WizardBlack

Sorry to hear that. I know it can be so aggravating when you are so excited to get rolling and then that sort of thing occurs. Getcha an innovate wideband.

Maybe so. I guess I should explicitly say out of date and not... Expired? It has been a while. Something was not right because it was an ugly wreck.

Honestly it's easier to just tune it rather than use an auto tune feature. Even a basic, fundamental understanding of tuning will put you ahead of auto tune algorithms. You already have enough capability to do it. Get a buddy to ride shotgun and hold the laptop up for you. You do your best to modulate throttle to nail the load row dead even and then both of you make mental notes about where to dial it up or down a bit. A little goes a long way once you get close. Obviously, set your tune a tad lean and let the closed loop dial it toward a richer (yet leaner than stoich) target.

Sorry I know this is old but I figured I'd leave it for reference. Blame it on a long day... TEC2 is very simple to tune. If your car already has decent startup and enrichment settings then any tuner with experience in the powerplant or a turbo tuner with some fuel/boost/timing goals should have no problem working it out. Just tell them the procedure for map change/save/load and they should be up and running. I never played with the L motor enough to know if it liked to be lean and retarded or rich and advanced or somewhere in the middle or I'd give you some ideas of what they'd need to know.

Keep in mind if your FPR line leaks you may blow your engine. If your waste gate line leaks you will blow your engine apart in short order. If your line to the ECU on a speed density setup leaks you may blow your engine. See a pattern? I usually use braided fuel line or silicone because its cheap insurance. Clamp or double wire tie all connections. You should not be able to pull the hose off the barb without physically leaning away from it while pulling. Make sure your booster has a check valve in the line.

That depends on which turbo you are using and how much boost you are running. I have successfully done it when I had an L. You should be able to dig up my images on the project section. If you run high enough boost or get a bigger turbo you will mostly avoid creep. With a heavily ported waste gate route in the turbine housing and an aftermarket waste gate actuator (like an HKS adjustable unit for an sr20) you can get creep down. The alternative is to fab an external gate in place or use an aftermarket manifold. I did an he3x1 style turbo with a heavily ported waste gate and would creep to 16 up high. If you have built it to run more than 16 then its not a problem. I also had a cam in it which reduces the creep. Be advised that an H1C can also be an option and despite what a previous poster stated, there are holsets that have a turbine mounted waste gate actuator so you may clock things.Buy a rebuild kit for your holset while you are at it. They are cheap. holsets have integral balancing so you dont need to worry about that. The turbine wheel and shaft are one unit and its balanced and the compressor wheel is balanced. basic hand tools and a torque wrench are all you need. holsets are not water cooled. Go for a 7 blade hx35.

I think your 700 column is too rich down lw and your transition from 3200 to 3700 is too sharp. Try tapering it out higher. Your load columns are not very even. I am not sure why you did that but going from 15.0 to 13.3 or so in ~700 rpm is gonna be obvious when driving.

Light load from idle to about 4k can handle stoich to 15.x. Above that I would taper it to 13.5 by 5500 and then levelled at 13.5 to redline. The x depends on what you are happy with and how much your closed loop fuel control wobbles. You say O2, I assume you mean wideband? You can't really do lean burn with a narrowband sensor.

Any updates?

How many pallets would it take up in a semi trailer? I am out east but I have an OEM auto manufacturing business and about 125,000 sq.ft. of production space.

Lookin' good! You gotta post some in car vids when you get it running.

Does anyone have a base map for an RB25DET S2 PnP Wolf V500? I snagged the base map from the Wolf website and it does not go past about 3500 rpm before going full retard and full rich. I don't need someone to tune for me but I would like an idea of the basic ignition timing curve for the RB engines. I used to tune for a living but I only actually worked on one or two Skylines and never a standalone. Likewise, looking through the published map sensor definitions on the basemap, the notes said things like 'RB26', '2.6L', '780cc injectors', etc.

I cannot say for sure on the details but I remember it was an Evo 4~6. One of that CN9A series that wasn't available in USA. It had a link ECU, anti lag and full carbon brakes which was my first experience driving with those. I didn't know it had them until I was mildly hot into a corner on a street test. The cage was out of date and he wasn't worried about it which raised my eyebrow. I remember he wanted to have me ride nav seat for pikes peak. I can't recall if that was the race he had his crash in or not.

I made a simple dash out of aluminum that weighs a mere 2 lbs and doesn't break the bank at all. I covered it with alcantara.

Just to add to this. I know a fellow that bought a retired rally race car. Don't know the series, but the cage was legit, but expired/old. I don't know if its just rally cars and there is eventually too much work hardening in the pipe, but I bet a poorly made cage would do the same thing the expired cage did to him. He got in a side impact and the cage broke apart and impaled his thigh all the way through. He lost 50 pounds by the time he was mostly rehabbed from the impalement. My Z has a cage but its OK install-wise but not great. As soon as I get the floor pans and such redone it is coming out and custom bracing only is going in. This is just for harnesses and frame rigidity but nothing near my head.

That's quite a thread necro. To add info, por15 is not really for painting over and it's not really for clean bare metal. Por works best on rusty metal for quick and dirty ways to essentially drop the hammer on rust issues. It builds on it, seals it and converts it. Ospho, metal clean, etc are all just essentially phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid gets busy with iron oxide (rust) and turns it into iron phosphate which is a stabilized (etched) metal that is ready for primer or sealer. Primer is a thinner version of sealer intended to just help with adhesion and let you paint over it with basecoat, etc. Sealer, conversely, is just a thicker primer intended to help build up thickness so you can fill in nasty scratches and dips/dents from your imperfect bondo job. You usually wetsand sealer to smoothe it out and you just scuff primer to go to the next step. Some paint lines sold today have the same exact product with different thinning and activating rates depending on whether you want primer or sealer, in other words. Bottom line: POR15, Rust Bullet and its ilk are HARD coatings intended for less appearance and more utilitarian solutions. Interior under carpet or bare on a race car, engine bays, underside, inner fenders, etc. Phosphoric acid is merely a first step towards a basecoat/clear coat process (ie., provide adhesion) and has zero long term capability by itself. Actually rust CAN show through phosphoric acid in 12 hours and through primer/sealer in a week (although sealer sometimes has more hardener in it and will hang on a bit longer). They are just links in the chain.

Yeah undercoating put all over is a lazy way to hide surface rust or worse and should be a warning sign. Keep in mind a bodyman is a pro at putting lipstick on a pig. Salvage is irrelevant, but a bodyman owner fixing a car AFTER he negotiates sale price is, um, unwise. There is not reason for someone living in PR of California should need to pay that much for that sort of risk.

Most of the engine sellers out there are based out of Canada; to sell to American customers for a reason. You can't do squat if you don't like it. Buyer beware when buying out of country. I bought an RB25DET from someone else that still had it palletized, etc. It was great; looked like about 40k miles or less. If you buy one directly "off the boat" be prepared to end up putting new internals in it potentially.

Sorry I missed this one. I know it's a bit old but it would help either you or someone else. The turbo should not affect it much at all. The turbo will always be pulling air unless you have no BPV (which is a problem in itself) or you are using a blowoff valve (also a problem). Pullthrough MAF and BOV doesn't mix. If MAF is 6~8 inches from a turbo inlet it should be fine. For idle, you should have more air and timing to warm up (and shoot for slowly sliding from 11.5:1 to 13.5:1 while the O2 sensor is warming up and you are open loop or it's closed loop but not close enough to warm coolant temp yet). Once warm, timing should back down to circa 10~15 degrees depending on the bore diameter of the engine (more bore, more timing). If timing falls below that consistently, back off your air (idle circuit, IAC, stepper motor, whatever). Air fuel ratio should be the left alone to hit the A/F target. In other words, you get rough idle rpm target with the air control (standalones should have closed loop idle timing control OFF to get it tuned). Next you use timing for fine idle control (~10 degrees authority progressively fed in until it's ~500 rpm off target with 100~200 rpm deadband at target should get you close). Lastly you let the A/F target simply shoot for a fixed ratio (14.7:1 most of the time). You don't use fuel to control idle. You use air (coarse adjustment) so that the timing (fine adjustment) averages out to where it should be. A stock ECU (flashed or modded or whatever) will have both air and timing adjustment. By this I mean "Idle RPM Error rpm vs. Idle Air Position Correction %" and "Idle RPM Error rpm vs. Timing degrees" or something of that nature. Many standalones either don't have timing adjustment or it isn't implemented by the tuner, but a stock ECU is doing both most of the time. In your case, it sounds like the target RPM is lower than you think or the Idle Air Circuit (of whatever type) is not tuned right or working right. It sounds to me like it won't pull air closed enough (ie., remove air) since the ECU is pulling timing to get RPM's down and it's lean because the IAC is stuck open too far (past the authority of the closed loop fuel control). All in all, take your IAC apart and see if it's clogged with soot and clean it. Otherwise, if it's an RB I think you have some rubber hoses going to/from it that you can pinch down a bit with vise grips to slowly see if it helps it stabilize. IIRC the RB also has a pop open additional air circuit for cold start that could be non-working or stuck open. Or you have a manifold leak.

I was AEM certified years ago. AEM works very well. All it is inside the box (at least series 1) is a universal standalone (built with the help of Link IIRC) with edge pins to connect to an adapter board for the specific car. I especially liked the ability to control boost target with the throttle. I built a few road race type cars with that in mind to try to linearize a "slightly bigger than stock" turbo for mid corner control. They also have very good idle control and closed loop fuel, boost, etc control. Even though AEM guys are in Kalifornia and can't make a base map with cold weather capability for crap, the boxes have plenty of features to get it sorted. It makes me chuckle; I was once on a trip to Cali for a customer who was racing in a minor event on Streets of Willow. Magazines would be there and everyone from the Cali shops (which is all who ever come to those events covered by the Cali based magazines) came early to put all their shop stickers on the cars before going out. A Sparco Evo was trailered there covered in "S" vinyl and fiberglass, etc. It was ~40's *F and they could NOT get it to start. When they finally did I thought it was going to bang the rev limiter. I have tuned EVO's, WRX's, STI's, etc. on an AEM box lots of time. I can't complain about them whatsoever. I don't care for their service somewhat, but the box does what it's supposed to. Innovate is very good for widebands as well. I have not messed with AEM since when Series II (IIRC) had been out for just a little while. They are a solid setup and will easily handle boost control duties with just a cheapy solenoid. You can sell whatever else you have for boost control; the box will handle it directly and it is recommended to do it that way. MOTEC is better IMHO, but it's close and depends on the application. I have built MS2 boxes and it will work just fine. If you are newer to the game, I'd go for a prebuilt MS2 setup if they have the RB sensors worked out.

May I add my own .02? If you are running SOHC and don't care about "nth degree" power, idle, emissions or low load drivability, I would never consider bothering with sequential. Something like the L-series, I would not worry about sequential unless you have big bucks to make a really mean sounding L beast. Can you squeeze more out? Maybe a bit, but really, you should spend the cash on getting good injectors that have a shorter and more consistent dead-time and a better spray pattern. That will help tremendously with all of those same things. I have successfully gotten 1200 cc injectors squirting into 0.5L cyclinders to idle tamely at stoich and I have seen injectors almost stock size that squirt like a water hose pattern and have long deadtimes not work worth a crap. Get good injectors as a prerequisite to spending money on a sequential setup. Factory turbo injectors from a modern car are great sources for them. Evo 8~9 has 550 cc/min top feed injectors with a good spray pattern. These can be had cheap cheap cheap. STi injectors are capable of being driven to 100% duty cycle without fluttering or messing up A/F ratios.

I would do a 4 stage at the AC location with a Ross pulley and a custom bracket. One for pump, two for sump and one for the head front and back.

That honeycomb is too coarse to really do it. And not long enough. IIRC even my RB25 MAF has a honeycomb in it. I could be wrong. I have seen a lot of Subaru and MItsu MAFs over the years too. Each cell on a stock honeycomb is usually about 1/4" to 1/8" cells IIRC and more like 1.5"+ in depth.. IMHO is you have soldering capability you'd be better off building a Meagsquirt. It is not the best in tuning control but it has enough to get the job done. Better than an aging ECU that could lose a capacitor or end up dying from the mods and flashes only to end up with a heavily changed stock ECU.

You have bends right before the MAFs; particularly that one. It will not read as much air as it should and therefore run lean in that condition. Be advised that the higher the air velocity the more the air profile will be wrong for the MAF because the air can't 'make the turn' and restabilize as fast as slow, lazy air. In other words, you will see a very bad bend cause issues at most operating conditions, but a bend that is 'almost Ok' will only show up at high load (like you are seeing).Honeycomb straighteners can help but won't solve every issue. Lots of factory cars use them or even have them built into the MAF. Your upper MAF has a 'bend' right AT the MAF from poor amount of space to fit it in. Not good. The lower one has a bend a bit upstream that may be a problem. One big issue is they don't match. IMHO the best solution is to ditch all the MAF stuff and run speed density to resolve the issues. A MAP based system is better for a heavily modded car and particularly one that changes with tweaks all the time. On a turbo car, your timing is related to engine speed and air density. Your air:fuel target is also variable based on engine speed and air density. Therefore a speed density setup is a more direct solution. As long as you don't buy a super simple ECU you will have plenty of closed loop control to make it run clean.

Not ideal, but I guess it depends. Some cars have different factory setups and therefore the stock ecu is built differently. The best thing you can do is replicate the length, bends and placement of the stock setup.