WizardBlack

It really doesn't matter. Loctite acts like a kind of a glue to give a bit of a vibration elasticity to the torque setting. It is especially important when the torque setting doesn't cause much elastic yielding on the bolt or other piece.

Hey, well forged internals should let you run the boost. The head can be taken care of. There are at least two guys on here that I'd trust for a full-out head like that. The parts and knowledge is there. There just aren't that many Z's out there that have the full out 10~20k build like the upper 0.01% of Hondas that they are being compared to by guys in this thread (out of frustration). To be honest, it's too dang easy for many guys who simply want the power and don't care how they get it.... Swap a different and more well-developed powerplant in. That is probably partially why there aren't that many nasty nasty L's running around (yes I put it in twice). I have been in a friend's fully set up >700whp Honda. It is wicked what is done to it, but if you breathe on the throttle it pegs over 10krpm and is simply a tire burner even with the right suspension stuff and slicks. It's torque is probably around 65% of power, though, too. An L motor ain't gonna be like that.

Looks almost precisely like many other resistor boxes I've seen. Another poster pointed out that most japanese low impedance 6-cylinder cars will have precisely what you need. Heck, you could probably use a V8 box if you saw one somewhere and use it as well.

Hmm, I don't know everything you have on your car, but I wouldn't say you've exhausted everything to compare to those cars unless you have done the following (just like your examples): 1. custom turbo cam 2. extensively researched fully ported head with oversized valves and upgraded springs, retainers, etc. 3. 30+ psi on C16 4. custom tubular exhaust manifold and big intake manifold 5. rev the snot out of it with a turbo big enough to truly flow that I'm not trying to come down on you, but that is exactly what a 600+whp honda/neon has in it. An L28 with custom manifolds, custom turbo cam, built motor (rods, pistons, etc.), fully ported head and oversized valves with upgraded springs and a big turbo should get you quite a bit more than 350~400, no? Aside from which, your torque probably isn't that far off the mark versus those cars and with lesser octane to boot.

Still doesn't allow for a trio of ignition coil pairs without tinkering. I will just get a typical 3x2 coil and move on for now. I haven't had the car running with it yet.

Can EDIS drive these directly? Run in pairs of course... EDIT: NVM, I found it. The LSx coils are internally ignited whereas the EDIS controls this itself with more variation. The end result is requiring 'dumb' coils that don't have an ignitor built in. A lot of dodge V6's from the 90's evidently have a convenient coil pack.

I'd agree about the eManage versus standalone, but since the limiting factor is the pistons, or namely the piston rings, a lot of it boils down to keeping it from detonating. If you can do that, you can get more out of it before the power breaks the ringlands. That's the reason for the engine management comments and whatnot. Keep the A/F safe and/or run some octane booster (as in, a gallon of race fuel per tank or torco additives, etc.; not the useless garbage at auto parts stores) to try to suppress detonation until you get a longer term solution. I'd recommend a clean standalone like a megasquirt and EDIS, etc.

LOL, that one is a kinda touchy subject. It's been discussed before multiple times. OS Giken head. BTW, do you listen to RadioU? They have a new station in your town.

Don't forget to add a wideband to your list.

Hey, how can he ask for advice as to what to do about his tuning issue when it's clearly a heatsoak/location thing that he forbade us talk about the solution to?

Hmm, have you tried the skylinesaustralia.com? I have seen auto NEO's modded on there. I am sure they'd know one way or another.

Just grab a standard one IMHO. I have heard ppl say to avoid the megasquirt boost control system for now. I bought an HKS adjustable wastegate for mine (for an SR20).

Going super slick on the intake side after the injectors causes drivability issues since the fuel doesn't wet the walls the same as a standard head. Slick on the exhaust doesn't net a whole lot of benefit, but you can go a tad smoother just to avoid too much exhaust scale. I think ventilation is fine as long as you find all the vents and make sure there are none that are routed into the intake plumbing (with a check valve). They could pull air from atmosphere through the catch can, through the valve cover and then into the line still routed to the intake piping somewhere. That'd be unmetered air.

Ah, maybe I missed something. The title says RB25DET versus RB25DE_ NEO. Not RB25DET NEO. Perhaps it was just a mis-type.

Slap a turbo and standalone on it and see if it pops.

I can't help ya except to perhaps suggest rust adhesion?

drawn over mandrel (first pic) is easy to get. crush bent is easy to get. mandrel bent under 2~2.5" is attainable (what tony posted). Getting mandrel benders for 3"+ exhaust isn't so easy/cheap.

Not saying the OP is rude or dumb or a moocher, but I humbly protest the facts about a business owner having that responsibility. They can easily determine they don't wish to do business with you just as the reverse is true. I think this is very important for the customer and business to determine up front to avoid unpleasantness further down the road. I have had customers in the past that are simply a PITA and will never be happy. Not unless it's bombproof, makes twice as much power on half as much gas and was free to boot. Once you have been in business for a while you start to develop a radar for those ppl and do what you can to AVOID selling them any part or service. My guess is the $2400 quote was an indication that the OP had somehow set off the shop's alert and they were trying to price themselves out of the job.

I used to own a speed shop and I can say that I understand the issues that all the other shop owners are bringing up. I try to be helpful and answer a lot of technical questions. At the end of the day, if someone says "why aren't you as cheap as my buddy" just burns you up. Do you really think your buddy will pay parts and labour if something happens? Really? The other kicker is when you deal with one of the 30 minute technical teaching calls only to find out that the part you helped him select is 5~10% cheaper on ebay so they buy it there. If you want the serious, golden relationship with your shop; stick with the ppl that take the time and money to teach you everything and help you learn. By window shoping their service against a less informed, less experienced or less thorough alternative you indirectly insult the value of their services. It would be like price comparing a 321SS mandrel bent race exhaust with dyno testing from a speed shop against a 'parts bin special' crush bent mild steel clamped-together exhaust from your local Meineke or equivalent.

The thing is, it could be a smaller engine; 2.4L or 2.6L. He has the ports taped up so you can't even determine a little bit about the head by exhaust port shape.

Heh???? Google T3 rebuild kits and they usually have 'destructions' on how to rebuild it. There usually is a very large but thin o-ring that goes between the compressor backing plate and the compressor housing. A rebuild kit is a mere $100.

bought a Holset HE351 with 3,000 miles on it off of ebay for ~$200. These things are built to run about 25 psi+ from the factory for turbodiesels. Many ppl are running them on here. They come in the Cummins turbodiesels. Those three models will work but be wary as some of the other ones may not.

Apex and Greddy use the same basic solenoid. I recall threads on AEMpower.com where we were buying them from a pneumatic supplier for about $25 instead of the ~$110 that they were charging at the time. The solenoid works great and has a wide functional duty cycle range.

You didn't post the following: 1. Why you need/want a different motor 2. What the castings are on the motor 3. What you plan to do with the motor 4. The price of that motor

Yeah, I wouldn't do that. Why not use a Holset turbo? HX35 or HY35, etc.?