the temp rating on them but I tend to only order and install silicone for actual couplers anymore.