WizardBlack

That is awesome! Just what I was looking for. I appreciate you posting the link. I am going to have to get into NICO some more. I was thinking of having a machine shop make half a dozen sets of engine mounts or something once I get a decent location if anyone else was interested. Sorry to hear about your mate. I know that takes the wind out of your sails to say the least.

Have you had all the piping leak tested? Something doesn't sound right.

I think he's a tad confused if he thinks the 1/4" hosebarb attachment on a compressor housing is to vent air to the turbo from a BOV. You need about 1.5" or more to vent it to a compressor intake pipe. You don't pipe it directly to the compressor housing (usually). Like I said, look at a GReddy Type-R or another that actually has a hosebeaded outlet that you can slip a hose onto. It isn't "air horn" style. If you want something that is straight up functional, get a TiAL. If you need a recirculating one, buy a Mitsubishi DSM BOV.

Wow, can we see a pic from the back end?

That seems a very strange answer from an engineer. Hot oil is thinner and will drain out better. No one says you have a time limit on how long you keep the oil plug drained. I always drain hot and let it sit for a short while while I inspect the engine, check other fluids, scheme about the next thing to do to the car, etc. I also think that people don't pay enough attention to the angle the car is sitting at compared to the bottom of the oilpain, etc. Some cars can easily leave a substantial puddle in the pan just because it doesn't drain all the way. I never let a car run to 7 or 10k miles. That's ridiculous. Sure, some newer engines can supposedly go 10k or 15k between changes, but that'll just get you past the warranty with minimal cost/hassle of oil changes. What other motivation would you expect a car manufacturer to have? A friend of mine is a Beemer tech. They supposedly go 10 or 15k between changes and the computer tells you when to change oil. However, the cars that come in like clockwork every 10 or 15 look like black chocolate. I change at 3k or 4k at max.

That's up to you, obviously. I look at a few things: 1. You ordered Ultras. 2. The manufacturer admits that Ultras are better. My conclusion is thus: 1. Ultras must be higher performance 2. Ultras must cost more and that's what you paid for.

LOL probably every average joe (for this site, anyways) thinks the same thing the first time they look at it. The smacktards you took it to should have employed more than 3 brain cells to figure that out before giving them back to you, however.

Well, isn't that the last however many numeric digits on the VIN number?

I think it's probably a pretty good assumption that it's a cam for normal aspiration. It probably won't like turbo.

Looks good. I think one thing you could do is find a way to set the block-off back just a half inch or so rather than fully flush. This will give you the visual line of the original "mouth" of the opening but still get 95% of the aerodynamic improvement.

Would you mind linking his username or website, etc.? I looked at the drip rails again and they don't appear to be just a 2" wide strip of steel tack welded like I thought (and you obviously corrected with your post). I would love to see a site with some close-ups of the drip rail removed or a recommended technique, etc. Do you just shave the protruding portion and then grind them flush at the corner, etc.?

Agreed. Can you comment on Russ' A-Pillar pieces on the exterior?

If your wastegate was disconnected from the "vacuum" lines, you'd hit a LOT of boost; pretty much the maximum the turbo could put out. I assume you have a boost gauge?

You know, every time I've been to HPDE's, the instructors always chuckled when a Viper was in one of the classes. They just about always expect a few off-road excursions from them; no matter which class they are in.

A nissan shop in USA would be wise (and enterprising) to connect with one in AUS to arrange for a dozen RB30's to be brought over on a pallet, etc.

Power steering?! Air conditioning? Pssht... My datsun doesn't even have interior, wipers, audio, etc. There's a perfectly good air conditioning system actuated by the cranking handle on the inside of each door. I'm aware of all the various ways to route it, but you've personally seen a VH45 in an S30 and you can fit the piping where the A/C and P/S pumps are? Three inch minimum, of course.

If you want high mileage, you need closed loop lean operation. Even gasoline can withstand 16.0:1; particularly on a low compression engine. I've set cars up to that ratio in cruise and it definitely helped, but I don't know if you are going to get an old skool engine that makes 500 whp to average 30 mpg. Getting injectors with a good spray pattern is also very useful.

Dude.... you just need to have a pro tune it. It sounds cobbled together and you have NO gauges or feedback. If you gotta drive it before you get MS2/EDIS, have a professional shop tune it with a wideband and have them listen for detonation, read plugs, etc. There are plenty of maps in the megasquirt forums to use as a reference of ballpark timing. Turbo tuning is a careful science; not throw this on, weld that, etc. Detonation can damage your motor before you can even hear it. All it takes is the wrong tune and a few tenths of a second to damage your motor.

Have you looked at the EFI bible and the other stuff on atlanticz.ca? You should be able to test it for sure. I'd expect you to get no fuel if your AFM is washed out but you aught to get spark unless you have multiple issues. Check the dizzy, etc.?

Yeah, traditional is fine with me. Just wasn't sure if there was enough room between the block and the frame rails and strut towers on each side for the exhaust manifolds to run forward and the downpipes to run back rearward. If that's the case; it's all good.

I'm gonna bump this. If anyone is wondering, with those turbos sitting so low, he is using a sump pump (bolted to the front of the trans at the bottom) to siphon the oil draining out of the turbos and push it up into the oilpan. Otherwise, the oil would stack up and push out through the turbo seals really quick. I'm not a big fan of that (cost, complexity), but I am still trying to find an alterntive for the S30 chassis with a VH45. Anyone installed a VH45 in the S30 that can comment on locating turbos forward, etc. I'd really like to avoid low-hanging turbs like that.

They already got it right the first time around. No need to mess with it. I've seen just about everything else chaged. Framerails, tube front end, new suspension design front and rear, different engines, different drivetrain, etc. Never seen anyone even suggest changing the front end body lines. HERESY!

I was just working on my car and looked at the fitting. Not sure what size it is but it's coarse like a pipe thread but quite a bit bigger than 1/8" NPT. Likewise, it's straight threads (not tapered like pipe thread) and uses a copper washer.

Don't think that's true; if I understand what you're trying to say. Check here and expand out to the root website for a boatload more info. I recommend you start a new section in your browser and organize all the places you find info with bookmarks. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Just so you new guys understand, this website doesn't like to play 20 games with the 20 most answered questions, etc. They expect ya to search up and learn a bunch more in the process. Particularly since this is the turbo section. Anyways, about the question of trim and A/R: Trim: Gives you a designation of the nature of the wheel. You will have a trim number for both the turbine and compressor wheels. Generally this is what you tinker with a lot on the compressor side although there may be a few size options on the turbine wheel as well. A/R: This number refers to the (essentially) constant ratio of the cross sectional area inside a slice of the turbine divided by the radius to the centerline of that slice. The larger the number, the tighter the "coil" of the turbine housing and the faster it will spool. The lower the number: the slower the turbine housing uncoils and the more friendly the turbine is to high flow (top-end). (think of it like large radius bends in piping versus tight bends). Generally this is what you tinker with a lot on the turbine side. On the older Garret turbos, you will usually see T3/T4, etc. The first number (T3) refers to the size class of the turbine. The T4 refers to the size class of the cold side. When you see T04E, the E refers to the compressor cover's opening size. The E is a 3" inlet whereas the S is a 4" inlet. Generally you can successfully vary the turbine A/R (ie., the turbine housing) along a couple choices and yield a few options with varying powerband characteristics for a particular engine and still be fairly effective for that car. In other words, assuming you have a good turbo configured for quick spool that has all the bits sized right to work together (and with the engine), you can change up the turbine housing to the next size down in A/R and have good mid/top end(-ish) turbo that is still working together pretty well. This makes for a cheap and easy way to "change your mind" or reconfigure the turbo. On the other hand, the compressor and turbine wheels are built as part of the CHRA (center housing rotating assembly) and changing a wheel requires the CHRA to be rebalanced (much like changing to different pistons on a rotating assembly).