spork

I'm not that excited to see the video...he's only going to move about 2-3 inches as he'll have a broken stub axle...been there done that. You may get a launch or 2 out of it, but it won't last like that. I cut some 1.5's launhing at about 5600rpm, I went closer to 6000 and broke the stub axle. I know they had some abuse on them, but they won't hold up to repeated launches like that. Be sure to bring extra parts to the track...I do. By the way, I'm running an LS r200 from a 300zx

yeah, buy the magazine to see my car!

I ran 30psi through my intake from thagard...never blew a weld...lol

Sorry to hear about the trouble. I do have a couple of questions regarding your car tho. Is it a stock bottom end on that turbo motor? How many miles on the engine? Ever run it at the track. what kind of shape is the paint and interior in? I'm interested in it (gotta convince the wife tho...that gets tricky). If you would, please send pictures to datsun280zxt@sbcglobal.net

the next question is...what gasket are you using? I;ve had teriblle problems getting anything other than the nissan gasket to seal properly. The OEM gasket is far superior and sealing vs felpro or other paper style gaskets

A RRFPR will cause havick when trying to tune a car with a standalone. Like others mentioned, stick with the stock or a regular adjustable fpr if you feel the need since you're not going to be using the oem fuel management

have you check to see if your manifold is flat/straight? I know it might seem to be a silly question, but if it's even a little warped, that could be why you've been having problems keeping it to seal and over torquing the bolts. I've also heard of going to studs all around and not using bolts. Studs can handle more torque before stripping than a bolt will

I'm definetly with John on this one 42...

I'm using the 16" Zirgo electric fan on my 280zxt and there us plenty of room...but I'm guessing you have an earlier z? Or am I wrong? Either way it fits perfect inside the stock shroud for a 280zx

Sadly, even if they would've let you in, you would've been shunned and ignored. I've been there before. Obviously there are people out there that don't completely understand the car hobby...

Contact robin at Superior Friction. He built the clutch for my car as well as the one for Jeff Priddy's car. Both of ours are pushing over your 400whp goal

This is also something that you want to make sure is done correctly. So the cheaper places may not be worth it...just remember it has to do with your safety, so don't skimp.

I'm running an accufab regulator and have zero problems with it. Like most other aftermarket regulators, you can get a rebuild kit if neccissary as well.

Don't get me wrong, The coatings do work as far as temperature drop, but durability is the key, especially when paying big bucks through jet hot.

Sadly, John is correct. In general any of the nicer looking coatings don't stand up near as well as a standard black. My shop does ceramic as well as other thermal coatings and I'll let you in on a little secret. The polished look coating you get is mostly aluminum, which is why it doesn't work well in high heat applications. If it gets too hot, the coating can actually pool up and run off the part. For all of out high performance applications, we use a system that is good up to 2000 degrees because its not worth risking a comeback and a unsatisfied customer. I've used quite a few diffferent "ceramic coatings" over the years, and always go back to the black coating for exhaust components. Tho ours is a gloss black and holds its color for quite some time. Some coatings go gray over time.

On the turbo exhaust manifold, there is a very large area to the left of the collector towards the number #1, #2, #3, #4 cylinders that hangs really low into the path of flowing air. It takes some work, but if you have so long burrs or long stones, you can get in there and really open things up. There is a lot of room for gain here, but takes patience when grinding as it will take awhile to remove the material. Cylinders 1-4 currently only have a small opening to travel through to make it to the collector. Open this up, and you can help flow in the manifold dramaticallyas this is a pretty good sized bottle-neck

Yeah, I've done a couple trucks like yours...the fuel tank is always the first thing to go! We put a newer style stepside bed on one and it looked pretty killer. I'll have to see if I can dig up the pictures of it.

I wouldn't powdercoat the compressor housing, have it thermal coated with the chrome look coating. Bling and functional!

yup, pressed in and out! (cold)

Not trying to get in a flame fest here, but I don't think that anyone was trying to pick on you or what you said, just a simple mis-understanding of the terms used. If a guy says he's going to rebuild/upgrade the rear end of his car...is he doing the differential, or bushings/shocks, springs etc. Its easy to mis-interpret what someone was saying. Now with all the cleared up...lets move on.

Well, try this, jack up the back of your car and place several jack stands underneath. Have a friend handy and have them put the car in gear and engage the drive wheels. Watch your wheels/tires for a possible bent rim. With the car not running, check wheel bearing play and grab all your driveshatf and half shafts and check for play. Honestly, it sounds lke you may have a bent wheel. More than once I've takena set of wheels some place and they balance them and make no mention to me that they're bent...until I approach them about it and ask why they place weights in certain spots that normally shouldn't have weights (like diagonally across from each other). I don't know if that will help or not, but hopefully you can track it down while its on jack stands. Fair warning tho...sounds travel through metal and can really deceive you on which component is actually making the noise.