spork

well, interesting setup, but I see a problem in the future if you aren't already seeing it right now. On a turbocharged car, most setups with small pumps like you're using use a sealed fluid tank with a pressure line from the manifold into the tank. That way you're not experiencing lower pressures at the nozzles when you get into boost. The pressure line equals out the pressure in the tank and lines and you get the same spray and atomization that you would when the car isn't under boost. The higher boost you run, the more of a problem this will become unless you equalize the pressure. The guys with big pumps like the sureflow units don't have to worry about this as some of the pumps can put out around 200psi. A small washer pump has no chance of doing something like that. Anyways, jut wanted to point this out so you don't run into problems later.

well, I'm not big on Sherwin williams and have used several different lines of thier paints. Infact, one of the companies I worked for was in a very expensive lawsuit against them when I left them for another job. As far as PPG goes, it's good stuff, but so is Dupont. You might check around for Dupont dealers in your area. Thats the only brand I use anymore and am very pleased with the product and the support I've received. As you found out tho, not everyone is willing to help you. Look for a local bodyshop supply store and they are usually more than willing to help you select the correct products for your car. Good luck, you have a lot of work ahead of you, but w/. patience, you'll be pleased with the finished product.

keep the extra weight, your setup should be good for some serious power. If you want to go faster, turn up the boost. You and I are now going to be running very similar setups. The other weekend I ran 125mph traps in the 1/4 and its not tuned or on full boost yet. Using the 1/4 mile calculators that puts an estimated 466rwhp out...and your car will weight less than mine. Now you've got a smaller turbo than mine, but your engine has some good potential. 400rwhp in a 240 is going to be real fun...just don't get into too much trouble!

I've got an 18x6 spearco in my car....it was well worth the money

doesn't matter as far as I can tell. I've mounted one sideways with no ill effects

yup, you'll need the DIS4 for the coil spacer adapters. There is a cheaper option tho. You don't get the added spark strength like the DIS4 gives you, but check out this site. http://68.45.160.205/FMPro?-DB=cart.fp3&-Format=PLaunch.html&-Token=12729856&-RecID=12729856&CustID=PerfectLaunch&-Edit Iwas going to go the same route you were till a local Z32 guy showed me this setup. I talked to the guys at import intellegance quite a bit and everything should work fine with an SDS. I'm still saving up a few bucks, but I'm going to buy mine through them. Luke loves the one he has on his car. It can cut both fuel and spark, but it all depends on how you wire it up if you don't want it to cut fuel (some don't like that part) you don't have to. anyways, just my .02

Thats exactly the way I do it pallnet. Install them in the rail...set them on the manifold and put a little pressure on the rail while twisting each injector. They slide in pretty easy that way.

A 2 step is the way to go. Not only will you get boost while waiting on the line, but it makes it very easy to change your launch RPM and be very consistant at the same time. You launch exactly the same every time. Once you figure out a good rpm to launch at you can repaet it over and over....none of that holding it at around 5500 and launching and then trying 5600 and not really knowing for sure that you didn't launch at 55 or 5700. Without the 2 step, I dump the clutch at 6000 when on slicks and have cut lots of low 1.6's and a 1.5 on slicks. Haven't had good a good chance to try the 2-step at the track yet on this car, but on previous cars it's worked very well.

I know others may have opinions on eagle contrary to mine, but when buying aftermarket forged rods, eagles are on the bottom of the list. Talk to some engine builders in your area and you'll probably hear the same thing....as far as ones available for your engine, I can't help you out on that.

Well, we'd really like to make things right with this intake and simply build another fuel rail. He said there were a few scuffs and such on the intake as well and this will give us a chance to re-powder coat it while we have it and generally do the best we can to take car of him. At this point if things still need to be kept public step by step on the process, I guess we can keep getting updates, but it seems kind of silly. We will fix the intake and ship it back to him ASAP. The only part that sucks for both of us is that shipping time slows things down since he's in Norway. I'm also paying for all shipping costs out of my pocket, so the cost doesn't really matter at this point. Anyways, we are working with him and will get his intake modified so it will work for his application. On a side note...I searched and read over 50 e-mails from him from top to bottom several times now and still can not find anywhere he stated that he was using supra or 11mm injectors, but we're still willing to fix things for him. I'm not going to post all the details here because I don't think it really matters to most of you, but I feel like our business is getting a little beat up over this for no reason, so I wanted to makes sure I stated our side as well.

yup, sounds like it's slipping to me as well. And whether you think so or ot...360ftlbs is quite a bit of torque and you'll want a good clutch (other than the one you have) to hold that kind of power. Stay away from the ACT street disk and pressure plate as well...I literally disinigrated the disk with around 300hp and 300ftlbs of torque. I ended up going with a lcutch from Superior friction (custom designed for my car) and it was right in the price range mentioned above. I do have to say that it took a couple of trys to get it to work lie I wanted, but am very happy with the results. I recently ran 125.8mph traps in the 1/4 which equates to around 466rwhp. It'll hopefully see the dyno fairly soon to verify that on paper

This is taken from a local nissan site where my car was car of the month alittle while back. The car recently ran 12.08 @125mph on street tires and ate a spark plug wire before I got a chance to make a a clean run on slicks. I few tricks were added since this article, but is pretty close to the same except I have a new intake, ported head, and a custom cam from webcams. You can also check out my car in the last issue of SportZ Magazine Specs and Mods: http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/ Cylinder head mods ARIZONA ZCAR - adjustable cam gear CRANE CAMS - valve springs and retainers FERREA - stock sized intake valve w/ 1mm oversized exhaust valves WEB CAMSHAFTS - Custom ground turbo cam HKS - 2mm head gasket LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - race ported and polished P90 head w/ ceramic coated combustion chambers ARP - head studs LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - Powder coated valve cover Engine mods- Forged pistons LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - raceprepped and polished connecting rods ARP - main studs ARP - rod bolts ABSOLUTE AUTOMOTIVE - assembled shortblock MSA - euro single groove crank pulley Intake/exhaust LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - Header w/ ceramic coating (inside and out) JAMES THAGARD - custom intake manifold MASTER POWER - T70 compressor w/ P trim wheel and turbonetics .58 exhaust housing TURBONETICS - Evolution Wastegate TURBO XS - RFL blow-off valve LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - custom intercooler pipes with cold air intake and K&N filter SPEARCO - 1080cfm intercooler (previously owned by Lisa Kubo) LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - 3" mandrel bent ceramic coated stainless downpipe w/ v- band connections. DYNOMAX - 3" race bullit muffler 240sx throttle body LOKAR - Stainless throttle cable LONEWOLF PERFORMANCE - fuel rail 52pph fuel injectors ACCUFAB - Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Stainless fuel lines stainless oil feed line for turbo GREDDY - Profec B boost controller Transmission/ differential- Borg Warner T-5 SUPERIOR FRICTION - custom clutch ARIZONA ZCAR - Lightweight billet steel flywheel SUMMIT RACING - Universal Driveshaft loop 300zx 3.7 LSD Interior VICTORIA BRITISH - Full dash cap MSA - molded Carpet kit Swapped red interior to black interior MSA - Replacement floor pans (due to rust) Digital to Analog Gauge swap with 130mph Speedo PROFORM - shift light ISSPRO - EGT gauge and sender AUTOMETER - Air/fuel ratio gauge, AUTOMETER - 30psi boost gauge VDO - 25psi boost gauge INNOVATE - LM1 wideband/datalogger SONY - tape deck with 10 disc changer in glovebox PILOT - “D†shapped steering wheel Exterior Closin pearl blue IMRON 6000 paint applied by me (Bodyshop manager at MHC Kenworth by day, part owner of Lonewolf Performance by night) Remote mount Engine oil cooler MSA - Aero II body kit with F40 spoiler M&H - drag radials on 6 spoke 14" rims for street fun M&H - Slicks on Centerline 15x9" rims for 1/4 mile track use YOKOHAMA - A550H tires in the front Misc/Other WALBRO - 255hp (high pressure) fuel pump TCI - rollstop/linelock SDS - EM4-6F engine management system with upgraded MSD coil packs GRIFFIN - Aluminum Radiator ZIRGO - 16" electric fan with adjustable thermostat SPEARCO - methanol injection kit NGK - spark plugs ACCEL - 8mm spark plug wires semi-metalic brake pads Notes from James The car ran 12.33 @ 112.86mph on 8-13-04 before the turbo (previously was T3/T4 hybrid), valvetrain/head mods, and manifold upgrades. It also Dynod 345hp and 353ftlbs. at the rear wheels on 19psi of boost. I had boost controller problems on the dyno and couldn’t go any higher at that time. I’m currently running 30psi of boost and have not re-run the car in the 1/4 or on the dyno. I’m aiming for 525-550 when I return to the dyno late this year w/ the current mods. Future upgrades include a 2 step rev limiter from Perfect Launch, swapping out the Methanol injection kit to one with a progressive controller, and a possible direct port nitrous injection system running a 75-125hp shot. Eventually the drivetrain will be transferred out of this street car and into the 240z full drag car that I’m currently building as well.

well, I'm running a zx with the stock style IRS in the back...and I've kept my sway bar (front and back). If it's still used on the street, it's probably a good idea to keep it bolted on. By the way, I've been trapping at 125...the faster you go, the more you want to be able to control your car. I second the motion of building the motor up more before pulling items like the front bar off to save a few lbs and lift the front end up. I'd personally like to keep my front end from coming up too much as you end up catching a lot of air that way. You want weight transfer, but too much movement of the suspension translates to power being used to load/unload the suspension instead of propelling you forward...just my .04 (sorry Jody, I had to one up you on the value of advice...lol)

I looked in my e-mail for an old message but don't seem to be able to find one...If I come up with his address, I'll post it.

They were pullin wheelies at the strip this last weekend when I took my car out. I didn't get a chance to talk to them this time, and probably won't till next year as I'm done racing for the year. I didn't realize thier site was even down...

I run mine open, but my exhaust is loud enough you don't ever hear the wastegate dumping anyway...

If that p90a head hasn't been converted to solid lifters, you're going to want to use the correct cam that came with it. It has different ramps on each lobe to work correctly with the hydraulic lifters.

E-mail sent...there seems to be some confusion on this matter, but we're working to get everything taken care of for him.

A good spearco core will have 1lb or less pressure drop across the core...if you're using something like astarion IC like I was when running my t3, expect about 5lbs or more. They are really restrictive...especially if you're still using the 1 and 7/8 inlet and outlet pipes that they came with factory. I guess you could say my turbo wa probably pushing close to 30psi as I forgot about the pressure drop across the core.

You are seriously over-spinning the turbo. The last 2 T3's I had on my car I turned the exhaust wheel and shaft the prettiest shade of blue. That was at 20-23 psi. I got about 6 months out of each, but I went to the track alot. The problem is the overspinning...you just can't get enough oil to it no matter what when you spin them that hard. I finally went to a hybrid, and then started killing it and went to a T-70...haven't killed it yet...

aluminum retainers can fatigue and break, and I don't reccomend them. Just buy a single retainer. I'm sure you can go to the dealer and purchase them. If not, I'll sell you one. How's the lash pad? was it anywhere to be found? if you need another one, you'll need to measure the thickness of one of the stock ones to makes sure I get you the right size. You never know if they've been changed out. By the way, I bought some lash pads the other day from the dealer and they list around $3...so you might as well just go there and order them. quick and easy, and still pretty cheap.

They're screwing with you if you hadn't caught on by now. There is endless info in the archives...and I do mean endless. Grab several cases of beer and start reading...you're going to be there a long time. The best engine builds tend to be the ones that were well planned and researched.

I've heard good and bad from them. A customer of mine ordered some pistons and hey showed up here without any problems and were very timely. I've personally never ordered from them as I always heard too many bad things about them. Almost all of thier products can be found elsewhere...its up tp you. Maybe someone else has some experiences to share as well.