spork

any idea on price??? I'm somewhat in the market now...lol

Are they in the clear or color? What you describe kinda sounds like it might be a problem under the basecoat, but I'd have to look at it in person to know for sure.

even the leftover pieces from a major dissaster (assuming they still won the race) would be well worth the price of raffle ticket.

That would explain things a little more...especially the 700hp at the crank...

hmm...700hp That car should be in the low 9's...if it was a fat pig...if not it would be in the 8's assuming the guy could drive. Not that I'm one to talk as I'm only in the 11's with a car that should be in the 10's....lol

well, read the instructions...lol. seriously tho...I can't remember the exact procedure but for the heater calibration you have to revomve the sensor and wait like 20 seconds and then hook it back up and it will atuo re-calibrate...but check the instructions for the exact proceedure. For the free air cal, just have the sensor out of the exhaust and press the calibrate button on the LM1.

try re-calibrating the sensor in free air (take it out of the exhaust). You may need to un hook the senosr and force it to do a heater calibration as well.

100-150 post minimum and a pic of your time slip!

Is the timeslip Database even coming back???

I hate to laugh...but I have to. I've been through this mess before. Burnt up a couple of act clutches, a spec and finally went to Robin at Superior Friction and had him build a custom clutch for me. Tell him you want the clutch I have (James Roraback). I'm making over 450 to the wheels (126mph in the 1/4) and running slicks and its been holding up great. I don't know if it'll hold with more power or not, but I'm gonna find out pretty soon. I've got nice easy engagement and its easy to drive on the street. It does have a heavy pedal tho, but not any worse than the other clutches I've run before.

I had a long talk with a couple of state farm adjusters not that long ago about stated value insurance from thier company. They wanted me to switch my vehicles to them. They said that we could set up a stated value policy on my z, no mileae limitations and so on and it would be $xxx.xx a year. I then asked if the car was totalled in some horrible accident, does that mean I'd receive the "stated value" I'd been insuring the car for. They said "No. It means you will get paid up to that amount, but no garuntee of receiving that amount. We will re-appraise the value of the car after thae wreck and decided what's worth then." You're still stuck deending the value of your car. I'm with hagarty with my Z. My brother went through a similar claim on his '61 caddy. It was insured for stated value through state farm and was hailed on. They totaled the car and gave him $3000.00. He obvioulsy bought it back, but the car was worth about $7-8,000 at the time. He fought for several months (but didn't lawyer up) and finally lost. Just an FYI