spork

If the afm isn't reading airflow, your pump will not run. The best thing is to hook the pump up to the sds. Even if there isn't a wire on the box for it, call or email sds. I'm pretty sure that option is already programmed, so all youmay need to do is add a wire to the harness. You are much better off having SDS control it.

are you using the sds to turn the pump on and off? If so, you know, the wire off the em4 box switches ground, not power, right?

Re-use flywheel bolts at your own risk. I know many people re-use them, but I consider them a disposable item. They're not that expensive and you can still get new ones from the nissan dealer. For the few bucks, it's worth knowing they haven't stretched or been weakend some way. Do you really want your flywheel to come loose? It gets ugly real quick!

If you dig out a 2.2 motor, the TIII cars came with forged rods, pistons and so on, and can handle quite a bit of power with just the addition of a big turbo and boost, and of course a good tune.

If you can get one from Arizone zcar, you'll be getting a nice adjustable gear. I run one on my car.

One thing I think may have been missed (or maybe I missed it when reading) was turbo compressor size outlet. I typically try to stay with as close to the size of the compressor outlet as possible, as guys start to run bigger and bigger trubos, the compressor outlet gets bigger as well. The turbo that is sitting in the shop awaiting installation on my car has a 3-3.5" inside diameter of the outlet on the compressor side (if I remember correctly) I'll be running intercooler pipes, and TB to match. Will I be running a TB bigger than my cooler pipes...absolutely not. I very much agree in that guys running larger TBs with nothing done to the intake to help flow are porbably going to get little to nothing short of Throttle response increase when going past the traditional 60mm TB. That in itself has some debate about it, but there is no need to go into that "well hashed" subject.

I'm running a masterpower T-70 turbo on my car. It's another one of those "off brands". I've actually had pretty good luck with it as I'm making around600hp at the crank (going by 1/4mph). There are good things and bad things about this turbo. The first one is, I had to go to turbonetics to get the correct sized exhaust housing otherwise my car would barely be able to spool this turbo. Masterpowers T70 is more like a Turbonetics T66 in comparison of airflow. It uses a small compressor housing in comparison to an actual Turbonetics T70. That said, it has made me some pretty big power numbers and I got it dirt cheap. I think even with the exhaust housing change I still have less that $650-700 into it. I have no experiene with the any of thier other turbos, just the T70, also, I would stay away from Turbocalculator as I had a really bad experience w/ them. I won't lay it out here, but anyone can e-mail me and I'll explain and also reccomend a shop in florida that sells the masterpower stuff at a very reasonable price.

Yasin is right, do some searching and you'll find loads of info. That said, don't buy any parts yet! That T3 turbo you have isn't going to work, and you don't want to buy anything else that isn't either. So grab a cold one and read for a few days, literally. If you have any questions or you've got some specific questions, feel free to e-mail me.

Without knowing the exact nature of the porting and talking to the guy that ported it, it would be hard to decide whether or not it's worth the money. Flow #'s are great, but a monkey can make high flow #'s. Without the trust of the shop that ported it, you don't know if you're getting a well thought out port design, or one that someone just messed around with until he saw high numbers on the bench. I'm in no way implying that this guy doesn't know what he's doing, just that ebay can be filled with junk, so it's best to research it out and talk to the shop that did the work before you commit that kind of money.

I think I'll sit quietly in the corner with my build until it's done...

Tractor enamel is just that...tractor enamel. I've seen some low budget guys do some good things with it, but the problem you'll run into is that it tends to chalk up and fade in a relatively short amount of time if in the sun a lot. It can look really nice if its wet sanded and polished! If you have the money, I suggest going another route tho. You'll be happier in the long run.

Well, I think it's been proven over time that gear oil will hold up in these trannys. It's interesting to see the literature tho. I've always run Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic in mine. Not sure I'm about to try the atf since I've had such good luck with mine and the power levels I'm at. Of course, my T-5 is sitting on the ground next to the car now, and the powerlide is sitting on a jack ready to do some fitting in the bellhousing. Anyways, I'd be curious to hear from some guys that have run atf in the T-5.

Must be. I looked at it earlier but it's not working now.

Try the salvage yards and PAY for the gas cap. How much work and money are you willing to spend to save the few dollars of not buying one off e-bay? After all, driving around looking for gas caps from parts store to parts store costs you something and you seem awfully frustrated over it. I agree that $38 is kinda spendy for a gas cap, but if you can't find one, it's probably worth it.

Upgrade the pump, but forget the regulator. You can a walbro 255 for around $100 last I checked and is a good pump. Some people complain it's a little noisy, but I felt like it was about the same as the stock pump. Until you start going with a stndaone engine management or larger injectors, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator (unless it is failing as well).

My question is what do you consider a high HP build? Don't forget some ARP hardware, a good headgasket and even some different pistons. Also, depending on what "high hp" is, that hybrid turbo probably won't cut the mustard. Tell us your goals, and I we can help guide you a littl;e better.

Buy a new clamp. http://www.holset.co.uk/files/

Money sent for one flange (sorry for the dealy). It's been nuts around here lately. Okay, okay, it's always nuts around here.... Shady280 - not to get too off topic here, but one thing to watch for on a steel intake is....RUST. Believe it or not, the moisture in the air can make it rust on the inside, especially if it sits unused from time to time. If you keep the pcv valve hooked up in the system, there is usually enough oil vapor to combat this problem, but just wanted to give you a heads up.

If you don't mind me asking, how come you didn't match the cutouts to a p90 head? From personal experience, it makes it much harder to make a round tube fit over a big square, weld it, and still have room for bolts than if you're dealing with a closer to stock sized opening. Anyways, I'll paypal you a later today to buy one and see how it works out.

the pics don't work...just red x's for me

I wouldn't suggest going to a larger valve without someone doing the appropriate headwork to go along with it. Also, there is quite a bit that can be done with stock sized intake and exhaust valves. Feel free to PM me and we can discuss it more in depth if you like. We offer complete head porting surfaces and will provide head flow data as well. Just going to larger valves will do you very little good, infact there is a good chance that it will hurt you without the propper unshrouding and port work that needs to go with it.

I won't vote, but you already know where my vote is...lol. The question I really have to ask you is, what kinfd of work have you done to the head? Do you have any flow numbers? As a lot of people don't understand (and I'm not implying anything towards you) is that the intake is just part of the picture. I'd be curious as to how the head is really set up and that can really help determine what you actually need. Thagards setup is a nice intake and if you can find one, is very reasonably priced (or was when he was selling them). One of the benefits of our intake is the options in runner size, length, and just about anything else you can think of. For the high powered turbo cars, we step up the runner size to allow the head to be opened up (as well as the gasket) to allow the head to flow a lot better. With a stock sized runner, you'll only get "X" cfm out of the head. When looking for quite a bit more power than stock, you're going to need a head that flows better and your setup will work much more effeciently. As mentioned before, its the difference of making 400hp @30psi vs. 600hp @30psi. If possible, I suggest finding someone that can either do the head work and the intake at the same time, or atleast is interested in knowing about your head to help suit the intake best for your application. Would I like to see you buy our intake...of course! Ultimately tho, I just want to make sure you get an intake that will work well for your setup. Anyways, if you have any questions, feel free to call or e-mail.

We sell them as well (Lonewolf Performance). You can check out our website http://www.lonewolfperformance.com and check out some of the other products and services we offer as well. Feel free to e-mail or call, all of our contact info is on the site.

I can't find a buton for it either, but I bookmarked in my favorites. Try http://forums.hybridz.org/timeslips.php?