spork

The holset turbo is becoming a more and more popular unit to run. You can usually find a used one fairly cheap and they can give excellent performance. If anyone wants to buy one new tho, they can be had for under $1000. Try out an hx40....hehehe...it'll work great for a higher powered drag car. If anyone is wondering where you can source them new and at good prices, send me an e-mail. I'm currently setting up Lonewolf as a dealer and they're getting me a good enough deal that I can pass it on to others.

Is there enough room to get the pipe out front of theintercooler and radiator in your application? I like your idea, but would you have to make the shield seal against the hood to get the air to suck up in there, and would you be robbing the appropriate air running across the turbo that helps cool things down?

Are you not able to get the pipe out front? Or is it out front I'm just not understanding exactly which shapes are what.

well, I can't help you with your spool problem except to say, theres something wrong with your car. It shouldn't take that long to spool.

The best thing to do is either call or e-mail them to ask. Last time I read the rules it was 9.99, but thats been a couple of years. Not that it really helps, but for nopi it doesn't matter how fast you go...hopefully NHRA is the same way.

I need a Nissan auto tranny to stay within Nopi's rules for my class. I may be stuck with a manual, but I'd sure like to find a nice strong auto (or atleast one I could build to be nice and strong)

Maybe someone can cime in on this. On a side note, I found the auto tranny weighs around 178 w/o fluid. how about the manual tranny? anyone know?

alright, stupid question...but what about the z32tt auto tranny? I assume the adapter would work the same way? I'm looking for an auto tranny to hold 600+ hp and I think the z32 tranny is a possibility. Either way, I'm interested in the adapter as well...I'll be awaiting updates

I got one (2mm) a few months ago from my local nissan dealer

No pictures...I didn't even think about it when I got around to installing mine. I installed mine and you'll get a good idea of how far they need to go on. if you go too far you'll know it and the seal will pucker just a bit. Pull it back up just a hair and all will be fine. I don't have a lot of miles on my car since the new seals, but have had zero problems as of right now

are you talking turbo cam or n/a? If N/a, check outhis link to zcar.com Where norm12secdualsudude did a write-up. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=155935&t=155906 If you're looking for info on your turbo car...this may not apply.

no, the starter doesn't need to be in place to push start the car, but make sure the positve wires don't ground out and that you still have a good ground from the battery. As far as the flywheel size...they're all the same but I can't give you exact dimensions...maybe someone else can. Also, the starters between autos and manuals are the same, but if I remember correctly, there are different size spacers used between the flywheel/flexplate and the crank and this may be your problem. With the wrong spacing you could very easily experience this problem.

you could also just convert your p90a head to solid lifters. Grab a scrap head from someone and like $36 for thread insert sleeves and you're converted. You will need a different cam as the hydraulic one will not operate properly in a non hydraulic head. The cam lobe ramp profiles are different. If you don't mind me asking, are you still running the stock turbo, and what boost level?

Took me 30 seconds in the chop saw. Cut it off and made a block off plate where the distributor was.

Thats the way it usually is. Go to Turbonetics and ask a price of one of their turbos, then go to a vendor that deals with them. the vendor is almost always cheaper. If vendors can't sell them a little cheaper, why would you ever buy from a vendor, just go direct.

Well, obviously its not my car, but the T64 shouldn't have run out of air. It can put out 65 lbs. per minute which still gives him some room. It sounds like there may be something going on elsewhere as that compressor isn't maxed out at 20-23psi. Whats being used to control boost? I saw he said he was using the 60mm hks wastegate, but is it just using the springs in the wastegate, or is it using a seperate controller? manual or electronic? I guess anything can happen, but that turbo should be able to put out more. Lastly, where is boost pressure being measured at? manifold, compressor housing, IC? Anyways, not trying to get into any kind of arguement, but more curious as to why the turbo seems to be the issue?

I'm running just the single catch can on mine...pulled the other one out when changing headlights last time.

hey, I was looking at your pics...can you tell us more about that flapper in your manifold spacer that helps with spoolup. Is that a custom piece or is it available somewhere? If so where and how does it work? More velocity promotes faster spoolup? does it operate on some sort of boost controlled solenoid that opens it up after a certain psi? It looks very interesting...

I understand the pain of waiting an eternity to make a pass. I went to the track once and made 3 passes in a little over 12hours...talk about a long day! Atleast the car was cooled down between runs...lol

Good numbers man, I'm hoping for similar numbers myself when I make it in to the dyno to actually tune the car. I did I rough tune on the street but it's a little to crazy to get it set up to do anything other than drive. Not too many places you can do 3 or 4th gear pulls and live/stay out of jail to tell the story....especially repeated ones trying to get the car tuned. Have you had a chance to run it down the 1/4 yet in it's current configuration? I ran mine and had serious traction issues on street tires, so you better bolt up the slicks. I managed a few 125mph passes but didn't get the slicks on before the car developed a hickup caused by a bad plug wire. Anyways, I'm suprised you had issues with the electric fan. Mines not a stroker, but I run a Zirgo 16" fan but stock water pump and the car never gets over 175 for normal driving at keeps around 180-190 after and during a run down the track, or even extended fun on the highway. Maybe it was more of an electric water pump issue than the fan itself? Anyways, good luck with the bigger turbo, I wanna see you put out something around 600rwhp...it'll give some of us the motivation needed to keep working on ours when they've been sitting in the garage for months on end! Oh, I did have one question for you, that cam that elgin did for you, was that reground or on a new billet. I talked to Dema (sp?) and he didn't seem like he wanted to give me much for a cam, and it sounds like he set you up with a much more agressive camthan what he was specing me. I ended up going to webcams (per J. Thagards reccomendation) and have been pretty pleased so far, but like I said, I haven't made it to the dyno to actually tune it. I just set the cam up where I thought was best (since its not a standard grind I had no idea where to set it up) and just left it there for now. Dema had said they didn't have access to any new billets anymore and could only do regrinds...and he gave me the impression that a cam like what you have wasn't possible with a regrind, only a new billet. This was about 6-8 months ago. Anyways... GOOD LUCK AND KEEP US UPDATED!

I ran a spring on mine for years. You'll have to experiment with the tension, but I had to use a pretty stiff one to get the desired results. I ran up to 20psi on theis setup on my stock t-3 and had no fade at all at 6000 when I shifted. I used the same method when installing my hybrid running 25psi. i eventually bought a used profec so I could have easy adjustability