spork

um...looks interesting...not sure its worth the price. With the claims that are being made...I would consider that when purchasing something like this that you've never seen. If a guy is willing to tell you bold faced lies, can you trust his fabrication skills? eh...jusy my .02

My experience is any of the cheap cabinets are good with just a little work. Seal them up better and then install a good quality gun...not the one they come with. Do that and you'll be in business.

TonyD, I didn't realize there was much demand for a flange with the older bolt pattern...maybe we'll have to work one up as well.

If you were to call nissan and tell them you want a 2.0 millimeter headgasket out of ther nissan motorsports catalog, then yes you would get a HKS gasket. If you just ask for a head gasket, you'll get a stock head gasket.

Are you trying to limit the amount of "squat"? Some weight transfer is a good thing, but putting the bumper in the dirt isn't. I set up an air bag system on my 280zxt. I took to sleeper bags from a Peterbilt sleeper made some upper mounts and hooked hem to the lower control arms. Works great! I haven't looked at my 240z to see if it would work the same on it as well.

Been there done that. Did you know a weedeater can idle almost all day on a tank of gas... I got away without being stung...but they stayed swarming around the weedeater all day. I finally went out late at tnight to grab it and put it away.

I'm runnning methanol. It may be just a typo, but there is a big difference between ethanol and methanol. As far as the performance goes, I'm already running the meth injection. It takes roughly twice as much methanol as it does regular gas, but it has a much higher octane rating. Many race cars run straight meth (no gas at all). The problem with running it straight is that it is vrey hard on a n engine, it can wash down clyinder walls and dilute the oil and it's pretty corrosive. Since I only run it under boost, I can avoid a lot of those problems. If you're interested in methanol injection more, do some searches over at turbobuick.com, They've got a nitrous, alchy injection forum over there with loads of good info pack into the archive.

I have a very ugly exhaust manifold that I made with nothing other than some weld els and a mig welder. No dyno graphs for horsepaower, but my 131mph trap speeds mean I should be around 600hp at the crank. The long runner exhaust manifolds are cool, but they take up a lot of space, loose a lot of heat, no matter how well they are thermal coated, and can be a "can of worms" so I'm with scottie and Tim on this one. I think I had $150 or so in my manifold, and it shows, but works awesome. If you do some searching, you can find pictures of it. It will soon be replaced by one of much higher quality that I'm building but will still be fairly simple in design. I like to keep the heat in the manifold, rather than transferring it into the engine bay and my intake manifold.

I'm not sure if you're planning on using water injection on an L-series engine or something else. Beware of the straight use of water.. I had been warned about how the particular aluminum alloy used in the L-series heads caused problems when using straight water. It leaches the copper (if memory serves me correct) from the head and will turn it into swiss cheese. I only used water for 1000-1500 or so and only under boost and I pulled the head for something (I can't remember why) and found the runners had pitting in them where they didn't before. I've never heard of this happen to any other tyoe of head other than the ones from the L-series. If you run a mix I was told you should be okay. I'm running straight methanol on my car using a moddified kit from www.devilsownonline.com I've got 6 M5 nozzles plumbed into the runners on my intake and I have my fuel injectors maxed out, so I'm using the methanol as additional fuel to be able to run big boost. It also does a darn good job of lowering intake temps. Once everything is sorted out, I'm going to up the nozzle size and actually start leaning the car out from regular gas and replace it with methanol. As an added benefit, it does keep the combustion chambers and piston tops fairly clean

I just got off the phone with Barry at SDS. Thier tech support is awesome. After talking things over, we found that the map sensor was reading full vaccum and so it wasn't getting any fuel. I found a wire that got pinched inside a harness and eventually grounded out.

well, I've had the car driving for almost 4 years with the SDS so I doubt something like that happened, but I suppose anything is possible...lol. I do have power to all my wires going to the sds while the ignition is on, and also while it's cranking so it should be okay to atleast start. I guess I'll see if I can get ahold of sds later today and see what they say.

SDS is closed till tomorrow due to the canadian holiday,and I've been hoping to get the car working since its been down so long (put a new clutch in). The ecu has power on the appropriate wires, but just won't ground the ground wire to fire the injectors. I really think the injector driver circuit in the ecu just up and died for some reason. The ecu is inside the car and there were no signs of water ever getting on it. I checked real good because I was thinking the same thing. The carpet around it was all dry as well. I'm pretty sure I know it'll need sent in for repairs, but it's the last thing I really want to do, and I sure don't want to send it in to find out there is nothing wrong with it! Hey, jut checked the power wires again. I've got 2 black wires from the white plastic plug that go to ground, then 3 wires (red, white, and black) all 3 wires had power. I tried cranking the engine and it won't start. I test fired the injectors with the fuel pump running to spray fuel into the engine. I then tried starting the car and it started...and stayed running. I let it run for awhile while cleaning up tools, and doing some other misc items. I go back to the car after 10-15minutes, get reasy to pull it out of the driveway and the engine dies suddenly...wtf? No sputtering or anything just quits running like I had grabbed the key and shut it off. I tried cranking, and it didn't even try to fire. So I decided, what the hell, I'll ground the injectors again and see if it'll start after manually putting fuel in again. It started and ran for about 30 seconds and then suddenly stopped. Now I can't get it to start and run again no matter what I do. It'll sputter if I ground an injector, but it won't actually run. I have power to all 3 wires for the injectors on the ecu now when it doesn't run again. I'll pull the ground wires and clean them again just incase...but I'm lost here. It can't be a hot start problem because the car sat all night and wouldn't start until I manually fired the injectors. It got warmed up then quit. Maybe something is causing the circuits to stick when they get hot and I got them to unstick by manually firing the injectors? Is that even possible? Now I'm afraid if I send in my ecu, they'll send it back and say everything is working fine for them.

I've got an em4-6f system and have been trying to trouble shoot the car and I'm stuck. The car won't start. I checked all fuses with a ohm meter, the coils are firing (all 3 coils), and there is 12V present at the injector plugs. The injectors don't fire when cranking tho. I tried a noid light to verify this and I was correct. If I test fire them with a jumper wire they click and work (connect the proper wire to ground). I assume this can't be a hall sensor problem as I'm getting coil fire. What should I check next? I unplugged all the injector harness wires and checked for any sort of corrosion and found none. I don't know if this is worth mentioning or not, but I washed the car about an hour earlier (but not the engine bay). I frove it and stopped for lunch, started the car right up, drove out of the parking lot and then it died right as I pulled out on to the street. Let me know what I need to look for, I'm running out of ideas.

Well, I'll throw in a shameless plug... www.lonewolfperformance.com we do custom manifolds, head/manifold porting, ceramic and thermal coatings, and can get you good deals on cryo treating, machine work and more

Spearco makes one like the first one pictured(18x6x3), and its core is good for something around 700+ hp. you may want to go to 2.75 or 3 inch intercooler pipes as you approx that kind of power tho. Not ure how much power you're really looking to make tho.

Send an e-mail to lonewolfperformance@hotmail.com as we make them as well. O-ring, or barbed fitings, however you like.

yes it is...it's the hks gasket

Personally, I don't like buying from people that you can't see their feedback...and he's made it private...thats enough reason for me to look elsewhere.

I suppose its a shameless plug...but since you asked' date=' we do head porting, ceramic and thermal coatings along with quite a few other things. Feel free to email me if you're interested at lonewolfperformance@hotmail.com Also, you might do some searching about that csr pump. I've heard talk of a couple guys that purchased it and they couldn't keep the car cool anymore and ended up switching back to a traditional water pump. I've never tried one, but just a little heads up. It would be a lot of money to waste if it doesn't work properly, so check it our real good first.

lol...I hope everyone is just taking this all as some friendly discussion, and nothing else.Its just a matter of time before someone builds something lighter, and faster and takes the next spot...it's part of the game. The question is, who will it be?

The best way is to check the cc's after machining and verify they're equal at the same time.

My car is just heavy to start with...darn zx's. Full interior and all that doesn't help much either. I suppose I could strip it down and drop 700 pounds and pick up some time, but it would be lousy on the street!

I've topped out 4th gear (7800rpm)which should be 169. I used the "Z design studio trans. calculator". I wasn't brave enough try 5th gear. The car was a little scary at that speed. The bias ply "dot street tires" made things a little wiggly when not running a lot of air pressure. As far as official proven speed. I've trapped 131mph in the 1/4.