WizardBlack

I can't comment on normally aspirated stuff but I've always heard from machine shops that "B" is better for turbo. Every car I've worked on (turbo or N/A) has a step from the factory (never dis-assembled Ferrari, Porsche, etc. though). I think it's more to make SURE that during the normal production variations, the reverse step isn't experienced (step DOWN in diameter, call it C). In that case, only sometimes getting B is better than sometimes getting C.

Usually when a bolt really starts to fail, you will feel the torque it takes to turn the bolt get slightly softer and then softer, and... You get a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomache. You can, of course, have only slightly tweaked it such that it will eventually fail and you won't know it until later. Bottom line is nobody can tell you 100%. My "edjumucated" guess is the extra 20* torque angle may well be within the safety range of the bolts. If you want 100% then you really aught to remove them and install new ones. I'd imagine you have fluids back in it now...

No worries. Yeah, I have them left-to-right properly. I think what happened is removing the stock front calipers to swap to Toyota calipers resulted in air getting up into the master cylinder. I guess it's my own mistake for not thinking of that. Likewise, with that pressure regulating thing (with the switch on it), it probably passes air between the front and rear circuits. I already started bleeding air from the MC and it was loaded. :-/ I'll letcha know if it doesn't fix the issue.

Hmm, it'll be tough; particularly at the back of the car. You may be able to disconnect at the front and rear and simply swing them over to the side. Pushing them over is not really going to work, but then again, it's all in how close to fuel lines you feel comfortable welding.

Yeah, I am sure I have the correct caliper. If you get the wrong one, it won't fit with the solid rotor. You also clearly have a massive rotor gap. I dunno if I explained it very well, but the master cylinder and all that was changed a while back. I bench bled it for a solid 10 minutes. Note also, that I can get fluid out coming out of the fronts when bleeding and they move when you press the pedal; just not very much. Where is the stock prop valve if I can remove it? I have no original electronics in the car so I don't need the little switch thing just below the MC either if it can be removed as well, etc.

Hello, I have an issue and just want to confirm what the problem is. Previous Changes: Starting with my "new" '77 280Z, I installed stainless braided lines. Still not happy, I install a new booster and new 7/8" master cylinder along with rotors and pads for the front. Now the fronts definitely lock hard but the rears aren't doing much. After doing all the improvements, I notice fluid leaking from one of the rear drums (must be a busted cylinder). I leave it be since I don't drive it. Current Changes: While down for turbo install and megasquirt, I tear into the rear brakes to find both cylinders blown and the rear drums soaked in fluid. I spring for the rear caliper conversion brackets and buy 240SX rear calipers, pads and rotors from a parts store (Autozone loaded calipers and the 300zx rotors as per the sticky thread). While I am there, I also get the non-vented toyota 4x4 front calipers and pads. The front rotors are new so I leave 'em be. (maybe 5 miles on them) To top things off, I get a set of speed bleeders to make life easier. After installing all this, here is how my setup looks: "new/rebuilt" Toyota calipers with new pads and rotors "new/rebuilt" 240SX calipers with new pads and rotors Speed Bleeders stainless braided lines "new/rebuilt" 7/8" master cylinder and new booster everything else is left as is When trying to bleed, they all seem to need the bleed fitting pretty loose to get them going then they start to bleed ok with it barely cracked. The rears bled pretty much normally and grab when you press the brake pedal. The fronts just seem to "ooze" a little brake fluid out when you press the pedal. After bleeding both fronts this way, when someone presses on the brake pedal, the front pads move in towards the rotors but never get there. Likewise, when you let off the pedal, the springs in the caliper pull the pads back out to reset. I understand I have a 7/8" master cylinder but should they not at least grab the rotors? They only close about half the gap between the front pads and the rotor. I'm pretty sure the MC and booster are fine since I had them working with essentially new stock front brakes and no rear brakes. Is there a factory prop valve somewhere I need to remove? I have a wilwood adjustable prop valve that I haven't installed yet. (One thing at a time, etc.) Perhaps the combination of no proportioning (or stock) valve and smaller MC?

Oh my... SS Autochrome.... Good luck with fitment and cracks. I guess since you have to make your own parts to fit around this piece fitment aught not to be bad. LOL. Be sure to budget having the flanges machined flat at a machine shop.

I'm saying you'd probably feel it.

Most trannies will leak if they don't have the propshaft pushed into them or if they aren't tipped forward quite a bit. Some tranny shops will fill difficult trannies with fluid on the bench with a spare propshaft yoke stuck in it and swap it out quickly for the propshaft once it's installed.

there are much better body lines to consider copying than a hyundai for the more curved leading line of the windshield into the roof. How about a G35/G37, etc.?

You won't be able to feel it if you only overtorqued by a small amount or got into the yield range by a small amount but if they yielded by a decent amount you would have felt it.

I have a '77 dizzy I can sell if someone needs one. I went Megasquirt/EDIS, etc.

Check your primary cables around/below the battery and fusible links. These wires will rub with vibration and eventually wear through the shielding and touch each other or the frame rail. You could be getting some crossover between them which could do funky things. The battery 12v is touching to the ground wire and then the alternator is trying to pull it up 12v from there resulting in 12v black wire and 24v red wire maybe. ??? Check 'em out, for sure.

Disconnect the alternator and start the car and see what voltage you get.

If you are running 10.5 AFR during WOT in lower revs and it drops even half a point (10.0:1) then you are probably choking your motor with fuel. You are already on the border of doing it now. Lean it out some and see if that isn't why it won't get into the next load cell. Back off the timing a tad if you are worried about knock, but you should be able to hit 11.5:1 at WOT on pump gas.

Ahh, that's sneaky. Thanks for the info.

QFT. Rust is like cancer. You can't "hide" it.

No gasket as there are no air seals. It's just a mechanical connection. Be aware that there is a reaction disk that can fall off as well if you aren't careful. Mine didn't, however. If you change size it will obviously affect the "boosting effect" but it should still work as long as the mechanical connection is properly adjusted.

You'll need to search. There are several threads with images showing completely different methods, etc. One thing I think you will find, however, is that few (if any) think they saved weight. Several different install methods used 1"x1" square tube (IIRC). You'll haveta see what wall thickness they used, I guess. They aren't really designed to protect in a crash, though.

voltage regulator?

Here's what ya need: http://www.geocities.com/bry593/coilover/coilover.htm

Mine aren't that bad, but I already decided to bite the bullet and just do custom new rails and new flat floorpans. Stronger, flatter, and cheaper.

You need something that will bond straight to bare metal. IIRC, typical primer/sealers are NOT that. It's usually a translucent material that you wash on and rinse off (iron phosphate or zinc phosphate). You may simply want to go with rust bullet for superior rust prevention, but if you want something like that image, you'll need the translucent etching stuff and then clearcoat. Clearcoat won't bond directly to bare metal. Nor will basecoat. WD40 and scotch brite is what modern day "practitioners" of medieval european martial arts use to keep their "period correct" armor from rusting. On the topic of stripping, if you wanna use the gel/liquid stripping stuff, you should start by running a DA over all the surface real quickly. Do this dry like you normally would. You are just doing this to accelerate the stripping process; it gives the stripping material something to bite in to. After that, put the stripping gel/liquid over a single panel (or half a large one like the hood). Don't be stingy, either. Get it on good and thick. Once you get it all over the panel, cover it with a sheet of plastic to keep air out. Let it sit for 15 minutes and then check it out. If it all scrapes off with a dull chisel, go ahead and get it all off with the chisel or wipe it off with heavy duty towels. If not, get off what you can and use a stiff metal brush (by hand) to scrub on it in the stubborn areas, re-cover the incomplete areas with more stripper and recover with plastic. Wait another 15 minutes, etc. This will tear up paint, primer, powdercoat, e-coat, etc. pretty quickly. Digging into it with a DA and covering with plastic is key.

Please do; very interested in this...

You really should try to PRIME an engine if it has sat for that long. Change the brake fluid as well, IMHO. Basically, anything liquid should probably be changed. Grease anything you can that has a fitting.