WizardBlack

Puhleaze.... Good luck with your chroming. I'm sure it'll turn out great.

I guess if we feel like big boosted cubes we just grab an LS2/T56 or somesuch and build it up with turbos. Xenophilia is expensive.

Ditto. Me and an S13/14 buddy are both looking at the VH45DE swap and may wanna take a peek.

Hey, we know how it goes. I've built about 8 cars to varying degrees just in the last 8 years, so I feel ya. They're right, though. Just get a ride in a nasty turbo car and you'll be hot to finish it. I've learned to do cars in stages so I can drive it every so often, but some steps can't be reduced beyond a certain length of time. There's always that urge to see what else is out there, though.

You will probably need to fab your own intake pipe to connect the three items: Air filter, BOV outlet and Turbo Inlet. Here is one for a DSM. You can see the mass air flow meter at the left, the bov pipe and then the compressor hookup on the right: http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=2831 Here is probably one of the best OEM BOV's other than exotics: http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=366&cat=7&page=1 Just have a two bolt flange welded to your intercooler piping that matches it. You can also buy them. It's a 1G DSM BOV. Any BOV will make some noise to a degree, but this one (and the GReddy Type-R and old style Type-S) are not intentionally designed to be noisy.

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/550newchassis.gif Anyone seen this? Here's the model for the Datsun: http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/942705K1/10002/-1# It has 4-link and all that. Not to say it's anywhere close to your setup, but just curious if anyone's seen it, tried it, etc.

Holy jeebus.

I never got a response when I emailed him about gold RB's a long time ago. All told, he just ordered whatever he felt like, anyways (obviously). Best of luck for a better result for you guys...

Oh yeah, I forgot about that stuff. It has a light green and white label. Great stuff.

I have a ballast pack in the classifieds. Take a peek. I have pic to determine if it's the right one for ya.

Mine did the same thing. The fusible links were smoking; they got so hot. I found that the main power and ground wires are bundled together and running along the frame rail below those fusible links. Over the years they had rubbed against each other and against the frame rail until they were starting to contact. After all that, a chunk of current was running directly from power to the ground wire or to the frame rail. I'd suggest doing the upgrade (a la the atlanticz.ca site) before it catches on fire.

The booster basically bolts on. The master cylinder has to be bench bled. Make sure to compare the new booster to the old one and adjust the pin so it protrudes from the mounting face the same amount. It's best to use some digital vernier calipers or something that can getcha pretty darn close. Don't skip that step or you will have substantial issues if it's off. Like PP said, get a Haynes/Chilton manual.

Clay works because it can grab the (extremely thin) "side" of the dot of paint. I doubt you'll be successful in grabbing the paint dots (overspray) on something as rough as plastic versus a sheet of glass or paint. Not to mention the paint surely "bit into" the plastic (bonded to it). You may be left with using interior trim paint to redo the plastic trim. LUK.

Nice. I'm in the process of making mine. I went with an 8" tall faceplate that is canted back about 18" so the gauges point up towards my head, etc. I removed the steel framework which is quite heavy (in comparison). I used aluminum sheet with the flat deck on top, the 8" face (as I said) and 2" curl underneath for rigidity. This makes it like a backwards "squared" C-shape from the side. I also built it with 1" wide strips on the side to bend in for cap plates to rivet to on the end. I also made a cutout about 2" wide for the steering column. It's light and rigid enough to hold it on one end with one hand and swing it about, etc even before the endcaps are on. Pics to come I guess. Super Aluminum dash thread!

+1

Moar piktures....

My Z has it's butt shaved clean. I will post pics. They didn't do it right and it's been welded too much, etc. I am gonna get a new rear piece to blank it out. I will try to grab some pics. My tails are blacked like Tony's.

Oh, I see. My car has a cage in it (dunno whose it is), but I am 6'0" and use a boatload of leg room. Even with a moderately curved harness bar I still have it shoved up against it. I also like the idea of squeezing every last bit of space for myself. How do you guys get the welds above your head at the back edge of the glass without cutting a hole in the roof (like I've seen some do)? Or, do you not get it fully welded? Weld it somehow before you install it? EDIT: On second thought, I may actually have a Jegs kit although it's got a few "accessory" bars done slightly different. The main hoop curves in from the bottom of the quarter glass to the floor which interferes with sliding my seat back farther. I am gonna be redoing frame rails and floorpans (to start with) this winter so I'll probably fab it myself, too. You are right. If the main hoop isn't as tight as it can be and the halo no longer matches a custom main hoop then you aren't left with any bent pieces... May as well do it yourself. Excellent point.

Why bend it yourself? I am sure you will run into lots of issues trying to get the bends just right, etc. What is wrong with the Jeg's kit? Can't you simply buy a Pipe Notcher ($200; made in USA) and get it to fit Right? I mean, they say it requires custom trimming...

Can anyone comment on steering stiffness or feel with such a fat wheel? I can't imagine anyone trying to use the original rubber steering column isolator to much success with this kinda setup. I have poly but I think I may go with aluminum.

Oh, BTW, did you use the Jeg's 12 point cage with add-on frame rails, 4-link pickup and new front subframe package or custom build it?

Heh... sweet. Thank you!

LOL, there aren't quite as many S30's running around nowadays. People will go quite a good distance to find a good body or car.

Did you get up under it? If it's visible from standing 10' away, then it may very well have holes in the floopans/firewall or under the battery tray, etc. Good luck, my friend.

Update: I just spoke to Kim and bought the last set of the RB gunmetal wheels with polished lip. If I understand him correctly, only flat black (with no polished lip) is left of all the RB wheels.