spork

I've run 30psi on my older setup and I've re-used the hks gasket several times. No problems at all. I'm currently back down to 25psi, but haven't had any issues with leaks or anything like that. I also am using the ARP head studs. I clean the gasket and use copper spray, and re-assemble.

Why not have a stock head re-worked? There is quit a bit that can be had from a good port job and upgraded cam.

Then maybe we'll have to have some more clutches made...simple as that.

Sears used to carry Z-racing wheels if I remember correctly. Might check them out.

Good write up, hope someone makes this a sticky!

I'll second the reccomendation of going with a cam from web cams. I've got on in my car and am very pleased. Its not an "off the shelf" cam, so it cost me a little more, but it was well worth it. Pm me if your interested in the specs, and I'll dig them up.

No floor mats in my car...I had one slip and lock the Gas pedal in at full throttle...talk about a ride through town. All I could do is bang the next 2 gears before I got my wits about me and shut her off and coasted to the side to remove the floor mat and hope I hadn't killed the turbo from oil starvation. As far as acceleration goes...I've broken my seat coming off the starting line at the track. Sheard the bolts clean in 2. That was just plain scary. Launching at 6500 with some sticky slocks and all of a sudden, you can't see a thing because your almost laying in the back!

I'd go with the A1000 as well. Its just a good solid pump, no questions about it.

Put me in as an interested party atleast to the point of finding out more details when you get to that point.

My buddy is running 4 1600cc injectors on his 2.2L running through an sds for control and has zero idle issues. They're bosch injectors (not the pintle type). That had me impressed. We figured we were going to have to bump up the idle speed to keep this thing running, but it runs smooth and doesn't load up on fuel. I'll be putting the same stlye injectors on my car when I upgrade.

I run a kit from Devils Own. http://www.alcohol-injection.com/ I'm using a progressive kit similar to what scottie is talking about (just a different brand). And I am running larger quantities than most are since I'm also using the meth for extra fuel. There are plenty of people that make kits, do your research on which ones are good. Price will vary and doesn't always affect quality since most of these kits are made by small companies. If you're interested, I'm a dealer for Devils own and can get you a pretty decent price if you decide to go that route. After you go to meth injection on your car...you'll be slapping yourself asking why you hadn't done it earlier. Works great for a street or track car.

We've had some problems lately with the phone situation and we are working on getting a solution. anyone that can't get through with the number on our website, feel free to call me at home. (785) 820-9563. I'm hard to catch there, but I WILL return your calls since I absolutely will recieve your messages. Once again, sorry for anyone thats had trouble reaching us.

You've rotated the crank by hand and made sure all magnets are seen, right? You've double checked that you have the plug wires hooked up correctly, right? That said, we need more specs on your acar and the settings you have on your programmer if we are to help any more.

Never built a stroker turbo motor, so I can only tell you that its not required to make big power. I used what I had when I built mine and am makin a reasonable amount of power. You really need to weigh the options. Over 500rwhp can be had without going to a stroker, or going bigger than 2.8L How do I know? I've done it. I'd invest my money elsewhere on a turbo car.

go to a well equiped machine/welding shop and they'll probably have one. It'll cost you less to have them do it it than to buy the die. Now if you hvae the habit of screwing up threads from time to time, then it may be worth the investment. Around here it would be a special order item as most people don't use anything that large on a regular basis so no one stocks it.

Actually, I have seen air powered floor jacks before. I honestly don't remember who carries them. I just remember thinking they wanted way too much money for them!

This was a very common problem on some chrysler minivans if they didn't have the proper recall done in a timely manner. You're going to need a welder to repair it if you're wanting your repair to last at all.

Bought my wife a mp3 player from creative...she loves and uses it all the time. It was around $160 as well. Pretty easy to use too, and I definetly like the built in radio option as well. she's had it about a year at this point.

They are also very nice to have out when rebuilding the engine as you're more likely to get the block cleaned up when hot tanking. I've been following both of these threads now as I've been curious as to the outcome. I honestly have to agree with paul on this one. I can't see the block flexing and I think there are more problems going on here than what we can see. I use basically the same procedure described above for installing core plugs and have never had one come out. No staking, straps, or screws. 30 pounds of boost, with a HKS gasket and arp head studs with 600+ hp at the crank...if it was block flex or something like that, I'd imagine I would've run into it at this point. I think there is a good chance the coolant system is getting pressurized here for some reason or another.

Just as long as its a 2 part glazing putty...not that cheesy laquer based putty that you just spread on (which is usually light green that I've seen). If its the kind you spread without mixing it with a hardner...I'd think again about using it. It can cause mountains of nightmares later. Looking good tho! I've done body work for a living for many years and blocking the cars out is the one step I wish I could skip!

It could be a defective/clogged pump. you should have plenty of fuel if the lines are sized properly. I made over 450 at the wheels running 60psi static and then 25 pounds of boost making my fuel pressure 85psi under boost. That was with a Walbro 255hp. This was on an l-series engine, but hp is hp when talking about how much fuel is needed to make it.