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WizardBlack

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Everything posted by WizardBlack

  1. IMHO, if you have the money for an RB you aught to be using a standalone. Blowthrough works but only if you have enough control of the ECU. A factory car likely has an airtemp sensor in the manifold or it has a carefully calibrated adjustment for hotter air temps based on boost pressure, etc. This is all highly dependent on the factory intercooler, turbo, etc. MAF-wise, I will explain a bit of the MAF dynamics so ppl can understand how to place the MAF. When fluid (liquid or gas) flows through a pipe, it starts out very disorganized. As it continues to flow through the same pipe, it starts to take on a velocity profile with respect to distance from the wall of the piping. In other words, the air flowing through the very center of the pipe flows a lot faster than the air flowing along the wall of the pipe. This is the velocity profile. When you have a factory setup, the MAF and ECU are carefully calibrated for the velocity profile that the intake system experiences. It is all made to stay consistent and predictable. The piping BEFORE the MAF is crucial. Especially the airbox design, how many bends there are, etc. Bends will cause the air to crash to the outside edge of the bend after the bend and it will take a while to reestablish the same profile, so having a MAF after a bend is bad. Right before the bend will also do it a bit. Having a MAF not at the center of the piping is bad. Having the MAF somewhere that the center of the pipe reads hardly anything is bad (such as RIGHT after the start of the pipe; the air will flow into the pipe like a toilet flushing and won't read much at the center or it will be chaotic). For idle, you should have pretty solid control of your idle solenoid, stepper, whatever it is. In addition to that, you can use an authorized range of about 10 degree timing plus or minus to also step in after the idle circuit is adjusted to about half of it's authority. If you want it to idle smooth, run it just a tad rich. If you want it to idle efficient, you will need more IAC to do it and authorize and bit larger rpm range to wander around in. If you want it to sound cool and lopey, narrow the rpm range, use timing and leave it leaner so you also don't foul the plugs. Colder plugs and bigger injectors will require the timing unless you want to raise idle rpm (which i would not do too much). If it retards too much while idling, you will cook your engine bay.
  2. By the way, that is not compound but rather asymmetric sequential operation that you described. It can be sequential to efficiently achieve high pressure levels with lower tech turbos. Assymmetry is pointless unless you use a valving system to only keep one turbo in the loop at low rpm and even then, you get two instances of spool delay if you rev high enough to hit the second turbo. Mkiv supras do that, actually. The only other use aside from marketing is if you have packaging issues (ie., fitting it in the engine bay). I used to have a Megasquirt and iirc there were some more complex issues in getting the variable nozzle to work on some of the turbos.
  3. Installing a "drag" angle for the differential is unnecessary because the diff is mounted SOLID at the rear. I don't know what your front diff mount looks like but I doubt it will twist or dip like an OEM rubber bushed differential in a car with lots of extra HP. I would look at the moustache bar and front mount with some careful measurements. I have a MM setup for the Q45 VLSD with AZcar rear bar and TTT front mount, IIRC. It is all on the shelf if you want measurements to compare the moustache bars. I think double floating is not too bad if you don't have extreme angles while actually driving, which can be improved by ensuring the axles are level at rest. Some travel for suspension extension and some travel for suspension compression. Your diff is using too little for extension and too much for compression. That is probably what caused the failure that everyone seems on board with. It sounds to me like you may have built a way to safeguard from immediate failure but I would consider relocating the diff up as far to level as you can get. LUK
  4. Might I ask something? In regards to the suspension movement from lots of torque. Does it not depend on the vehicle? Motorcycles will completely extend the suspension when you accelerate hard enough. I guess you could say that's the extreme opposite argument to help understand the nature of suspension. I thought one school of thought, as stated here, it to tune the suspension movement (squat/anti-squat) to what you use the car for and where the static load was, etc. I've seen street, erm drag, racers tune their old school cars to actually rise up in the rear when doing burnouts like a bike will. I would presume because they will end up losing enough front end weight as it is (trying to avoid wheelies). Road racers will tune the squat to allow a controlled transfer of weight under relatively lower amounts of acceleration to transfer tire load to the rear in corners so they don't burn out the front tires.
  5. Those definitely look like parts of a journal bearing turbo. Look up rebuild kits on ebay to see what I mean. I've seen a lot of cars that lose >any< sort of bearing wash the rest of the little particles all through the engine. Everywhere. I'd honestly have the head and block taken all the way apart and have a machine shop flush through the journal plugs to get everything out. I've seen what can happen otherwise.
  6. I used McKinney with the poly mounts. I also used an inclinometer and lots of string, etc. I stayed under 3 degrees with the inclinometer to measure diff flange and front end of the crank pulley, etc. Lateral is pretty easy with string. The McKinney mounts are nice because it is easy to use shims with those mounts to tweak side-to-side angle and elevation compared to the diff mount.
  7. Sounds like your fuel layout will work, but you're gonna need really long battery cables to run the battery from your truck.
  8. There are a lot of critical angles that need to be considered when you stuff a powertrain into a car. If you are not sure "how easy it is", then it probably is not. Buy from someone who already has it figured out. It is still not that simple, however. Likewise, the SR swap is cheaper than the RB swap. Keep reading and learning before you pull the trigger.
  9. I have not heard of that, but you must remember that a surge tank has four fittings in it. The in-tank pump feeds the surge tank and then there is a return to the cell. Then there is a fitting to feed the big fuel pump and a return coming in from the fuel rail. Two in, two out. If your return to the fuel cell isn't big enough, then you could build pressure, I suppose. -10 return to the surge tank is overkill, but sizing a small return to the cell/tank (because it runs next to the in-tank feed pump, which can be smaller) is a mistake. You have to evacuate the flow of the big pump through that return line. Whatever you use, make sure the return from the surge tank to the fuel cell is at least as big as the return from the fuel rail to the surge tank. I personally put three fittings on the top of the tank (fuel in from small pump, return in from rail, return out to cell) and one near the bottom (fuel out to big pump). The return to the cell/tank must be at the top. The feed to the main pump must be near the bottom, but I would not stick it on the very bottom.
  10. Interesting, but you're adding quite a bit to runner length; which tweaks the manifold more for low end flow.
  11. I would not have dared to rain on the OP's parade, but now that he seems to be out of steam and this is technical (not classifieds)... The rear drain (or vent in my opinion) is best done with a fitting made to adapt from pipe-thread to AN. I was specifically peeking around the oil drain galleys on my S2 RB25 when I had it apart to clean everything up. The 'freeze plug' sits at least 1/4"+ off the bottom of the oil galley. If you actually wanna drain oil from it, it's best off to drill and tap a hole so it sits squarely on the bottom of the oil galley. Like I said, however, with the head being slanted and the plug hole being above the bottom anyways, the chance of draining a substantial amount of oil with it is pretty low, IMHO; particularly if you aren't pulling ridiculous forward G's. Just install the head with the plug removed and visualize how high the oil level would have to be to cause it to actually drain oil; even with the forward g-force scenario. If you look at the front of the motor, the head is slanted to the drivers side and the oil drains are on the drivers side. Likewise, the engine rotates clockwise, so the rotating assembly is going to make the air in the crankcase and oil drain galleys try to rotate clockwise as well. In other words, downward on the drivers side and upwards on the passengers side. At high rpm with the engine spinning so furiously (and with small room to spare in the crankcase) it is probably quite difficult for the air to rush up to the head to displace the large volume of oil constantly trying to drain out by passing the oil going the other way on the driver's side. With that in mind, it makes sense that the RB needs a big air-exchange path on the passenger side of the engine to help displace the oil that is trying to drain out of the head on the driver's side. As such, I still think you could drill and tap a hole anywhere on the passenger side and run it down to the sump; ideally above the windage tray. If you wanna TIG a bung onto the freeze plug, I am sure summit racing has them. I don't know an equivalent year/make/model of freeze plug that would work, however.
  12. Hello,

    It's just an ebay cooler, but it has a core that is 4" x 12" x 24" with a 31" OAL. It's a tight fight for the silicone elbows coming off the end tanks.

  13. hi bro

    i have seen your 1977z and i am wondering what is the overall size of your intercooler ??

    thanks

  14. I am in central Ohio. I have a late 280Z (IIRC) 5 speed. I can go as far as the borders of Ohio. I am looking for $175 for mine. I also have a factory fly wheel and ACT clutch that is working perfect that I would sell for $50 at the same time. donovan_myers@hotmail.com
  15. My personal experience and observation of others is that they do not sell cast manifolds. Only polished. If you order cast, they will send you polished. If you complain, they will say "our mistake" and offer a refund. That is, if you bother to ship it back and lose money on it. My theory is that they cannot cast a part well enough to leave it 'as cast' so they polish them to remove most of the blemishes. If you buy one, there will be a few flaws, but typically nothing your average HZ'er cannot handle.
  16. I have your solution. Mine did the same thing. Permatex makes a special type of bonding agent for this situation. Here is a link to my thread that explains it better. I tested mine a day or so after I did it. I grabbed it and tried to twist about as hard as I could and it did not move. You will need a torch to heat it up to get it off later. http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb-parts-f-s/130859-ebay-rb25det-intake-manifold-causing-problems-coolant-pipe-doesnt-fit.html
  17. Beware that some importers will give you a 25 with the weaker RB20 trans. BTW, the Datsuns have a mechanical speedo; whereas the RB's use an electric speedo.
  18. OP asked about SR20 versus RB26. SR20 is cheaper to modify, lighter, easier to find a tuner, cheaper to buy, cheap parts in abundance in USA, etc. RB has better potential, cool factor, and that's about it. I paid less than 2000 for my RB25 swap, but that's irrelevant because the OP asked about RB26, not RB25. Honestly, I personally think that 2JZ's end up with rather short powerbands with big turbos. RB's can spin a little better. I've owned a 2JZ with 6 speed. The powertrain is pretty stinking stout. At really high levels, RB owners sporting an RB25 trans will possibly wish they had a Getrag 6 speed. A 2JZ with 6 speed is rather pricey, however. Some of it depends, of course, how far you might take the powertrain from stock and what you intend to do with the car.
  19. The problem is, the foundation of a good business starts with owners who are smart and flexible. If the owner is rather limited in skills, then they will possibly try to limit the employees. I am an owner of several businesses (I am second generation) and I have been brought up in the businesses to be a jack of all trades. Learn skills quickly, understand how to talk to your people (and listen), be flexible, do whatever is needed to get the job done. I have done everything from estimating projects that span 3~5 years and gross seven figures per year to plunging toilets and everything in between. While a good book of business, nice software, good equipment, nice facilities, etc. really help out, I would rather lose all of that than lose some of my people. I am ALWAYS looking for people that are smart/adaptive/flexible/hard working. To the OP, you need to find someone who understands a bit of the specific industry (welding in this case) and has an idea of how to estimate stuff. Basic formulae such as listed above would be intuitive to someone who has experience with estimating but only experience in another industry. Most of it is going to be part intuitive (same thing as "wild ass guess" factor about) unless you have past data to hone it down.
  20. To be more specific, the wastegate actuator is rated for that pressure; not the wastegate.
  21. Look at my project thread. I have pics of my Al dash. The height from the top of the steering shaft to the typical top of the dash is very small. As soon as I saw that example you linked, I knew it would not work. Honestly, a sheet of aluminum, a metal brake and electric sheet metal shears can get you a decent dash with some careful planning and cardboard manipulation to get your lengths and angles right. Just find some Alcantara or suede, etc. to bond to it or you will blind yourself silly. Make sure you angle the face of the dash towards your head. My dash stops just below the steering shaft. There are decent mounting points (at least on my 280) to fab a few aluminum brackets to mount it up. I have three facets of my dash. The top (which is about where the original dash was, right below the glass) which is sloped a few degrees downward towards me (looks better that perfectly flat), the face for the gauges (angled up towards me perhaps 8~12 degrees) and a 3" wide strip turned under at the bottom of the face. That third facet gives it a ton of strength. For the ends, I left tabs sticking out (about 1" of extra material sticking out) on each facet that I bent over to have a mounting flange for end caps to bolt or rivet on with. This also gives it a lot of strength.
  22. Well, back to a serious response... Read my project thread. I have an aluminum dash that I made. It weighs about two or three pounds. PM me if you have questions. I metal brake can allow you to do it easily.
  23. Well, I kinda went into hybernation with so much going on at work, but recently I went into hybridization. I made my own oil pan with trap door baffles and windage tray, got the RB in the car, ordered a Wolf V500 and I have been getting all the plumbing and whatnot done. I really need to drag out the camera and update my build thread. It's quite outdated.
  24. I bought a MAF from ebay (before I ended up buying a standalone) and it was labelled specficially as the RB25DET MAF. It was an E60; pink label IIRC.
  25. I just finished my oil pan with trap door four chamber baffling and OE style windage tray (I kept the little vector fins at the rear from the factory pan since those looked very important). As it sits drying after etching and painting it, I am planning my next step. I have a FReddy intake manifold that will need some work to make it, er, work. That being said, I have a set of six EVO VIII 565cc injectors with a great spray pattern that I would like to use. Therefore, I need a top feed fuel rail. Anyone have any comments on ebay fuel rails? GReddy rails are about $275 or so. As are circuit sports (IIRC). Is the GReddy knockoff rail a piece of junk, or does it work OK? Any OE top feed options that are reasonable? I know the R33 RB25 NEO rail is not a direct fit... TIA, Mark
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